mobil 1 oil

[dmbrisket 51]

^from what ive heard and seen, you dont need a flush, its reccomended to do, for competent people we can do it ourselves, but just switchen is not going to hurt anything, like i said b4 there are blended oils, which mix synthetic and patrolium based products

[blazee]

Originally Posted by dmbrisket 51

^from what ive heard and seen, you dont need a flush, its reccomended to do, for competent people we can do it ourselves, but just switchen is not going to hurt anything, like i said b4 there are blended oils, which mix synthetic and patrolium based products

The problem with switching isn't that the synthetic mixes with dino.

The problem is that after using dino for years, your engine gets a lot of crud in it. The synthetic has a far better cleaning ability than standard oil and when it is added to an engine full of dino crud, the synthetic will break the crud loose. The crud not only gets spread around the engine, but it also mixes with the synthetic and doesn't allow it to protect as good as it should.

That is why you should flush when switching.

[whyme]

I'v said it before!!!!! DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CRANKCASE OR GASTANK THAT DOES NOT BELONG THERE.....are you trying to fix a problem????or create one??? just put the oil in and your done!!!...simple eh...

[dmbrisket 51]

well when it is a crank case oil additive, in this case a de gunker, where should i put it? crankcase would be my first suggestion, after reading the directions that told me to first, of corse.

[blazee]

Originally Posted by whyme

I'v said it before!!!!! DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CRANKCASE OR GASTANK THAT DOES NOT BELONG THERE......

What's your point? An engine flush is designed to be added to the crankcase to clean it, what's he putting in that doesn't belong there?

Originally Posted by whyme

just put the oil in and your done!!!...simple eh...

read the post right above yours it tells why you shouldn't just put the oil in.

[hootymo]

thanks guys, you all are awesome. im gonna get the stuff and do it, its official. thanks again you are all great!

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by whyme

I'v said it before!!!!! DO NOT PUT ANYTHING IN YOUR CRANKCASE OR GASTANK THAT DOES NOT BELONG THERE.....are you trying to fix a problem????or create one??? just put the oil in and your done!!!...simple eh...

Doing a crankcase flush everyonce in a while does no harm.

I am currently using Ato-RX for my truck so I can get rid of some of the sludge buildup in my oil system.

[whyme]

I repeat "are you trying to fix or create a problem"what problem is he having that would require an engine flush????dam there are people out there that drive honda's and toyota's for 4hundred thou's plus miles and still know what a engine flush is.

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by whyme

I repeat "are you trying to fix or create a problem"what problem is he having that would require an engine flush????dam there are people out there that drive honda's and toyota's for 4hundred thou's plus miles and still know what a engine flush is.

Does that mean that all engines do not get sludged up and lose power?..... NO

Running a flush through every 100,000 miles is just a way to get rid of any sludge deposits that will start to form and restrict oil flow.

Hell, GM uses them and they make the motors.

[boltswagen]

I don't have that many miles on. It's a 2000 also. Still I am skeptical of any flushes and additives although I've used a few on other cars. I just put in Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter and did it over in a few hundred miles figuring that the syn might clean it up that way. But Synthetic seeps a little on mine. I've noticed oil wet areas and a few drips hanging places that were bone dry with conventional oil. Mostly at the front and back of the engine, not really around the pan. Some people say that's normal. Is that normal for a 5 year old vehicle with some 21,000 miles on it when switching to synthetic?

[BlazerLT]

Not normal at all.

You can't blame oil for engine seal leaks.

[blazee]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Not normal at all.

You can't blame oil for engine seal leaks.

I'm not blaming the oil, but.......... three days after I switched my Blazer to Mobil1 the rear main seal started leaking. Seems like a pretty big coincidence.

[blazee]

Originally Posted by whyme

I repeat "are you trying to fix or create a problem"what problem is he having that would require an engine flush????dam there are people out there that drive honda's and toyota's for 4hundred thou's plus miles and still know what a engine flush is.

You are right there is a risk when flushing an engine, but the risk associated with flushing an engine having less than 100,000 miles is minimal, as long as the directions are followed. The risk does still exist, ultimately it is up to him if he wants to take it or not. A flush is not required when switching to synthetic, but if you do not flush, the synthetic's effectiveness will be limited. He asked for our opinions and most of us agree that the risk is so minimal, it will be worth doing a flush to achieve the maximum potential of the synthetic. The advice we give is nothing that we have not or would not do to our own vehicles.

BTW. You can not compare an honda or toyota engine to an american V6....... get real, man.

[BlazerLT]

Switching to synthetic at that mileage and getting a leak is a sign of a poor seal.

Synthetic will not cause the leak, but will be actually cleaning and sludge around it.

[boltswagen]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Switching to synthetic at that mileage and getting a leak is a sign of a poor seal.

Synthetic will not cause the leak, but will be actually cleaning and sludge around it.

Well then, I say, leave it to GM to make a seal that last 21,000 miles.
I should have bought a Ford.