Loud Lifter Knock/Missing coolant/Intake Manifold Gasket

[BlazerLT]

Can you clarify the question, sounds like both of the situations are identical.

[Rick Norwood]

1) Do I drain the bad oil and add the cleaner along with the cheap oil when the engine is cold, then start the engine?

or

2) Drain the bad oil add the 3 quarts of the cheap oil, start the engine, then add the cleaner after the engine is warmed up?

[BlazerLT]

I would take the engine for a drive with the old oil in it and then park it, drain it and add the cheap oil and flush and idle it for 30-45 minutes.

Remember to install the cheap oil filter for the flush process.

[lou S.]

If you are still losing coolant after all this eee me and I'll tell you how to send a sample of oil and I'll test it for coolant contamination at the lab I manage.

Keeley---where did you go with the codes. Fuel smell counds like cpi along with a host of other things.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

I would take the engine for a drive with the old oil in it and then park it, drain it and add the cheap oil and flush and idle it for 30-45 minutes.

Remember to install the cheap oil filter for the flush process.

Well I got 'er done. I bought the "Gunk" brand engine cleaner and the cheapest 10W-30 oil on the shelf. Drained the bad oil installed a new (Cheap) STP filter and added the cheap oil and flush and ran the engine. The bottle said 5 minutes AT IDLE. I went for a "Little" longer and drained the the system againand dumped a 1/2 qt. of castrol GTX 10W-30 left over from a previous flush. Then filled the system with 5W-30. Well the oil was so clean that I couldn't see it on the dip stick. I'll let you know about the knock in the Morning.

[BlazerLT]

*sigh*

Too bad you can't follow directions.

I SAID 30 MINUTES!

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

*sigh*

Too bad you can't follow directions.

I SAID 30 MINUTES!

But I did follow directions. And thanks to you, I no longer have the loud knock. In fact I used to hear the tappets rattling all the time even before the loud knock started. When I started the engine this morning, it was the quietest start-up I think I've ever had. The Loud knock as well as all the little rattling knocks were gone! And hopefully this will cure the problem, permanently.

I highly recommend this procedure as a regular part of your overall Maintenance program. I wouldn't do it every oil change, but once a year for sure.

Thanks again BlazerLT.

[BlazerLT]

Glad I helped you.

I would only do this procedure maybe every 50,000 miles.

Just make sure you use a good oil and filter and by all means go to synthetic if you never want to have the sludging happening again.

[blazee]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Glad I helped you.

I would only do this procedure maybe every 50,000 miles.

Just make sure you use a good oil and filter and by all means go to synthetic if you never want to have the sludging happening again.

I don't know if it has been available everywhere else or not, but the Wal-mart in my area just started selling a Mobil1 extended life oil guaranteed for 15,000 miles. The parts stores don't carry it yet.

My area is usually behind the times so you guys probably already know about it.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Glad I helped you.

I would only do this procedure maybe every 50,000 miles.

Just make sure you use a good oil and filter and by all means go to synthetic if you never want to have the sludging happening again.

Is there anything special that I should do when switching from Fossil Oil to Synthetic?

Of Course, I know that I have to change the filter, but is the Standard AC Delco PF52 filter still o.k. to use with Synthetic oil or is a special filter required? Pardon my ignorance, but I've never used sythetic oil before.


Thanks again, and BTW the cost of the cheap oil and filter was $7.00 USD and the "Gunk" Flush was $2.50. Well worth the cost.

[lou S.]

That is a very new oil made and marketed by mobil. They have also added other products to their line. Mobil has not disclosed who is going to carry the products but is planning a big promo around the daytona 500 race.

[BlazerLT]

I've heard about it and it sounds like it is good oil but to be completely honest, it won't be worth the money.

You can get 15,000 miles with standard Mobil 1 synthetic most of the time now anyways.

Just remember you will have to replace the oil filter at 7500 miles.

[lou S.]

Nothing special needs to be done when switching. Just change your oil and filter like normal---use a good quality filter (AC Delco) and the syn. oil and you are good to go.

[blazee]

it is the same price as the normal Mobil1

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

Is there anything special that I should do when switching from Fossil Oil to Synthetic?

Of Course, I know that I have to change the filter, but is the Standard AC Delco PF52 filter still o.k. to use with Synthetic oil or is a special filter required? Pardon my ignorance, but I've never used sythetic oil before.


Thanks again, and BTW the cost of the cheap oil and filter was $7.00 USD and the "Gunk" Flush was $2.50. Well worth the cost.

Nope, nothing required.

Next oil change just drop out the old oil and fill up with the synthetic.

I highly recommend Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic if you are in the south.

Also, for the filter, the PF52 will be fine but I would recommend you going to the Fram Extended Guard oil filter.

It is the filter I use and it is good for 7000-8000 miles.

Awesome filter, and I love it.

Here is some research on it here:



http://www.oilfilterstudy.com/fram-xg5.htm

*Disclaimer*- This is the ONLY Fram you should EVER use.