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Old 10-18-2004, 09:00 PM   #16
Kven
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Re: Help with waterlogged engine

well this isnt cast iron, but its ductile iron. my cousin had his b18c5 resleeved with that material. there is no teflon on the cylinder walls at all, pure iron(infact, i think the honda h22 engine has to be bored or honed before you can use aftermarket pistons because of the teflon). also there is no film of oil because it gets scraped up by the oil control ring.
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Old 10-18-2004, 11:38 PM   #17
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Re: Help with waterlogged engine

I don't think I've ever heard of a cast iron block siezing from being let sit for that short of time. When I built a monte carlo I used an 010 small block which is a cast iron block. I blew the rear end in it. I drove my mazda for about a year. Finally switched out my rear end, put a gallon of premium in it, drove it to the gas station, filled up, ran the next 60k miles fine...

But I would like to see cases of this happening.

Kven, I couldn't resist your signature. "Advanced Timing" Ok, at least you did something other than a NOS sticker. But distributor, what about it, most cars have one? and the oil you use? giving ya a hard time!
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Old 10-19-2004, 01:05 AM   #18
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Re: Help with waterlogged engine

i just wanted to hit the signature limit if i had more room i wouldve added replaced pcv valve, painted rims black, sprayed fabreeze in my car, waxed my car, washed it with some sort of green soap with carnauba wax in it, inflated tires to 40psi, tire shine, washed my seat covers with tide, umm should i go on? o yea i had a small AutoMeter stick on my stock tach thats in the cluster im such a ricer lol.(btw, i dont even have a autometer tach)

o yea timing is about 22 degrees advanced(stock is 16), distributor is OEM replacement, but i painted it blue (but didnt have room to put that in sig).
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Old 10-19-2004, 02:04 AM   #19
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Re: Help with waterlogged engine

I saw a post once in car domain, guy had a nissan sentra, under performance mods it said "Nismo Radiator Cap"... he was dead serious too
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Old 10-19-2004, 04:53 AM   #20
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Thanks for all the great advice guys. I'm pretty sure the rods are bent. My gf's dad tried to start the car 4 or 5 times before he listened to me and stopped trying. I told him not to bother trying to start it, but he's old and stubborn and wanted to see for himself. Oh well, its not my car.
They had it towed to the dealership, but I'll post here later to let you guys know just how bad the damage was and how much it cost to repair it.
Again, thanks for all the help.
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:12 AM   #21
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Re: Help with waterlogged engine

Ouch, that sucks. I've had several friends hydrolock their motors by going through puddles including a neon R/T. I didn't immediately kill the motor, but he ended up putting the rod through the side of the motor about 4k miles later on an engine with 70k miles.
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Old 10-19-2004, 05:35 PM   #22
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Re: Re: Help with waterlogged engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kven
well this isnt cast iron, but its ductile iron. my cousin had his b18c5 resleeved with that material. there is no teflon on the cylinder walls at all, pure iron(infact, i think the honda h22 engine has to be bored or honed before you can use aftermarket pistons because of the teflon). also there is no film of oil because it gets scraped up by the oil control ring.
there will be a film of oil if you put the oil above the ring..there fore it seals the oil above the ring...and i wasnt aware that there was teflon on cylender walls. i know the smoothish ruff material that coats the outside of blocks is kevlar/teflon. i wonder how they keep the teflon on the cylender walls...
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Old 10-19-2004, 06:34 PM   #23
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Re: Help with waterlogged engine

not all blocks have teflon. i was talking about the h22 honda block. as far as how teflon stays on the cylinder, i dont know.
what would be the point of putting oil in a hydrolocked engine anyways? if theres water in there, the oil will float on top of the water. so before the oil can seal off any gaps or leaks around the piston, water would have to be forced through the rings and into the crankcase. if you have to put oil in the cylinder to help the rings seal, you might as well open the engine up and replace the rings, because if you are losing compression they are bad anyways. while the engine is open you can check for any other damages and replace parts accordingly.
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Old 10-19-2004, 08:21 PM   #24
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Re: Help with waterlogged engine

I have waterlogged a few engines. As Random suggests, even if you do get the engine running, its likely there is internal damage. An engine can run for many miles with a bent connector rod, but the piston will eventially become scored, worn and start to slap.
IMHO get the engine professionally inspected and rebuilt. It's possible to make an insurance claim NOW to cover all the damage, but the insurance will NOT pay for a rebuilt engine in 2 months, even if the damage is already done.
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:04 PM   #25
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Don't listen to any of these silly Know it alls!!!!!!!!!

Heres what you do.

Get one of those giant car rotisseries like you see on them fancy restoration telvision shows. Now get yourself some high grade wood screws to hold your car to the rotisserie and and drill em into the bumper. Now before you flip the car over, take out your spark plugs, that way you don't get shit all over ya trying to do it when the car is upside down. once you've gotten to this point, have a beer or two. Now get on top of the car and start jumpin up and down to help shake alll that water out of yer engine. Repeat as nescesarry son, I drive my 1987 Lincoln Towncar through the creek between my house and the road every day on the way to work. I have to do this every once in a while when the water is high. As far as that crap everybody else is talkin about, I ain't never heard of no rods bendin'.
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