'93 S-10 Chevy Blazer 4x4 4.3 - Fuel Injector Related Problems???

[vballfun]

Originally Posted by dknape

Does the 95 have the same engine as the 93? I will be tackling my 93 on Friday. I will try to get some photos in.

vballfun: Did you clean out your EGR valve at all?

I have no experience with the 93.. so can't answer that first question...
as to the EGR valve.. Yea I did clean it out.. 2 weeks ago.. actually had an OBDII code that telling me there was insufficient EGR flow. The truck was overheating so I needed to flush my coolant system and replace my thermostat.. (which happens to be right next to the EGR valve) so while I had the thermostat housing out of the way I took of the EGR valve and cleaned it.. (Mine was most definitely 'stuck' with carbon so I freed it up and soaked it in some carburetor cleaner) Made that code disapear.
But just cleaning the EGR didn't fix my oscilating idle or fuel smelling exhaust. (thus the need for the CPI replacement).

[hkdonfishn]

Originally Posted by dknape

Does the 95 have the same engine as the 93? I will be tackling my 93 on Friday. I will try to get some photos in.

vballfun: Did you clean out your EGR valve at all?

I think it is mainly the vacume and EGR setup. I know the 93 is the same as the 94 my sister has a 93 I have a 94. I had her bring hers over one day to look at the vacume and wire setup. It was exactly the same. Good luck. My 94 was running good for a little while after putting in the CPI but now it is starting to buck again and it is idling rough again. I cleaned the EGR out when I put the CPI in but now it is back to it's old ways I am thinking that maybe it is the O2 sensor I have not changed that yet.

[vballfun]

Just some notes from what I ran into while doing mine...

There are 10 bolts/nuts (metric 10mm socket) 4 of them are bolts that also have threaded posts extending off the top of them. so you need a pretty deep socket .. my deep craftsman 1/4 drive set wasn't deep enough for 1 of them (the back left bolt looking at it from the front of car) but my dad had a 3/8 drive set that had a long 10mm (about 3 inches) that reached (just barely). If your replacing the nut kit.. the retaining bracket is held on by a bolt with a torx (star) head. (the diamater of the 'star' was something like 3/16 but I don't remember specifically which torx bit I used.. just be aware ya need one)
( I always end up doing my car work at night and find out I don't have a tool (or part) at 11 pm when all the stores are closed. sucks)

Oh and on the 95 the distributor cap is wedged behind the engine (between the firewall and engine) and is easy to get to with the plenum out of the way.. not sure how it is on the 93 but if you hadn't changed that and wanted to nows a good time. ( I really wanted to but Advance gave me the wrong cap :-/ and like I said.. 11 pm )

Also the fuel lines were a pain in the but to line back up into the nut kit for me.

[blairs93blazer]

i have the exact probs with a 93 W. seems to be a W prob. i havent tried th injectors yet. already spent 600 i guess il make it 900

[kestnn01]

Originally Posted by vballfun

Ok.. well I went and got the injector from Autozone ($270) and the nut kit from local dealership (ranged from $77-$85 for the 4 dealerships in my area), and upper intake gasket ($11 at advance) And an Oxygen sensor ($51 from Advance).

Spent about an hour getting my plenum off (first time i'd done that) and sure enough the passenger side was a nice shiny golden color (as opposed to the nicely grimy black of the drivers side). So my fuel injector was leaking.



Oh also spent $30 on a fuel pressure guage (cause the 2 closest autozones didn't have any to rent grrrrr) and I was not keepin any pressure.

I think the hardest part for me was wrestling with the metal fuel lines going into the nut kit.. after moving them to get the old nut kit out, they didn't want to line up with the new nut kit and had helluva time getting them to even thread.

Anyway.. after putting new CPI and nut kit in I had fuel pressure that didn't dwindle away, and after running if for about an hour of test driving no SES light... and symptoms were gone (rough oscilating idle.. stinky exhuast)

So probably won't put the O2 sensor in.. take it back and save the ~$50..

Thanks for all the pointers everyone.

oh.. just a quick question.. what is this on drivers side of engine.. hooked together with vacuum lines

(The Arrow is just to show orientation.. it's pointing to the 'front')



Thanks

-VBallFun

I am also interested to know what this part is?