is this normal

[tacoma man.]

my 350 bearys the needle into 60 pounds while driving and idles at 30 pounds.

[justlearning]

okay no its been doing it really since i got the car almost and i dont think its the pcv valve unless its a vaccum problem because i have already changed that when i bought it...and i just had my oil changed so its not that i use 10w30 quaker state deluxe (i like it because valvoline shit seems all watery to me) and when the engine is cold when i first start it my car idles higher till warm up so my oil pressure is fine...even if my car is just idling at 700 the pressure is fine its just when it warms up and my idle drops to around 500 that its a lil rough and no check engine lights i belive awhile ago i might have gotten an o2 sensor light but not since although i do have the part just havent replaced it yet and my tps sensor also needs replaced according to the ses light although it hasnt been acting up recently

[Waterman1963]

Originally Posted by justlearning

okay no its been doing it really since i got the car almost and i dont think its the pcv valve unless its a vaccum problem because i have already changed that when i bought it...and i just had my oil changed so its not that i use 10w30 quaker state deluxe (i like it because valvoline shit seems all watery to me) and when the engine is cold when i first start it my car idles higher till warm up so my oil pressure is fine...even if my car is just idling at 700 the pressure is fine its just when it warms up and my idle drops to around 500 that its a lil rough and no check engine lights i belive awhile ago i might have gotten an o2 sensor light but not since although i do have the part just havent replaced it yet and my tps sensor also needs replaced according to the ses light although it hasnt been acting up recently

Well John, with what you are saying I guess that your car has quite a few miles on it. 20 psi at idle is still within the specs (I believe 18 psi @ 700rpm)for this car and, like "nvrenough" said, the oil pump is driven by the cam. So when the engine is at operating temp and the rpm's dip below the normal 700 the pump is also being turned slower than normal. Now, the more mileage on the engine, the more wear on all the internal bearings, rods (= more coverage area)and the likelyhood of oil return passages being clogged with sludge. All of these factors affect the oil pressure just as you stated. You might want to try Quaker State High Mileage oil, for engines over 75,000 miles.
Now, to the rough idle. This can actually be tough to pinpoint as well.
Since you already bought the O2 sensor and hopefully the special O2 sensor wrench also (it's worth it's weight in gold), I would install it as soon as possible. The O2 "tells" the ECM how to mix the air/fuel and if it's bugging out it sends the wrong ratios. If the ECM is getting false info from the O2 then the ECM might "think" the Throttle Position Sensor is bad as well. You've spent the money already so go that route first.
Unplug the power cable to the ECM after replacing the O2 sensor for at least 30 seconds. That will clear the memory which says you have or had any problems. If the SES light comes on again, get the code and go from there.
Another cheap (cheap<<<always good) trick to detect possible vacuum/intake/TBI leaks (which, of course, effects idle quality) is to let the engine idle. Carefully spray Carb-Throttle Body cleaner around the intake gaskets, vacuum hoses and the outside of the TBI. One area at a time. A short burst at the rear of the intake, wait for the engine to rev higher. If nothing, move on to the next area, covering all gaskets for the intake and TBI plus all vacuum hoses. If you find a spot that causes the engine to rev higher, mark it and continue until you have all areas covered. Then replace any vac hoses and/or gaskets.
There can always be other components that are causing these problems but before you go the expensive route of replacing ALL of the possible sensors, try the simplest and cheapest meathods first.
Good luck and keep us posted.

[89IROC&RS]

Waterman, very good points, and very in depth, i think ive slacked on this, but welcome to the forum, glad to have someone with your knowledge.

i have two suggestions however on what you said. To clear the codes on the ECM, i would suggest disconnecting the positive battery cable instead of the ECM power supply.

And also, while this is purley opinion, i avoid quaker state like the plague. Their additive is wax, and dunno bout the rest of ya, for some reason the idea of wax in my engine isnt something that sits well with me, but again thats just my view. I recomend switching to a lower viscosity oil, such as 10W-30 if you are currently using 5W-30.

[92rs25th]

When I had my engine flushed , they pulled a bit of gunk out , when I drove off from midas my oil pressure was like Holysh** it was at 80 from start up , idle around 45 and at about 190 F it was around 30+ for Idle.

Now , It's down in the red on idle. I think I will go with one of those Beaver high flo oil pumps . They are suppose to increase oil pressure over stock at idle and higher range. Anything OEM Sucks!!! XD

I ordered one and waiting for it , when I get that I am going to go through my car like a wild fire. Doing both door seals , hatch seal , re align my cowl hood ( Seems to have slipped. ) changing my 700R4 pan to a deep pan and a aftermarket filter / gasket set up. Changing my oil pan to a chrome oil pan with a eurathane seal , the oil pump , new u-joints , new rear end cover. It's going to be a chore...

Anywho back on topic. If the oil pump keeps it above 20 psi for Idle , I will recomend one of those. Just to be on the safer side , don't trust idiot guages. Get some aftermarket ones. Everything stock guage = Off by at least 2 numbers.

For instance : Bought a 2k4 Mazda 6 sedan. Cruising at 40 mph , went by one of those police radar thigs on the side of the road , said I was going 37 mph.

[1992RS]

Originally Posted by 92rs25th

O.o Well , I don't have any of that and I eliminated my PVC valves.

It'sw a PCV valve, not a pvc. pvc is stuff you get at home depot.
Positive Crank case Ventalation.. Sorry thanks.

[92rs25th]

Did I put pvc ? whoops. I meant ABS!!!! Hahaha
Just kidding , no need to get all volitile over it. It was understood either way. Pvc is white crap and pcv is valve. But when some one says pvc for a car , we automatically assume pcv which is a little pos that sits atop of the valve covers. Either way , chill.

[justlearning]

ok ill try those suggestions but no i dont have that tool to change the o2 sensor how much are they and what exactly are they called....and i do use 10w30 oil already i just like how quaker state deluxe is a lil thicker it seems to me valvoline resembles water too much

[92rs25th]

It's called a O2 sensor socket.almost any auto part store will have them and if they don't , they should! Thicker oil will give you more pressure but it's not exactly the best thing for your engine all the time. You need things to renew seals and keep them healthy instead of trying to run 20-50 through it Or is it 5-50 ? I dunno but one of my friends uses the thickest oil he can in his 6 cylinder and I dunno..seems like a power loss.

[1992RS]

I ain't mad, didn't mean to offend you

[Waterman1963]

Originally Posted by 89IROC&RS

Waterman, very good points, and very in depth, i think ive slacked on this, but welcome to the forum, glad to have someone with your knowledge.
i have two suggestions however on what you said. To clear the codes on the ECM, i would suggest disconnecting the positive battery cable instead of the ECM power supply.
And also, while this is purley opinion, i avoid quaker state like the plague. Their additive is wax, and dunno bout the rest of ya, for some reason the idea of wax in my engine isnt something that sits well with me, but again thats just my view. I recomend switching to a lower viscosity oil, such as 10W-30 if you are currently using 5W-30.

Thanx for the welcome Erik. I like the forum pretty much. I'll learn a lot here as well.

Now a word from Mr. Chemist a.k.a. Mr. S.M Artass
Is Quaker State grinding candles up and mixing them into the oil?
What you call “wax” is nothing more than Paraffin oil (used to make wax).
Paraffin, like ALL motor oils, is a distillate from crude oil. Household Mineral Oil that people ingest and use as a body lubricant, is paraffin oil. It's odorless and tasteless. Used in wax candles because it burns clean. Used in motor oils because of the same and it’s lubricating qualities.
Class dismissed. Have a nice day.
Oh, wait!
I recommended Quaker State because that was his preference.
I won't debate on taste or preferences. Everyone has their own.
As far as which power source to disconnect, to erase the ECM memory: Your choice of disconnecting the battery cable is by far the easiest, due to location. I always prefer the ECM’s cable because you don’t have to reprogram the stereo’s clock and programmed radio station’s. There might be some risk of arcing at the ECM’s pod and causing a “flash”. Deleting all stored info on the module but I have never heard of that happening. Removing the power at the battery is definitely ok with me.
Thanx again for the positive words, Tony