Engine Won't Start...STRANDED...need help

[97 silverbullet]

well it turns out after all that trouble the stupid shifter was the whole problem. I was so frustrated and then i couldn't get the shifter to move back when the key was in the start position so i finally got pissed of and jamed it back and then tried to get it working correctly but that didn't work so just hoping that it might turn it over it fired right up and then I realized the stupid shifter wasn't engaging in park therefore it wasn't turning over. so i fixed and now it works fine

[GuMan]

Have someone run the ignition switch for you.
Take a voltage meter and put the negative
lead on the block ground (pretty much
anywhere you can get a clean piece of metal)
and the positive lead on the heavy gauge
wire (+12V) at the starter itself (B+ terminal).

You should see +12V (more like +13.8V) there when
the ignition switch is not active. Have someone
turn the key for you. The voltage there should
drop a little, to around no less than 9.5V or so.
If it drops at all, that means the solenoid is pushing
the contacts for the starter motor and the motor
windings are connected. If this is the case and the
starter still doesn't work, either it is installed
incorrectly or the motor is bound up.

If the +12V does not move at all when you hear the
solenoid click, then the contacts for the starter motor,
that the solenoid activates, are probably no good, or
the motor itself is burnt out.

There is a chart in the shop manual, page 8A-30-4,
that is labeled "Starter Solenoid Clicks; Engine Does Not
Crank or Cranks Slowly" Here are the basic steps the
chart reads out, but it sounds like you have heard
a lot of this.

First, make sure the battery is OK. Have someone
help you and measure the battery voltage at the
battery, then the front junction box (engine compartment-
passenger side front). According to the book, the
voltage needs to stay above 9.5V when attempting
to crack, at all measure points. If it doesn't, check for
bad connections in the +12V and GND lines.

If the battery voltage stays above 9.5V, then measure between
the GND connection of the block to the chassis (passenger side
- engine front) to the battery GND terminal. This will take
some long wires, but since measurng volts takes no current
in the wires, it won't affect the reading. The difference between
the GND at the engine and the GND at the battery needs to be
less than 0.5V. If it is more than 0.5V, then check the GND
cables for a problem. Once they are OK, proceed.

Do the same type of measurement, but between the underhood
junction box +12V and the starter solenoid B+ terminal. Have
someone attempt to crank for 15-seconds. This voltage needs
to be less than 0.5V. Again, if it is too high, then check the
cables and connections involved.

Basically, think about where all the high current is going to
flow when the starter motor is put into the circuit and look
for voltage drops that are too high. The amount of current
involved is a lot, and there will always be voltage drop through
the wires due to their resistance, but the connections at these
locations listed are the primary spots that can effect
the voltage drop a lot.

The solenoid itself can work with lower than 9.5V, but the
starter motor very often will not turn at all at or below 9.5V.

I hope this helps...

GuMan