ABS, TRAC, & Check tire pressure lights on??

[richtazz]

what engine do you have in your Grand Prix? IF it's a 3.1, on the driver's side, it's the oil pump drive shaft seal. There is a stub shaft where the distributor used to be that is still used to operate the oil pump. It is in the center of the V on the drivers side top of the block. You can see it if you remove the air intake tube. To replace it, remove the throttle body for access, and there is a bolt and bracket that hold it down. Remove them and lift the shaft straight up while twisting to unstick the o-ring. Replace the o-ring with fel-pro part #70800 (less than $2) and use fel pro 70194 gasket between teh top of the block and the shaft(for added insurance against future leaks). It's about a 1 hour job total. The throttle body mount gasket is fel-pro part # 60983.

[JNewvy]

I actually have the same prob right now. When I first had the problem it was because my front brakes were really wore down and the sensor was hitting. Maybe check those first. That fixed mine at first then it came back, and I can't figure it out again. I am going to try cleaning the ground wire though, good idea. I'll get back to ya.

[miroch]

I've had the same problem with my 97' gp and i had a noise in the front end and they replaced the front bearings which also corrected the problem with the three lights mentioned above that came on. Killed two birds with one stone there. Hopefully this will help you.

[JNewvy]

Yup. Actually just replaced the right front hub assembly. That did it. Thanks everyone for all of the info. Joe Newville

[austin944]

Had the same prob on my 97 gtp. Had to replace the drivers side hub. Took me about 45mins and $130.

[JNewvy]

That's actually pretty weird that you had to do the drivers side. Usually it's the right side because the right side of roads are the most tore up and cause most of the damage to cars. But, good thing it helped. I also feel bad for everyone this happens to it sucks. Also, did you guys that had this happen to you, when the lights came on, did your steering tighten up at all, cause mine did, and I was just wondering. Thanks. Joe Newville

[teknox66]

The sensor the figures out the wheel speed is integrated into the hub. It was 125.00 for the hub at autozone, the dealer wanted 300 for the part and an additional 200 to install! It only take 30-45 minutes to put it in.

[rhoov]

I am just starting to get the same problem on my 97 GT. All three lights are on when I hit a bump. I am going to work on it this weekend. How difficult is it to replace a wheel hub? Would a Chiltons book or some other book help? Or is this too dangerous if I mess it up?

[JNewvy]

I used a Hayes book that I got at Advance Auto. I think the socket you'll need is a 1 1/2 inch. you'll prob have to buy one for 5 bucks. then just follow the directions in the book. Chiltons will do the same.

[miroch]

Originally Posted by JNewvy

That's actually pretty weird that you had to do the drivers side. Usually it's the right side because the right side of roads are the most tore up and cause most of the damage to cars. But, good thing it helped. I also feel bad for everyone this happens to it sucks. Also, did you guys that had this happen to you, when the lights came on, did your steering tighten up at all, cause mine did, and I was just wondering. Thanks. Joe Newville

Yes my steering tightens up when the lights come on, i had the bearings replaced and i thought it fixed the problem but this spring the lights came on again. I think now its the hub. How do you know what side to replace, and would a code reader tell you what side the code is comming from? Thanks. Mike

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by miroch

Yes my steering tightens up when the lights come on, i had the bearings replaced and i thought it fixed the problem but this spring the lights came on again. I think now its the hub. How do you know what side to replace, and would a code reader tell you what side the code is comming from? Thanks. Mike

Normally yes, however, you will need a odb-ii scanner/code reader capable of reading GM manufacturer specific DTC error codes. The ABS system is part of the CHASSIS family of codes.These read out as C1XXX. A lot of scanners like the ones at Autozone may only read generic and that will not be helpful. Hope the info helps you. Good luck!

For example : see below.

DTC C1211 ABS Indicator Lamp Circuit Malfunction
DTC C1214 System Relay Contact or Coil Circuit Open
DTC C1217 Pump Motor Shorted to Ground
DTC C1218 Pump Motor Circuit Shorted to Voltage or Motor Ground Open
DTC C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
DTC C1222 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
DTC C1223 LR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
DTC C1224 RR Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0
DTC C1225 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
DTC C1226 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
DTC C1227 LR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
DTC C1228 RR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
DTC C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1234 LR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1235 RR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1236 Low System Supply Voltage
DTC C1237 High System Supply Voltage
DTC C1238 Brake Thermal Model Exceeded
DTC C1241 Variable Effort Steering Circuit Malfunction
DTC C1242 Pump Motor Circuit Open
DTC C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled
DTC C1246 Brake Lining Wear Circuit Open
DTC C1248 EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On
DTC C1251 RSS Indicated Malfunction
DTC C1252 LF Normal Force Malfunction
DTC C1253 RF Normal Force Malfunction
DTC C1254 Abnormal Shutdown Detected
DTC C1255 EBCM Internal Malfunction
DTC C1256 EBCM Internal Malfunction
DTC C1261 LF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1262 LF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1263 RF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1264 RF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1265 LR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1266 LR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1267 RR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1268 RR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction



Thrasher CAI, DHP v1.0 PCM,
3.25 SC pulley, CAIT GMAF, Hi-Flow CAT,
u-bend delete, 160 TS, TB spacer,
MSD 8.5mm wires, Autolite 104 Spark Plugs,
Goodyear Gatorback Serp. & SC Belt,
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials

[miroch]

thanks bnaylor! I'll check my connections first. The lights seem to stay off at first when its wet out but comes on about 20sec later. Hopefully its just dirt in the sensors but might be water in the hub. Last resort is to find a obd-ii scanner and find out which side the hub is bad. Thanks. mike