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| Engineering/ Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works? |
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#16
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im still nervous, i have 210,000 mi on my car and its a 93 and has been using mineral oil the whole time...i think, i should probably check the old receiepts (i jsut bought this car)
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#17
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From here: http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/engineoil_bible.html
If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. I learned this lesson the hard way! It's wise to use a flushing oil first. If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration. Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of sythetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurance, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless. |
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#18
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Quote:
Need a car first silly
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#19
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I use Mobil 1 in my teg, and have never had any problems
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