96 chevy blazer overheating

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by jrroyal

the entire cooling system has been overhauled; including heater core replaced 3 times, new radiator, new theromostat 2 times, new water pump, new radiator hose. truck continues to overheat into the red quickly with or without a/c on.
1996 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 4.3 liter (1 owner)

does anyone have suggestions on why or how to fix?
thanks

Any engine miss at start up or white smoke out tail pipe?
If all else fails.
Run a chemical block check test for head gasket leakage or crack head or block.
Most garages can do it for you or you can by the tester 50-100 $ US.
http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?c...on=show_detail
MT

[matt rock]

I just took my car to get looked at, and had the thremo replaced.
Ran smooth for an hour. Now it's getting closer to 260 degrees
every 4-5 minutes, then goes down to 220-235 range, then
back up 4-5 minutes later. And it's leaking coolant now.
I'm not sure how to broach the subject to my mechanic.
I have a lot of respect for him and his hard work. But man,
the problem just got worse. I'm taking it back in to show my
man the new development. I just took it in because I thought
they'd catch something in there while working on it.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by matt rock

I just took my car to get looked at, and had the thremo replaced.
Ran smooth for an hour. Now it's getting closer to 260 degrees
every 4-5 minutes, then goes down to 220-235 range, then
back up 4-5 minutes later. And it's leaking coolant now.
I'm not sure how to broach the subject to my mechanic.
I have a lot of respect for him and his hard work. But man,
the problem just got worse. I'm taking it back in to show my
man the new development. I just took it in because I thought
they'd catch something in there while working on it.

Well ask him to run a head gasket chemical block test on it.
If he has not done it or refuses to do it find someone else that will.
MT

[Hendy11]

I've just started to encounter the overheating issue and it seems to be getting worse as the days go on. I had my rad flushed, changed the cap and the water pump was replaced about a year ago. I also just replaced my heater core (What a nightmare job) It seems to run OK with everyday driving but I have two trailers that I pull, one with a boat and one for work. The boat trailer is relatively ligt so it doesn't ssem to affect things so much but the work trailer weighs in at about 1500# and it doesn't take long for the engine to get good and hot and it won't cool back down. My next step is the clutch fan but I don't even know if it's functioning correctly or not. When I first start the truck up you can hear the fan blowing pretty good for about a minute after I put it in gear and drive which is pretty normal to me after driving it for four years but I guess I'll see. Anybody else found this to work?

[westsider]

The only thing I can suggest is hooking up a scan tool and checking the temp as live data. I believe these vehicles use two separate sensors one as the ECT and the other for the instrument panel gauge. So its possible that the gauge sensor is bad. Hope this helps

[mybigredford]

my 92 s10 blazer just started overheating the same, its overheating im going to change the thermostat but have been reading that it could just be the radiator cap, now i have a leak and a puddle of antifreeze that i have to try and locate, any suggestions?

[Caseybbyb1]

I have a 97 s10 that's over heating I done checked the fan clutch and the water pump I just flushed it and I have the thermostat out but it's still running hot any suggestions

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by Caseybbyb1

I have a 97 s10 that's over heating I done checked the fan clutch and the water pump I just flushed it and I have the thermostat out but it's still running hot any suggestions

How many miles on it?
Does it heat up right away or just on a pull?
OUT and replaced or just out?
After ever thing else check rad air flow and run a head gasket test.

[rhandwor]

Go to Advanced Auto or Auto Zone and get a loaner pressure tester.
Put this on the radiator pump up to around 10 or 12 psi. Look for leaks if any are found repair. Then with the pressure on the system start and run the vehicle if the pressure gauge pulsates it indicates a blown head gasket. Depending on the water you have you may also need a new radiator.