92 Voyager Will Not start

[sleeper2]

Originally Posted by theFREAKnasty82

check the PCM for trouble codes by turning your ignition key on/off three times ending in the off position. Read whatever codes it spits out from the check engine light. If it flashes the "check engine" light twice pauses then flashes another four times, that's a code 24. When you find out what codes you have (if any) let me, I can try to help you. Just a little FYI, if you cam sensor was bad, your fuel pump wouldn't work; cam sensors control fuel syncronization; It's somewhat expensive but the next option could be the ignition control module which is mounted on the engine by the thermostat housing.

ok well i have been reading these forums all day trying to find one that matched my problems..

well this one sorta did. i have a 92 3.3 caravan and i have no fire and no fuel... i am thinking that it might be the ignition control module but not 100% sure i have code 12 and 55 wich it is tellin me that there is nothing wrong so i take it it is the igniton control module

[francisco81]

Did anybody find the issue to this problem yet. I have a 1989 P/V. We tried to groumd the purple wire as indicated on teh Haines book and all we did was fried the SMEC because somke started to come out of it. I am getting a new SMEC and dont what to fried it again. What I did noticed is that there is no power to the dome lights inside and the check engine light doesn't light at all. When we turn the ignition switch on there is gas hitting the Injectors however theres no spark. I opened up all the harkness by the battery and everything seems fine, also checked all the fusible links and they all look good. Is there any way you can bypass anything to get spark again. I am going to continue trying to fix and I promisse that if I find the issue I will make it public right away, however if you find the problem please let me know ASAP to [email protected]

[HiRez_L]

bad crank sensor will give no spark.

[francisco81]

I saw on previous threads that some people already tried to replace all the sensors with no luck, however not all cases are the same. I will give it a tried and advise you all of the out come.

[propay]

I have a 95 caravan 3.0 wont start either changed fuel filter and still no start have codes 12 and 55 no humming from the fuel pump when turn key will check connections and if neccessary replace pump. when i pit quick start in air filter she runs but then cuts off due to no fuel
oh well pump should get here today if only it would get warmer.
MIke

[Cobra_Sam]

Originally Posted by jim620570

I have a 96 grand voyager and it will crank but not fire. I replaced the coil pack. When I checked for spark I had none while the battery was cranking at full charge. As the battery began to run down I started to get a spark and it sounded like it was trying to fire. Any ideas?

Try switching the computer (located next to the battery) go to the junk yard and get one from a 3.3L. They will mark it and if it doesn't work they will take it back because they cannot garrantee used electrical parts. See the latest caravan update in the Forum and you will see what I just went through.

[francisco81]

Hi everyone, I guess that I finally have good news for all the people having issues with Caravans and Voyager tha wont Start. I been one of the ones dealing with issue I am glad to say that I finally found the issue i=on some of the cars. Many of you have tried replacing the Computer, Shut Down Relay, Map Sensor, Crank Sensor (if applicable), and even the fusible links Well I have fixed four of this mini-vans I am going to pass arround some of the things I found wrong.

[francisco81]

Here we go,

First and most important and easy to check is the A/S Relay. This is the auto shutdown relay and you can check this by opening the switch, if you hear this clicking is good. The most common problem is the computer (SMEC) if your van is equiped with the one that have the two conectors you have to make sure you get the right one. Theres is three types of computers that got used during 1988 to 1995 and you have to make sure you got the rigth one.First SBEC have only one conector. The second one have two conectors and you have to make sure that when you replace the computer the are same series. The serial number you will find it on the top of the boax and is a three digit number in bold. If your computer is missing this label you can open the computer and find the number in one label located on the bottom cumputer chip (IC) Also, one of the SBEC have a internal black and red wire connecting ingnition module to the computer and all other models they work separated. One of the comon issues to find when you install the wrong computer is tha you will lose some electricity on other areas of the van. The other issue is the Fuel Injectors Harness, from the four or six pin connector to the connector going to the injectors this are very common to broke and you will not be able to see then since the cracks are behind the tape. One more hint is that if you remove any of the vacumm lines on the left and did not connect them correctly the van will not start.

I hope this was of some help to any of you and if you have further questions I will be more than happy to help you. You can reach me at [email protected] if you would like to talk to me regarding any of this issues leave me your number and I will call you back.

GOOD LUCK!

[Warm_Paw]

I'm posting a reply, albeit years later, because I have the same issue with a 93 Intrepid 3.3
I'm somewhat obsessed with uncovering what is causing my Automatic Shutdown Relay to open and keep my fuel and ignition from energizing until I fix the problem.
The reason your ASD does this is to keep you from firing cylinders when the spark and injectors aren't in sync.
The problem is, finding the problem that is causing the ASD to open the relay.
You hear everyone discuss crank and cam sensors. When you're out of sync, these sensors are to blame but I've changed both. There is something occurring that's keeping these sensors from sending a signal so they offer up codes to the effect they don't work.
I'm also getting codes for O2 sensor and A/C Clutch Relay.
All of these sensors are in working order.
One thing I have noticed, they all share a common ground to the computer that senses whether they are working.
This common ground eventually works it's way to the Trani computer which likes to put me in limp mode when I do have the vehicle running.
My problems originated with me having a cracked thermostat housing which cooked the engine. Injector wires melted to intake and fried the alternator.
Had to replace fuse A in power distribution center.
Splice three injector clips to wires burned on injectors.
Have run the length of the blue black wire which is common ground to all of these sensors. Wiring checks out fine.
What's left?
The Computer has internal ground. Could it be the computer's internal ground?
Have I fried coil so that it's intermittent problem?
The vehicle runs fine on start up (open loop mode), once to temperature the computer now reads closed loop mode which relies on the sensors. That's when I git limp mode, sometimes the tach falls to zero with cruise ligth coming on. Sometimes vehicles just quits.
There are a few things Chrysler have done here that screws a mechanic up.

#1. Multiple devices and sensors run on same circuits, now creates a situation where pin pointing any one electrical circuit is compounded by the amount of devices and circuit.
Then multiple of events occurring is compounded as well.

#2. Whoever programmed codes into computer used reference values of temp and rpm. Unless the fault occurs in the temp or rpm range, a code isn't created when a code should have been.

#3. Sometimes a code is created when the sensor the code refers to is not at fault. The sensor appears to be at fault because some other cause is depriving it of electricity or vacuum.

#4.There aren't codes for certain faults that weren't considered at the time of creating this electrical monster.
The amount of devices ganged on these circuits and the precision demanded for the vehicle not to go into limp mode or shut down were not realistic to the aging of a vehicle and it's wiring. Simple is always effective.

#5. Is there a list of every code the original scanner could produce? If so, where to find this list? The ASD shuts down for all of but twelve codes. What are those twelve codes?
What are the other codes. (Read that in Chrysler spec manual)

I like the 3.3 engine. 250,000 miles and compression still like new. I think it's the 60 degree design.
Now to find way to simplify wiring to just fire ignition and fuel and sensors.
Remove all the courtesy wiring and speed control.

Next vehicle is standard transmission :-)

[plymouthsrock]

Do yourself a favor and get a wiring diagram with a pinout schematic of the ECM, check every power and ground to the ECM. No codes and no MIL ("check engine") indicate hard electrical fault.