Used 944 pricing...... with cooling fault!

[83-944]

To make it simple, look at your 12pt socket, that's kinda what the head of the bolt looks like. Think of it as a double torx head. You'll need the cheese head socket, you cannot use a torx bit, you WILL strip the bolt and bend yourself over.

[FabricGATOR]

When you said the clutch takes one week and 5-8 hundred dollars....... did you mean about 40 hrs my time AND $800 in parts? -or- 5-8 hundred at the shop and a weeks down time( riding the bike in the rain)

Of course driver sympathy counts but just what kind of mileage range can someone expect out of a clutch..... I see that you are a flatlander too (Florida) so its not like we're climbing the smokey monutains often... could I possibly expect say 60K mileage from that clutch job (if done right)

You Wrote:
water flows to pump (when thermostat is open) - engine - out top to radiator - back to pump.
sorry but I am hazed........

(thermo open/ engine normal temp)Water is in in the block-- goes to the pump--passes through open thermo-- to bottom of radiator (driver side)--to top of radiator (pass side)--to top of cylinder head (back into the block enroute back to the pump)

AND

(thermo closed/ engine warming)Water is in the block--goes to pump--goes to closed thermo-- circulates through cabin heater core-- back to somewhere on the cooling circuit to engine (enroute back to pump)

Thanks for your wealth of knowlege!
Kurt

[83-944]

(thermo open/ engine normal temp)Water is in in the block-- goes to the pump--passes through open thermo-- to bottom of radiator (driver side)--to top of radiator (pass side)--to top of cylinder head (back into the block enroute back to the pump)

Backwards. Water is in the radiator, goes to the pump, goes through the block, spits out the top and back into the radiator.

(thermo closed/ engine warming)Water is in the block--goes to pump--goes to closed thermo-- circulates through cabin heater core-- back to somewhere on the cooling circuit to engine (enroute back to pump)

Yes! Do you see a solid metal pipe just above the exhaust manifold? That's where the water is coming from the WP to the cabin heater core.

You do the work on the clutch, really you can get it done in a weekend, but they always fail on Monday for some reason! The $500-800 includes:

1) Clutch kit @ $420 (you'll want spring center over rubber center, less failure rate)
http://www.vertexauto.com/epcproduct...vertexauto.com
2) Rear Main Seal @ $20
http://www.vertexauto.com/epcProduct...vertexauto.com
3) 12pt Star Tool , (cheesehead, triple square, double torx, whatever) Local Auto Parts Store, $30
You'll need the 12mm (flywheel) and the 8mm (CV joints) ones.

Total cost so far is $470, so add $30 for bandaids and beer! You'll need a friend to help w/ tranny install, suspension dropping and beer drinking

[FabricGATOR]

Thanks for the clarification on the cooling circuit flow and the clutch info..... I will have to measure in the clutch inspection hole as per your directions to Clarks Garage info.
I hope the seller and I can come to an agreed price that we are both comfortable with. I can afford to maintain something in descent condition but can't fall down a bottomless pit.
Thank You for your guidance and insight.
Kurt

[FabricGATOR]

Well, the seller is moving this week and this is my last opportunity to own this legend. I had some spare time to give the beater a little bit of time and lovin.

I was able to get a burp out of the upper goose neck of the cooling circuit (bleed a bubble) with the heater on high and still blowing cool. I found a solenoid looking thing behind the center of the engine with a pulled vaccuum hose....... Is that a heater controller? I held it open for a few minutes but the cabin never did get hot.

The cooling fan did run for a bit this time. The upper and lower hoses got hot. But......... I wasnt able to feel any heat at the radiator (extending my fingers down from above) I think I might be on the verge of the overheat problem with the bleeding of the system, then if the heater is controlled by a vaccuum valve there is probably more air in the system that can be purged. So that might do it?

I did a clutch inspection and it measured about 7/8 inches.. I beleive that is within limits as I think worn out is aproximatley 1.3 inches and new is .7 (7/10th) inches. (per my limited millimeter to inch ability)

I think I'm gonna buy it and take a chance.....God hates a coward.

[83-944]

That's your heater control valve.

When it opens, retry burping the system.

If the in cabin heater doesn't get hot still, you may want to try manually pulling a vacuum to check for flow

[FabricGATOR]

I ownnnnn it.....

Kurt
6-29-04
20:19

[83-944]

Woohoo, Congrats.

Your wallet will never be fat again!

Just kidding!

[FabricGATOR]

It sure is a neat little car.

I spent a few hours with her today. I took your suggestion and pulled vaccuum with my hand held "Mighty Vac" on the heater controller. I saw the valve articulate...... at least the diaphram is good. I ran it for about 20 minutes at idle, cracking the bleeder screw to burp coolant bubble... She didnt overheat, but I didnt get cabin heat either, beleive me.... I tried.

So at idle, the temp rose to just under the redline but I never got a hot light. I ran the idle up to about 3000 and propped the pedal with a paint stick for a good ten minutes. At first I saw a good drop in temp (to about mid range) and then gradually climbed, but again not into the red zone. I had only the left fan running on high. After the run up and idle cool down (another 5 minutes), I shut it down and put the ignition back on to see temp and both ran hard. Then both slow for a minute with ignition off.

I figure with ram-air of tooling around lake Okeechobee the radiator is gonna be more efficient but then the added load of haulin my ass, she'll probably pop a hose...... I guess there is only one way to find out.....Road Test!


I'm embarrased to say I didnt catch that I was running a flat 12 volts when I was pre-buy. So I guess I take a bath on an alternator or regulator. I guess I was distracted by the cracked head, clogged radiator, and bad water pump. X-shoot tommorow...

My Vertex catalouge #17 was in the mailbox when I got home.....

I never seem to have time AND money at the same time........

[FabricGATOR]

Is there an approved coolant system flush for aluminum engine/radiator?

[83-944]

That reminds me, you're in S Florida.

www.944online.com is in Ft lauderdale and carry many "used" and rebuilt parts for relatively cheap. migh tbe worth a drive. They have regulators for $45. Much cheaper than a new alternator.

To get to the alt regulator:
0) disconnect battery
1) remove the airbox
2) two screws hold the reg in
3) Remove wires.

1 hour work to replace unless you break something so PB Blast everything.

[FabricGATOR]

Cool, you anticipated my next question.........

Can you tell me about the field circuit? Does the regulator ground the field to excite or does it provide power to excite. I have yet to find the alternator, I figure its under the stock air box with a rubberband connected to it.

VerTex has a new regulator for 54.00 I also have a local shop that will provide some alternator components.... I've not been in a bosch before....if it is a Bosch. Alternator rebuilt..... @)(>)).....(i mean) 209.00!!

I think my boats going to sink when it stops getting its monthly cash injections.

I'm gonna start a new thread..... seeing that the purchase price of a cooling faulted 944 is moot at this point.

Reply here then hopefully I'll see you'all on the next page!
Kurt
Stuart, Florida 34997

[Ben944]

Originally Posted by 83-944

Total cost so far is $470, so add $30 for bandaids and beer! You'll need a friend to help w/ tranny install, suspension dropping and beer drinking

What is this suspension dropping that you speak of???!??!!!? when I did my clutch I never even took the wheels off..

[FabricGATOR]

Day 3 of Lovin.........

I got another big burp out of the cooling system...(about three quarts)

I got the heat in the cabin and all the vent valves working...

Compression test (cold/dynamic) 180psi within four revs then 190 max all four cylinders... no variation! I did it twice.......

Sparks all consistant color pattern (cocoa at anode/cathode sooty around the edges)

I hear some loose crap, heat shield, or rats, etc.... possibly the alternator consuming itself (thats just the way life is sometimes)

Overall I'm thrilled........ I think I stole it although I'm cautiously anticipating finding a major FUBAR. Less then that I will probably find the kid and send him a dollar or two.


Thank You for your help!
Kurt

[83-944]

What is this suspension dropping that you speak of???!??!!!? when I did my clutch I never even took the wheels off..

Oops, i pulled the torque tube out to replace it at the same time as the clutch. Please disregard the suspension bit. Thanks for pointing it out though.