93 Grand Cherokee Startup Issues

[Dale Aeppli]

Originally Posted by djeep

Hey Everyone.
I'm new to this site and have been reviewing different threads for the past hour or so...and decided to join and kick-in my 2 cents!
I'm convinced that a bunch of these similar threads have to do with a power drain and random alarm problems. My 94 GC 5.2L started giving me issues last winter and they went away all summer. Now that we've returned to the cold (I live in Northern Ontario) they're back!
Twice this month I've gone out in the morning to a dead vehicle. Yesterday was the latest...I was able to hook it up to a spare battery. As soon as this is done the alarm system triggers. I try to disarm this by turning the key in the passenger door and it appears to work. However, when you attemp to start it the beast will fire and then stall. It needs repeated coaxing to keep going and idle and then it ran rough. This is probably the 6-7th time something like this has happened (only in the winter!). In the past it usually takes several days before the throttle response returns to normal.
I also can't lock the doors and then unlock them with the driver's door; this always sets off the SOB alarm. Recently, my tailgate lock stopped working properly. I can lock and unlock it with the power locks from either door arm but can't do it with my key.
Everytime I have to disconnect the battery to do any work the hard starting and rough running thing returns to make the next couple of days a real treat.
Yesterday I had it back in the shop and my mechanic said that the battery was holding charge and that there didn't seem to be a drain...
I've also seen, however, the symptom described elsewhere with the voltmeter dropping significantly when at lower engine reves, almost as if the alternator is bad (I don't think mine is, as this is the second alternator I've seen this with). The voltage drop on the meter isn't always consistent, either.
I wish someone could help with these issues. I love this vehicle when it's working and am almost ready to give up hope. I put a new fuel pump in it recently because that's what the dealer said ...I'm $600 poorer and no further ahead!
Any ideas would be great and I will post any ideas or solutions that are offered by my new service shop (no more dealer!!)
Thanks,
Derek.

CHECK OUT YOUR GROUNDS , BATTERY TO ENGINE , THE SHORT WIRE GOING FROM BATTERY GROUND CABLE TO THE BODY, tHIS IS THS SHORT WIRE OFF BATTERY GROUND ALSO CHECK THE TERMINALS ON THE END OF GROUND WIRES. CHECK THE WIRING BOOTS THAT GO INTO THE DOORS FOR YOU DOOR LOCKS, THER MAYBE A WIRE THAT IS SHORTING OUT. HOPE THIS HELPS DALE [email protected]

[oglalaed]

I am sorry, but I am unable to assist you in your time of need. I live in So. Cal. (The OC specifically) and really don't have to deal with any type of cold related issues.

I do know a few things about electrical stuff. Very rarely does something electrical fix itself. If it is going bad then whatever the symptoms are will only get worse and eventually fail completely. the only exceptions are components that are dependant on wires to make them work. If a component has a loose connection or a broken wire, then it will seem to be ok and then fail on occasion.

If your altenator is bad it will create at least 12.5 volts while it is running and should never drop below that. You can easily see this with a multimeter, black probe on - and red on +. Your vehicle is using the power mostly to keep the car running, but a portion of that is helping to recharge the battery because you just used it to start your car, hence the voltage that is greater than 12 volts.

I am only poking in the dark with this, but maybe you have water in your gas tank and it is freezing and clogging up your fuel system? Just a thought, but not sure if that is possible or not.

I have installed an after market keyless entry on another car and there was some issues with the way the car was wired that made it only lock some of the doors. Luckily the manufacturer of the alarm had the fix. It was just a matter of where I connected the output of the 'brain' to the door lock actuators. It was a little complicated and would easily be baffling for most. Most mechanics hate dealing with electrical issues and so i would like to warn you that you may be having to deal with that for a while, unless you can get some answers from this site.

Good luck,

Big E

[oglalaed]

That's right, I just spent another $40 on my shotgun approach to troubleshooting my starting problem. I just installed a new ignition coil. When it starts now it really fires up quickly. I mean after I let turn over for a few seconds anyway. It almost always starts up right after i let it turn over first then turn it off and try to start again.

No change basically! I am going to replace the fuel regualtor next. $69 at Autozone in So. Cal. It help to ease the hurt when I space the 'payments' out a little. I do have plenty of spare parts now though. I am defintely leaning in the fuel delivery sytem at this point. I had replaced the pump and filter already and decided to go in another direction, but am now thinking I should have stuck with it. I may have mentioned this before, but I can hear my fuel pump function before I turn over the engine. I was told that I should try and let it sit first then crank it, no help, but I can hear it start again as I am cranking the engine. Does that sound normal? You would think it is supposed to do that. Anway, I hope this helps someone.

Good luck!

[dksob81]

Originally Posted by oglalaed

That's right, I just spent another $40 on my shotgun approach to troubleshooting my starting problem. I just installed a new ignition coil. When it starts now it really fires up quickly. I mean after I let turn over for a few seconds anyway. It almost always starts up right after i let it turn over first then turn it off and try to start again.

No change basically! I am going to replace the fuel regualtor next. $69 at Autozone in So. Cal. It help to ease the hurt when I space the 'payments' out a little. I do have plenty of spare parts now though. I am defintely leaning in the fuel delivery sytem at this point. I had replaced the pump and filter already and decided to go in another direction, but am now thinking I should have stuck with it. I may have mentioned this before, but I can hear my fuel pump function before I turn over the engine. I was told that I should try and let it sit first then crank it, no help, but I can hear it start again as I am cranking the engine. Does that sound normal? You would think it is supposed to do that. Anway, I hope this helps someone.

Good luck!

I don't thinks it's a fuel problem but check this, turn the key to the ON position and and wait like 5 seconds, then do it again (this will prime the fuel lines) then try to start the jeep if it still doesn't start then it's not a fuel problem.

look more toward the CamShaft position Sensor (under the distributor cap) this has a magnet that gets dislodged and sometimes causes this problem.

[Dale Aeppli]

Originally Posted by oglalaed

That's right, I just spent another $40 on my shotgun approach to troubleshooting my starting problem. I just installed a new ignition coil. When it starts now it really fires up quickly. I mean after I let turn over for a few seconds anyway. It almost always starts up right after i let it turn over first then turn it off and try to start again.

No change basically! I am going to replace the fuel regualtor next. $69 at Autozone in So. Cal. It help to ease the hurt when I space the 'payments' out a little. I do have plenty of spare parts now though. I am defintely leaning in the fuel delivery sytem at this point. I had replaced the pump and filter already and decided to go in another direction, but am now thinking I should have stuck with it. I may have mentioned this before, but I can hear my fuel pump function before I turn over the engine. I was told that I should try and let it sit first then crank it, no help, but I can hear it start again as I am cranking the engine. Does that sound normal? You would think it is supposed to do that. Anway, I hope this helps someone.

Good luck!

THE FUEL PUMP RELAY WILL CLICK WHEN YOU TURN KEY ON. IF YOU DON'T CRANK ENGINE FUEL PUMP RELAY WILL NOT CLICK, ONLY IF THE ENGINE IS CRANKED. GIVE IT A SHOT OF THROTTLEBODY CLEANER IF IT STARTS AND RUNS TILL CLEANER IS BURNT YOU HAVE A FUEL PROBLEM. IF IT STARTS AT ALL THE CAMSHAFT SENSOR ISN'T
BAD. CAM SENSOR GOES BAD IT WILL NOT START AT ALL TILL IT'S CHANGED. DALE [email protected]

[viennatech]

My jeep also took a long time to start IF i jump in and then turn the key three clicks directly to start, the starter engages and the engine turns over for many revolutions then finally it starts. Now i've changed my procedure and it starts immediately EVERYtime.

Jump in, turn the key to "ON" not Start. Listen to fuel pump or simply count to 5, now turn key to start, instant startup!

Sure there is probably something that's broken that requires this start method but so long as this works i'll do it, and it's free!

[dksob81]

viennatech - ok well the problems seems to be the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator, bleeding the pressure back to the tank, not holding the pressure in the lines.

[viennatech]

Yes quite likely, this is why you need to wait for it to pressurize on each startup before cranking.

Yes you could spend $2-300 on it to "fix" it or you can just modify your starting behaviour slightly for free. (i choose the latter)

Imagine that the fuel pump needs to compete with the starter for current at a critical time, if you delay the crank by a few seconds this allows the fuel pump time to pressurize then starting is a breeze.

If you do solve it with parts please let us know, maybe your investment in solving this problem can save others $$ in the future as this seems to be a common issue with these vehicles.

[Lvtrucks2000]

I have a 98 Limited that I am working on for a customer of mine and I think it is the timing Chain. When I hit the throtle vigoriosly I can hear a slight chatter and not from the top of the engine. I think what happes is there is slop between the gears and it causes a hard start.

[YtseJam454]

You are all barking up the wrong tree. Your problem is not fuel pressure. Simply installing a gauge on the fuel rail should show you that. Now...You can also check injector pulse with a noid light to verify the pcm is seeing cam and crank sync. With that all you have left is spark. But it's just a long crank correct? Well Jeep offered up in 94 an updated ignition coil and harness. You should be able to just replace the coil of this is where your diagnostic points to to remedy the problem. The jumper harness is discontinued and you will only find them in new old stock. Good luck

[lukbanc]

I have a 94JGC and it starts but immediately shuts itself off. Can anyone help?

[89ltd]

I have an 89 with 4.0 and a lot of people have told me hear that the long cranking time in normal with these engines and there is nothing I can do. I don't eccept that. When these rigs were new they started up fine so something must be wrong somewhere, I have replaced everything under the sun including the crank and sync sensor in the dist. Nothing has helped so far. I put my spark tester on from the coil wire and spark is there right away!!! My fuel pressure is perfect, what elsel could it be. Maybe the injecters leaking????

[89ltd]

I think the injectors are not opening right away like they should. I guess I need a noid light to test when the injectors start to open, as I have spark as soon as I turn the key. So, If the injectors are delayed , what would cause this, I know the dist helps with this but I just replaced the pickup coil. The guy who opened this thread had his computer replaced for $6oo and it didn't help, maybe the ign module?? Lukbanc, your problem doesn't have any place in this thread. You should open a new thread and if its a 4.ol, open one in the cherokee as well, I'm sure you will get plenty of help.

[YtseJam454]

Originally Posted by 89ltd

I think the injectors are not opening right away like they should. I guess I need a noid light to test when the injectors start to open, as I have spark as soon as I turn the key. So, If the injectors are delayed , what would cause this, I know the dist helps with this but I just replaced the pickup coil. The guy who opened this thread had his computer replaced for $6oo and it didn't help, maybe the ign module?? Lukbanc, your problem doesn't have any place in this thread. You should open a new thread and if its a 4.ol, open one in the cherokee as well, I'm sure you will get plenty of help.

No one believes me about the ignition coil? lol

[89ltd]

we all have spark as soon as the key is turned, why would you suspect the ign coil??