97 3.1 Cooling system Issue........

[richtazz]

I'm still trying to find it too, it may have been over at the Grand Prix forums, I'll check there.

[cadgear]

You'll want to close the screws while the engine is still running. The goal is to seal the system when it is void of air and the coolant is expanded; this allows the cooling system to draw in coolant from the resivoir when it cools down, rather than from the bleed screws (if you left them open).

[bhame]

Originally Posted by richtazz

I'm still trying to find it too, it may have been over at the Grand Prix forums, I'll check there.

No problem: I know how difficult it is to trace my own steps in forums that I've participated for a while too! I appreciate everyone's assistance in helping me understand this procedure better!

[bhame]

Originally Posted by cadgear

You'll want to close the screws while the engine is still running. The goal is to seal the system when it is void of air and the coolant is expanded; this allows the cooling system to draw in coolant from the resivoir when it cools down, rather than from the bleed screws (if you left them open).

Ahhh...that makes sense, yes!

So far I gather that I...
unscrew the two bleed screws
start the engine
wait until coolant is spewing from both bleed screws
screw the bleed screws back in
and that's it?

I assume I'm still missing something because that sounds too 'typical' compared to peoples' comments that the 3100's process differs from 'typical'.

[bhame]

Originally Posted by richtazz

I'm still trying to find it too, it may have been over at the Grand Prix forums, I'll check there.

Hey, I found this: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...=bleed+coolant

Where you say:
"I know you said you bled the system, but these cars can be darn near impossible to bleed. Because of how quickly you're getting steam, it sounds as though you still have air in the system. Here is how I bleed these engines. Jack the front of the car up so that the radiator cap is higher than the engine. Leave the t-stat and housing off, and s-l-o-w-l-y fill through the radiator until coolant comes out the intake where the t-stat should be. Now install the t-stat and housing, and remove the small hose at the transfer tube where hooks to the engine (leaving the rubber hose hooked to the transfer tube). Crack the bleeder at the t-stat housing, and insert a small funnel into the hose on the transfer tube that you disconnected from the engine. Again, s-l-o-w-l-y add coolant through the transfer tube until it comes out the bleeder at the t-stat, then close the bleeder. Continue to add coolant until it comes out the pipe on the engine where the hose you're filling through attaches. Hold your thumb over the pipe, remove your funnel, and quickly re-attach the hose to the engine, doing your best to not let air in or too much coolant to escape. Finish filling the radiator, replace the cap, and fill the coolant reservoir. Start the engine an let it run until it gets warm, (set the heater to hot so coolant circulates through the heater core also). After the engine starts to warm up, crack the bleeder at the t-stat to see if any air/steam escapes. if not, you're done. If it does, keep working the bleeder until no more air escapes. Good Luck!"

Is THIS what you want me to read?

[richtazz]

That's the one I was trying to find. I've used that proceedure on many 3.1's and 3.4's and have had excellent luck doing it that way.

[bhame]

Originally Posted by richtazz

That's the one I was trying to find. I've used that proceedure on many 3.1's and 3.4's and have had excellent luck doing it that way.

Well since I wasn't going to drain/refill I just did the bleed portion.
Where I park at our apartments is on quite a steep-incline as is so I didn't really need to jack up the car.

One thing I noticed is that the bleed valve by the water pump sprays coolant intermittently: and having nothing to do w/the T-Stat opening/shutting - I kept testing the pre/post temps w/an IR thermometer at the coolant housing and it took about 10-15min. before it got up to the upper 180°'s - but until then, for about 5-20 seconds each, the bleed valve by the water pump started spewing coolant. How can that be if the T-stat is shut. There was NO pressure in the hose to the T-Stat...I don't believe it was erroneously-opening/shutting.

Anyways, once the T-stat obviously opened and the coolant spewed, I rescrewed the valves as soon as the T-stat shut. I'll let everyone know if the temps spike again.

Does the T-stat valve (is it truly a valve, looks like a normal bolt to me) need ot be completely-removed? It was so far out I didn't dare unscrew it anymore: SOME coolant dribbled out: should it be spewing as much as the water pump valve did?

[richtazz]

The t-stat valve should spew more than the water pump one. IF it is just trickling, your t-stat may not be opening all the way.

[bhame]

Urgent question: should coolant always be sitting idle by the T-Stat? i.e. - should I be able to open that 'valve', squeeze the hose and coolant pour out?

I just had my T-Stat replaced, my problems are worse than ever, and there is NO coolant in the hose from Rad to T-Stat until engine goes >185°F (or so), and even then the coolant comes through intermittently: spitting out the brass bolt pre-T-Stat.

Is my mechanic screwing me over? I've spent a huge amount of money in this.

[bhame]

Originally Posted by richtazz

The t-stat valve should spew more than the water pump one. IF it is just trickling, your t-stat may not be opening all the way.

I've had two non-mechanics tell me the typical way a cooling system works is that a water pump pulls cooled coolant from radiator, through engine, out thermostat and back into radiator.

If this is true, then I don't see why the T-Stat's bleed valve should spew more coolant than the water pump's bleed valve...wouldn't it be the exact opposite?