rear view mirror rattle

[jncodave]

Originally Posted by Haibane

You should just remove your spoiler... or you should matt under it... Why do you have a spoiler anyhow lol?

1989-91 civics have a small spoiler that is stock on the car, i have one but i dont have a problem with it rattling

[lucki17]

i would just put a little strip of dynamat on the back of the mirror if its really that big of a problem, i would think that would help, but im not to sure.

[Haibane]

nope not really... and it would look stupid too lol

[ra227]

I have this same problem, and when my subs hit a deep long note the mirror vibrates all the way down till its pointed at my back seat- sucks when it happens and your trying to merge in traffic. Anyway, if you had this problem you might be able to place something around the pivot to keep it stationary- it would rattle still but would not slide down. I havent tried anything yet but the rattling there to stay though.

[lucki17]

i would say go to streetbeatcustoms.com and buy a billit mirror, that have some sick ass ones, im getting the three star one, little pricey buy defenatly worth it. and if it sill raddles who cars it look awesome!

[ponchonutty]

This is why you should always find a good car plateform before building a system. If you are hell bent on a certain car, then you need to beef it up in areas to keep it from shaking it apart. My demo vehicle is both a SPL and SQ car. It has hit just shy of 150db which will change soon. I don't have any problems with my mirror shaking. It does move more when it is very warm but still not too bad. The biggest problem I have is my glasses. They will shake so bad that it makes everything a blur!!!!

[lucki17]

what kind of car do you have?

[Haibane]

Originally Posted by lucki17

i would say go to streetbeatcustoms.com and buy a billit mirror, that have some sick ass ones, im getting the three star one, little pricey buy defenatly worth it. and if it sill raddles who cars it look awesome!

I think I could beat you with one sub if I wanted to do spl

[lucki17]

what? please elaborate.

[Haibane]

6 cubes 35hz 1500 watts XXX15

[ponchonutty]

I have a new Jeep Liberty. The system I have is very simple but effective. I wanted to keep it that way. I feel that too many stereo shops have these huge systems that really pound but are way too expensive for the average consumer to pay for. Plus, DEI doesn't require you to gut half your car due to the size of the enclosures. I am running all DEI Audio. I have 2, 10" Studio series subs being ran off a 1500d amp. For mids and highs I have their Studio 6.5" componets being ran off a 300.2 amp. The head unit is actually an older JVC Digifine unit but I wanted what it offered over the newer ones in sound controlling.

The amps are overkill but those are usually the hardest things to remove and replaced so I wanted to stay larger to be able to add other things later if I desired.

The box is only 2.75cu/ft with a large port tuned to 43hz. The reason for it to be tuned to the 40's is that's when you really start to shake and hear things. Anything lower than 38hz and it is usually almost unaudible cone movement which leads to rattles.

I plan to stuff these subs in a very small sealed enclosure in the near future with fiberglass and HDF. DEI actually recomends to overpower them in a sealed box. I did one a while back and painted flames and stuff on the box (I am in a multimillion dollar paint shop) and it turned out sweet so I decided I want that for me too!

You can look up my audio stuff at www.directed.com

[Haibane]

DEI is a good company, but if you want small enclosures that really perform well, I would look at getting Elemental designs Ov2s or kv2s. My system doesn't require I gut my car... Also, I would try a tuned box at 25hz if you want Sq for a bunch of drivers.., If the tinsel leads are ratling, that needs to be fixed by the manufacturer.

[ponchonutty]

Yeah I looked into those at one time but decided on Directed since I already had been using them for alarms and remote starters. I love DEI's warranty program the best over anything out there. I believe that's a big part of their success. Even when I know that a part failed because of customer abuse, they still replace it with no questions.

Even above that, it always looks good to the public when you show off a vehicle with EVERYTHING from one company.

Another thing I like about them is the subs. THey are set up on tri-mode configurations. What that means is that you can take a sub to 3 different levels of performance and each will sound great. So, like my Studios, I have them cranked and you hear no fade. This is true even when cranking classical which is very hard to do. Then, when I have it barely playing, you can still softly hear bass but it is even with everything else. Most other subs can not do this. DEI pattened "dual gap geometry". It is basically like have 2 motor structures in one sub. That way it can play very evenly over a very broad amount of power.

[Haibane]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Another thing I like about them is the subs. THey are set up on tri-mode configurations. What that means is that you can take a sub to 3 different levels of performance and each will sound great. So, like my Studios, I have them cranked and you hear no fade. This is true even when cranking classical which is very hard to do. Then, when I have it barely playing, you can still softly hear bass but it is even with everything else. Most other subs can not do this. DEI pattened "dual gap geometry". It is basically like have 2 motor structures in one sub. That way it can play very evenly over a very broad amount of power.

You need to get out more...

XBL^2 is very similar to dual gap geometry of which Adire and Resonant engineering both use.

Elemental designs also blends really well.

In my opinion, most of the subs listed above would do the same if not better than the deis, and an IDMAX would piss all over those subs. Getting bass even is all a matter of knowing what you are doing really...

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by Haibane

You need to get out more...
Getting bass even is all a matter of knowing what you are doing really...

Yeah, I will agree with you on both! Running a shop is hard work so I don't have much time to do much of anything else. I do however goto the SEMA show every year and remember looking at the companies you listed. Unfortunately for my market, they didn't fit.

On the 2nd note(no pun), you hit it right on the head. People think they can waltz into any big chain store, buy what ever's on the shelf, stuff it into some prefab box and through it into their ride. It just doesn't work that way. You gotta build the right box for the right sub for the right car. Plus, you have to use quality materials and not that cheap stuff prefabs are made out of. If you use high end, high power stuff, that's crucial. I've have $500 systems that sound awesome and I've seen some $5000 systems not sound any better. It's all in knowing what you can and can't do with your equipment and vehicle.

I love it when people think they need a 4th order bandpass box for their stuff because a buddy says that's the only way to go. Today, you normally only have to use either sealed or ported. Above that, you usually miss out on something. Maybe a bandpass for a covertable or some sort of soft top but that about it. Years ago you needed to build wild boxes because of the subs ineffecency in areas but not today. Unforunately people still think they need to waste time and money on wild enclosures.