Polishing and waxing alternatives.

[Vric]

yellow15, that's is a nice before and after comparison ! it was orrible before

[shieldwulf]

This is a nice thread! I'm interested to learn about the various kinds of polish that each of us uses. I think itz true that the polishes are more or less the same.

Recently, I began using this method:

1) Tamiya compound to smooth out the orange peels ...
2) ... followed by Hasegawa Ceramic Compound for microscopic smoothing ...
3) ... and final shine with Hasegawa Coating Polymer.

[Eyeball Kid]

I worked in a body shop for years and have always had the best results with 3M Finesse It II for both real cars and models. Turtle Wax scratch and swirl remover is also pretty good and available at most auto parts stores. I would prefer Finesse It, but I couldn't find it last time I tried, so the Turtle Wax is doing the trick.

Also if you can find MaGuire's ultra fine 2000 sandpaper to wet sand the clearcoat, get it. That stuff has a very fine and consistent grain.

Once I polish with Finesse or Turtle Wax, I topcoat with Race Glaze, but I dont' have a bottle in front of me for more information, but I know that's what it's called.

[Merkava]

I've had good luck using 3M 1500 grit sandpaper followed by Tamiya P2000 "Finishing Abrasives" (also sandpaper) to remove imperfections and orange peel. These products need to be used wet or they won't work well at all!
Then I rub some Meguire's Mirror Glaze #7 into the paint, which makes for some crazy-ass shine.

I've used this technique on Tamiya Lacquers and Automotive paints, and it works well either way.

Another thing, is that the bottle of Meguire's polish is way more cost effective than Tamiya Polish, since you get a whole pint of Mequire's for about the price of one of those mini-tubes of Tamiya polish.

[yellow15]

Originally Posted by Snooker

Could please post a pic of T-Cut and who is the producer?

here it is:

CarPlan is the manufacturer's name

[Jaymes]

since this thread hasn't been a month old yet since the last post...

Is clearcoating required before using any kind of compound?

[sugarfree]

btw, when you polish your model, did u squeeze hard or just 'rubbing' touch??

[white97ex]

you do not have to clear. i did my corvette with out clear and it turned out pretty good. i think you will find that the opinions on that will probably be half and half

[Jaymes]

Originally Posted by white97ex

you do not have to clear. i did my corvette with out clear and it turned out pretty good. i think you will find that the opinions on that will probably be half and half

hmm your paint is automotive paint though... would it still matter on Tamiya Laquer? I would test it out myself on a scratch piece of styrene sheet..........but no. Nice job on the vette btw

[StephenDeli]

Originally Posted by sugarfree

btw, when you polish your model, did u squeeze hard or just 'rubbing' touch??

I was wondering the same thing. It seems when I polish models with light pressure as told in the FAQ I sometimes get a shine and sometimes it seems like it does nothing? I must be doing something wrong.

[white97ex]

thanx for the compliment. i forgot about most auto paints these days being 2 part, where a clear coat is not needed.

[lotus_man]

What ever you use, the best advise I can give is make sure the paint is fully cured (i.e hardend). Tamiya sprays are dry after a couple of days normally, but I've had much more luck with them if I leave it at least a week, better two before polishing. The paint seems to polish better if it is fully hard.

I just hate waiting. Got a Zonda three quaters done that needs polishing, and I gotta wait another 10 days before I dare rub out the clear coat. Oh wel...

[Jaymes]

ah thanks for the advice... I hate waiting too. I keep opening the plastic container and staring at the model... it's so tempting :P

[white97ex]

you also want the paint to stay smooth through the whole process, even beginning with the primer. the smoother the surface, the less work is required in the end