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#16
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: question about internal performance
Quote:
EDIT from vfaq> What is a stroker motor? What is a 'bored' engine? What is meant by a 'bored and stroked' engine? Search for this topic now!A stroker motor is any engine that has been modified to increase its displacement by extending the length of the piston stroke. This involves changing the crankshaft, and possibly the connecting rods and pistons, to increase the maximum combusion chamber size inside the engine. Compression ratios may also be changed, or the design may involve using additional parts to negate this. The net result is usually an engine with significantly more power than the regular engine. A 'bored' engine is an engine that has larger-than-factory pistons installed in it. This involves machining the piston chambers in the block to a larger size, and the installing oversize pistons to match. This again increases the displacement of the engine, and allows the user greater flexibility in choosing their overall compression ratio. The intention, again, is to eke more power from the engine. If both of these methods are used on an engine, the engine is said to be 'bored and stroked'. Since performing one process usually takes a significant amount of labor, many people find that they may as well do both. Also, people who really want the power are likely to really want to do both. Both methods involve modifying the lower half of the engine. The stroker motor is an extreme (and extremely expensive) method of increasing power; it is not a popular mod on DSMs or any other car because of the high initial expense, overall complexity and relatively small margin for error. Those interested should check out the vendors page for vendors who sell stroker motors or kits. One little-known but useful fact for overbore proponents is that Mitsubishi sells factory overbore pistons. 1G owners can purchase 0.25mm, 0.50mm and 1.0mm overbore - 0.50mm and 1.0mm overbore are available in 2G style. Since the pistons are interchangeable between 1G and 2G engines (with accompanying changes in compression ratio), these provide additional options to the engine rebuilder. The best part is price - at the time this page was last updated the cost for the 2G pistons was less than $40 ($US) each. .
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#17
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Re: question about internal performance
i think you really need to read www.vfaq.com
then read it again.
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#18
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Re: question about internal performance
There is no way to make your car fast without doing the basics. dsmtuners.com mod list.
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#19
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Re: question about internal performance
In most cases a bore is done to repair cylinder walls when the pistons sieze inside them. IMO it's a foolish way to spend money if it's not required as it is much more costly then other mods that will increase performance more.
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1993 Eagle Talon ES (4g63NA) 14.6 @ 98 mph (110 octane race fuel) -5 Speed Transmission (From a 4g67) -Stage 2 Crane cams -Ported and polished head -Aggresive valve springs -2.5" Custom made exhaust piping -Custom header -Gutted catalytic converter -Bored 0.5mm -Advanced ignition timing (CAS) aprox. 5 degrees (set @ ~10deg BTDC) -2g valve lifters (Lifter noise returned, now it a true DSM) -K&N w/modified air canister |
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#20
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Re: Re: Re: question about internal performance
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Listen to what people are telling you about not needing internals until you are pushing over 400 hp.
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'92 3000gt SL Zoom Stage 1 Clutch Quote:
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#21
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Re: question about internal performance
And put your FUCKING car in your sig already. At 100+ posts you should have done that a long time ago.
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![]() 1997 Spyder GS-T 5-Speed EVO III 16g, DSMLink, Walboro 190 lph Fuel Pump, FIC 650cc injectors, CoolingMist 150psi Methanol Injection, Greddy EVO 2 Cat Back, 2.5" Extreme DP, 2.5" Extreme Hi-Flow Cat, Injen intake, HyperDrive C1 Street Disk & PP, HyperDrive Lightweight Flywheel, 1g BOV, RRE UICP, Home Depot MBC, AEM UEGO WBO2, Brembo Slotted rotors, Akebono Ceramic Pads |
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