2000 Blazer Front left Vibration/Humming -- Wheel Bearing?

[Rick Norwood]

In your original thread, you said you completed all 4 rotors. Does that mean you replaced them or had them resurfaced? If they were replaced, it is quite likely that one of the new rotors is slightly warped. I have made it a practice to have a light skin cut (.003-.005) made on every brand new rotor that I install. My wife and I almost lost control of a vehicle (not a Blazer) doing 60 mph due to brand new warped rotors.

[Mikado14]

First off, you did the brake job and then to the dealer. How much time in between? Next, You said that the dealer replaced "both front ball joints" that implies 2 not 4. Did you mean the ball joints on both sides? Next, as BlazerLT said, "You can't repack bearings on our models I think, they are sealed and are replaced as a whole." The bearings are pressed into the casting and are not normally user serviceable. I have pressed out the bearings and repressed new ones but that was only in a pinch. If your dealer said they repacked, I can't see that. You also mentioned that the dealer replaced "tie rod ends". On which side? both sides? inner and outer? outer only? You stated that you had a - "But, it doesn't just do it when I brake. It does it at slow speeds, like an idle speed." I'm having a little difficulty understanding a "vibration" at say maybe 5 mph as you idle along.
Now for the diagnostics:
1. If you think it is a warped rotor, why not just swap it with the other side.
2. If you think it is a slipped belt in the tire, exchange it with the rear tire on the same side.
3. Depending on the tie rod ends, perhpas you should have it aligned. Maybe the mechanic didn't count the turns properly. After any steering component is replaced, an alignment for at least toe in should be done on tie rod ends.
4.When you collapsed your caliper, did you open the bleeder or did you just push the fluid back through the system? With ABS you should not push the fluid back, the possiblity of putting contaminants into the ABS is strong and can cause problems with the dump and isolation valves.
5.If after you swapped rotors and/or tires and the "humming/vibration" remained I would go for the alignment and/or a bearing. In either case it would go back to the dealer for the alignment or the bearing since they performed the work. If the "humming/vibration" moved with the rotor, change it or have it cut. If it moved with the tire, change it out.
6.I am assuming that you have a 4WD. If the mechanic in the shop used an air gun to install the axle nut on the CVJ shaft, he could have damaged the bearing. I have seen it done with an overzealous mechanic. Two days later it was back for a bad wheel bearing.
I am not trying to be rude to anyone here for there is a lot of good thought, however, "check once, review you check, replace once". Perform some diagnostics before you spend anymore money. Hope this helps, Good Luck!

[starla3366]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

In your original thread, you said you completed all 4 rotors. Does that mean you replaced them or had them resurfaced? If they were replaced, it is quite likely that one of the new rotors is slightly warped. I have made it a practice to have a light skin cut (.003-.005) made on every brand new rotor that I install. My wife and I almost lost control of a vehicle (not a Blazer) doing 60 mph due to brand new warped rotors.

I replaced them, that is a good thought.

[starla3366]

I took it to the dealer first, the following second day from bringing it home, I performed my brake job. All four rotors were bad and could not be shaved and the brake pads were worn to the backing plate. The job needed to be done. The dealership replaced all front end ball joints. As for the dealership repacking the bearings, I don't know, the reciept does not go into detail, but I will call them to ask, someone will know. The tie rod ends were replaced on the frontend inner and outer on both wheels.
Yes it does vibrate only at low speeds.
Mikado14, I think the way you went into great details, and explaining the possibilities was great, I could not have asked for anybetter of an explination. I'm sorry I did not go into great detail on my original thread, I thought I had covered it pretty good. No, your not being rude, Your getting to the point, quite quickly i'd say.

[starla3366]

After troubleshooting, and taking it for a drive, I've found that it's not the front left wheel, but it's the rear left wheel. I've also noticed it only happens if I put a slight pressure on the brake pedal. When I say slight pressure, I mean like when you lightly press the brake to take cruise control off. What I'm going to do is swap the rear rotors and do a complete inspection on all brake, wheel, and moving parts, including the parking brake (possible). If anyone has any other ideas, I do believe that it may be a warped rotor, now.

PLEASE HELP,
anthony

[BlazerLT]

Swap in new rotors.

Don't just swap them side to side.

Brand New higher quality rotors are needed.

[starla3366]

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Swap in new rotors.

Don't just swap them side to side.

Brand New higher quality rotors are needed.

I am taking off both rear rotors right now to take to Advanced Auto Parts. I WILL BE GETTING NEW ONES. Defective parts from an auto parts store is not fun, I hate that you buy new parts but you can never rely that they will be good. I will let everyone know what happens after completing this project.

So far this forum is the best on the internet thanks to all your helpfullness.

THANK YOU,
anthony

[BlazerLT]

Don't ever get the cheapest rotor available.

Get the high quality one or the mid grade.

[Rick Norwood]

I think LT is right. I'd swap the rotors out. I'm not sure how much flack Advanced Auto will give you on this, but I can tell you that it doesn't take much warp in a rotor to cause a problem. Like I said earlier, when I had a similar problem I cut .004-.005 off of each side to correct the Built-in warp on my wife's brand new rotors. The difference was night and day. The stupd part is, these very same rotors are warped again and need to be re-cut again. Higher Quality rotors are the answer for sure. The Parts store will argue that brand new rotors are supposed to be good to install right out of the box and do not require cutting. However, They will probably want to skin cut them instead of replacing them, and at the very minimum, they will want to mount them on the Brake Lathe to inspect them using a Dial indicator. Stick to your guns and demand new ones if you see more than .002 warp on the Dial indicator. At very least, they should cut them for free. If you are forced to settle for resurfacing the rotors instead of replacing them, at least you will either cure the problem or eliminate the possibility.

[BlazerLT]

I just replaced my brakes 4 months ago and I replaced my expensive AC Delco Durastop Rotors for cheap ones because replacing the rotors was cheaper than remachining the old ones.

This was a completely retarded thing to do. AC Delco rotors are great and I should have just had them resurfaced.

Idiot = me

[starla3366]

Well, Advanced Auto Parts was great enough to allow me an even exchange but the only brand they had was Wearever. So, I guess I had no choice. Also, they don't shave rotors either. I'm going to install the new ones right now. Wish me luck

[starla3366]

New rotors are on and I'm going out to test them out. Should I have cleaned the new rotors off before installing them. I did. But, I was sure if that oil that was on the rotor was on it for a reason. I just wanted to cover my ass just in case I had to clean it. Wish me Luck.

[starla3366]

It's Gone, The vibration/humming is gone. At least for now. Thanks to everyone that helped me. Especialy BLAZERLT! Keep up the good work everyone. If the noise comes back, Ill let you all know.

[Rick Norwood]

Congrats! Glad I could put my two cents in! Happy motoring!

[tbischop]

Originally Posted by starla3366

Should I have cleaned the new rotors off before installing them. I did. But, I was sure if that oil that was on the rotor was on it for a reason.

Yes, clean the oil off the rotors before installing them. That stuff is on there to keep them from rusting while being shipped or on the shelf.