1991 Cavalier 2.2L - Rough idle, unresponsive accel. starting from full stop. - Page 2

salesmunn · #16 12-10-2004, 11:25 AM

So I spent an entire day at the dealership and the car didn't stall on them once. They couldn't reproduce the problem and the car didn't show any codes.

Hoping this would help, they unplugged a cable that was linked to a solenoid in my transmission. They said I should drive the car for a week with that disconnected and that if the problem stops, the solenoid needs to be replaced.

The very next day it continued to stall out on me when it's sitting still or running without my foot on the gas, just as before.

My oil pressure gauge has always been finnicky on the car, even before I started having trouble. It would float up and down when my foot was on the gas. If the car is sitting still and has warmed up, the gauge runs to the bottom and the "Check Gauges" light comes on. When I brought this gauge up to the dealer months ago, they said it was nothing more than a bad guage. The car now sputters when that gauge hits the bottom, I'm thinking the dealer was wrong.

I ran STP fuel injector/carburator cleaner through the new tank of gas this morning, I also use 89 octane instead of the cheaper stuff. No immediate improvement but I'll see how it is on the way home from work.

godenm · #17 12-10-2004, 02:10 PM

dude, im telling you its probly the IAC valve,did you try that? its causing your engine to idle too low & thats why your oil press is dropping its probly only carrying abou 2-3 psi @ around 4-500 rpm which is throwing the check gauges light.try cleaning it (hell its only like a buck for a can of carb cleaner)

4dr92cavi4cyl · #18 12-10-2004, 03:56 PM

PROBABLY! Mine would idle but was unresponsive on accel., cleaned the IAC and no more probs.

salesmunn · #19 12-14-2004, 09:15 AM

After driving for over a week without my Tranny Solenoid connected, I've pretty much ruled that out. I spoke with my local service station again (once again, he drove it around the parking lot and it didn't stall out on him) and he said,

"I know what it is, it's da switch for the transmission solenoid."

I then informed him that the Solenoid has been disconnected for a week. He told me to go home, reconnect it when the car was hot then disconnect it in the morning when the car is cold. He said sometimes the switch can stay open if it's disconnected when the car is hot?

As I expected, it didn't make a difference.

Quote:

Originally Posted by godenm

dude, im telling you its probly the IAC valve,did you try that? its causing your engine to idle too low & thats why your oil press is dropping its probly only carrying abou 2-3 psi @ around 4-500 rpm which is throwing the check gauges light.try cleaning it (hell its only like a buck for a can of carb cleaner)

Okay, I'll try to clean the IAC valve. I see your earlier post (below) but it doesn't really describe where the IAC valve is. Can you give me an idea of where I can find that valve and how I remove it/clean it including the tools needed?

My hands-on experience doesn't go much farther than doing my own oil change although I have a basic understanding of the visible parts of an engine and can point them out. (6 years Chevy sales management)

Quote:

Originally Posted by godenm

sounds like IAC valve,they get stuck and cant move from all the carbon build-up.take it off (2-screws) spray carb/choke cleaner on it and wipe off with a rag (being careful not to push pindle in) repeat a few times,then spray some into hole where it goes,probly have to do it afew times.i would not try adjusting idle,that would just lead to more problems.

4dr92cavi4cyl · #20 12-14-2004, 11:08 AM

It's right in the middle of the upper intake madifold/throttle body, on the back. It's black and round and has two screws (star heads) and a wire harness. It comes straight out from the back. Make sure not to push in the pindle on the IAC and don't forget to clean out the hole on the manifold.

godenm · #21 12-14-2004, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4dr92cavi4cyl

It's right in the middle of the upper intake madifold/throttle body, on the back. It's black and round and has two screws (star heads) and a wire harness. It comes straight out from the back. Make sure not to push in the pindle on the IAC and don't forget to clean out the hole on the manifold.

yeah,on the 2.2,the throttlebody is right on top,back towards the firewall;just follow the black tube from the airbox to the throttlebody;now on the opposite side of the throttlebody there is a silver/black round piece w/a 3-wire plug -plugged into it(thats yur IAC sensor),take the plug off,unscrew the 2-star screws out,& pull out the sensor (becarefull not to drop rubber o-ring from sensor).when reinstalling the sensor put a light film of oil on o-ring to make it slide in easier. ...this really is an easy job,& dont worry you cant screw anything up,even if you do accidently push the pindle in a little,the computer will reset it after a few minutes:good luck,this should cure yur problem,im sure

salesmunn · #22 12-15-2004, 03:11 PM

I opened the hood and found the IAC Valve last night. Unfortunately I lack the tools and daylight to work on this car. My plan was to go out and buy the tool needed to unscrew that Valve and work on it Saturday.

It was 20 degrees here in NY this morning the car was running the worst it every has. I could barely get up the block with it. I brought it straight to the dealership and rented a car.

After looking at it all day, the car hasn't given them any codes. They do admit the car "is running like shit" but they aren't sure why. (They don't have any books that go back as far as 1991) The mechanic working on the car has seen Fuel Pumps cause this problem before and said it might be worth a shot.

The job will cost $300 and the part must be ordered.

I insisted they take out the IAC Valve and clean it/check it to make sure it's functioning properly then if that doesn't work, to order the fuel pump. We'll see how it turns out.

I have access to their back shop after hours, I should buy the F'ing tool and go in there to check it myself!

salesmunn · #23 12-17-2004, 01:44 PM

Well they checked the IAC Valve and it was clean. The wiring to the valve was aok as well.

They replaced the fuel pump and that didn't solve the problem either. I'm going to pick it up later, hopefully I can make it home.

darrell088 · #24 01-06-2005, 03:20 AM

you need tps

noshun · #25 01-07-2005, 06:44 PM

The solenoid is just the lock-out on the Torque converter which saves gas on the highway but it should have even come on in traffic! You definitely have low fuel pressure or an ignition proble. Try cleaning all of the connections at the starte motor with sandpaper. Also how old is the O2 sensor if it's shot it may be sending a bad signal to the ECU causing it to lean out and you will lose power!

panamaparrothead · #26 01-13-2005, 04:38 PM

i have a 97 2.2 cav and mine is doing the same thing. i have replaced the plugs, plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, and the throttle position sensor. Later i took it to a shop and they cleaned out my throttle body and it was pretty gummy with sticky soot looking stuff. the car ran better but still the stalling and the sputtering after warmed up and now it just stalls. i wish i had found this forum sooner. now i am going to try to clean the iac. if that doesnt work im going to replace the coil packs as my cav has like 150,000 miles

salesmunn · #27 03-03-2005, 01:45 PM

In case anyone wondered, a few weeks ago my car was sucking coolant and started to overheat on the way to work.

I brought it to the shop and they said that my radiator was rotted out at one side and leaking badly. I had them put a brand new radiator in the car and now it runs beautifully, hasn't stalled once on me.

The car still vibrates a bit at idle, but that could just be bad engine mounts.

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD