1996 Park Avenue - No Air Blowing Out Of Vents

[Garfield2]

But, that 7 tube connector??? with the nut off it still seems like there is a holding clip on the outside of the programmer. Would you like a pic of it? By taking off the center nut won't the 7 tube connector just pull off if you keep wiggling it and pulling?

BTW, what other 7mm screw/attachment holds the programmer in (besides the one directly above the multi-pin connector) ?

To take out a programmer is it better to remove the bottom hush panel AND the glove box assembly, inlcuding the 5 screws that hold it onto the fram mounting?

[HotZ28]

The vacuum connector is held on by "ears/latches" on each side. You will need to pop those back while pulling on the connector. Pay particular attention to the "blue" vacuum line. If I remember correctly, that is the one that will be causing your problem. It seems to get blocked for some reason.
Here is a link that may help. Go to the specific section on Buick:
GM Bonneville/Eighty Eight/LeSabre 1986-1999 | Chassis Electrical

[aarcuda]

i have the same problem in my 95 buick. took the vacuum connector off and there is a soft nipple that hisses. I will need to attempt this repair soon. does the programmer come out easy or do I need some yoga contortionists to get to some hidden screws under the dash?

[Garfield2]

Originally Posted by aarcuda

there is a soft nipple that hisses...

My wife said her's just leaked...but cleared up after teething

[imidazol97]

Originally Posted by Garfield2

But, that 7 tube connector??? with the nut off it still seems like there is a holding clip on the outside of the programmer. Would you like a pic of it? By taking off the center nut won't the 7 tube connector just pull off if you keep wiggling it and pulling?

BTW, what other 7mm screw/attachment holds the programmer in (besides the one directly above the multi-pin connector) ?

To take out a programmer is it better to remove the bottom hush panel AND the glove box assembly, inlcuding the 5 screws that hold it onto the fram mounting?

The programmer b ox was held in by a screw at the top and one at the bottom. With the glove box out and the hush panel off, those were easy to get to. Then after the programmer is loose, the lid snaps off and the 7 tube connectr slides in and out of the box; it's held in with slots that fit over the box.

I could take a picture but don't know how to post it here. I think I've got the old programmer box and the connector.

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by aarcuda

i have the same problem in my 95 buick. took the vacuum connector off and there is a soft nipple that hisses. I will need to attempt this repair soon. does the programmer come out easy or do I need some yoga contortionists to get to some hidden screws under the dash?

If you plan to remove the programmer, do not forget to remove the two wire connector on the top, going to the air mix valve. Also, remove the large wiring connector. If I remember correctly, there is a lever on the bottom of the programmer you may need to drop off.

The programmer vacuum connector has a couple of tabs on it that you need to pry back. Once the tabs are clear, just keep wiggling the connector and eventually, it will come out. The connector has a tab inside the box that is hard to describe, however, once your start wiggling, you will see how it is configured, and then you can pull the connector out.

If your restriction or leak seems to be in the connector itself, you would be better off just to cut out and eliminate the connector, then reattach each line using 1/8” id vacuum hose. The connector is not a listed part from GM, so your only choices are; bypass the connector, get a programmer from a salvage yard, or buy a new programmer. Of course, it is much cheaper to bypass it!

The vacuum lines inside the programmer may be a different color from those on the outside. On the programmer side, cut the vacuum lines about 1/2” from the connector. Do the same on the other side, and save the connector for reference to match the hoses to the right colors. Once all vacuum lines are reconnected together, reinstall the programmer and enjoy!

[aarcuda]

ya, i saw the link that showed how to do it and i figured I would connect the plastic tubes inside the box to the plastic tubes on the outside using rubber hose. i bought about 3 feet of it already trying to figure out where my vacuum problem is (couldnt tell if it was a leaky line or a leaky actuator).

BTW, for everyones info, the vacuum resevoir on these cars have a problem where they crack along an edge and leak. My 95's vacuum resevoir leaked so I got another from a junk car. that one didnt leak when I put it on but now, three months later, its leaking from the same place. Im buying a new one today. it must be a common problem since ive had 2 leak. And it leaks more so when its hot out than when its cool. the material must expand and open the crack more or vacuum is more critical when its hot- im not sure- i do know that when it gets up over 85 degrees, my vacumm issues start to show. at 100 degrees outside air, the car just barely makes it up a hill.

[Garfield2]

What about using some of that hi temp silicone gasket sealer like that blue or copper colored stuff and putting a bead right down the side where you are having air leak issues? Looks like it's more a "glueing 2 halves together" issue than anything else. Gasket sealant is silcone, pliable and high temp so should be able to move to expand and contracts according to temps.

[aarcuda]

the tank is two piece but its not leaking from the seam. the sides of the tank )perpendicular to the firewall) flanges out 90 degrees (parallel) to the firewall and its in that crease where thw cracks develop.

The back half of the tank seals to the front half but its not the seam that leaks. You can se small micro crack there if you look closely.

I thought about the silicon but then I said the heck with it, for $25, i'll buy a new on. pn 25553225 if anyone is interested.

[Garfield2]

Where is this tank located?

[aarcuda]

its on the firewall just left of the master cylinder/booster (looking from the front).

if you follow the vacuum line out from behind the intake manifold, it goes thru a oneway check valve and then into the tank. the output of the tank goes to the vacuum controls for the heater/ac.

[MWW]

Originally Posted by digitalsaw

Strange But True
This problem began as sparatic but has gotten worse to the point it happens all the time. What is happening is that I get no air blowing out of the vents on my 96' Park Avenue. I live in Florida where you fry without AC so what happens is the air from the AC comes out of the windshielf defrost vents or the floor but NOT the vents. I have tried it on Automatic and on manual and even when I put it on "Mid" nothing comes out.
Is this a vacuum problem or something more extreme. I would like to get some thoughts before I take it to the dealer so I can be somewhat appraised of the situation.
Thanks for any advice folks.

Most likely the vacuum line separated from the vacuum reservoir. Same exact symptom on my 92, reconnected the vacuum line and all was OK.

[HotZ28]

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