92 wagon just stop running - Page 2

gajuggalos · #16 06-01-2004, 01:23 PM

K finally got ahold of an guage. And there is no pressure what so ever. The guy a got the guage from said it might be the relay. but thew manual I have does not show where the damn thing is located. Any ideas where it is located and if that is the problem?

MARTIN KORDOS · #17 06-02-2004, 10:43 AM

take your air idler senser off and clean it with carb cleaner

MARTIN KORDOS · #18 06-02-2004, 10:49 AM

your maf is located on the outside of your air cleaner the beather hose is conected to it

gajuggalos · #19 06-02-2004, 01:12 PM

I have already replaced the MAF sensor

gajuggalos · #20 06-03-2004, 01:22 PM

bump

gajuggalos · #21 06-03-2004, 10:01 PM

I think I have it narrowed down to a bad INTERGRATED RELAY CONTROL MODULE(IRCM) as soon as I save up the 150.00 bucks dealership only to buy it. Then will post back results.

gjimene2 · #22 06-08-2004, 11:27 AM

Hey before you cough up the dough do what I did.

I had the same problem. I have a 1992 wagon. I was able to drive it fine, but when I would idle it would just die on me and would not turn on until half and hour to one hour later.

Open up your hood and follow the ground wire from your battery and look for an adapter that has two wire that is grounded to your car that connects the ground to your engine and other grounded parts. Mine was toast. The thing that would happen was that when it would heat up, it would become loose and i would loose ground. When it would cool off, I would be able to start then engine again.

If you really want to buy a new one, I have a new one that I got form the dealer and found out that I didn't need it at all.

But check the ground cables first. Have someone try to fire up the car while you are under the hood looking for a buzzing sound coming out of your relay. If you hear it or don't, whiggle the cable I mentioned and see if the car attemps to start.

gajuggalos · #23 06-10-2004, 07:43 PM

thanks for the advice, will try that...still trying to get it running

gjimene2 · #24 06-10-2004, 10:44 PM

No problem. The most trouble that you will have in finding what is wrong in a car is on it's electrical system.

gajuggalos · #25 06-12-2004, 01:41 AM

another quick ? Is 9 volts at the fuel pump on the relay side good. I get 12.25 on the relay line coming out of the IRCM.

gjimene2 · #26 06-13-2004, 11:22 PM

I'm WAG'ing that it should be atleast 12.

gajuggalos · #27 06-14-2004, 01:41 AM

the ground line is good. And 12 is what i thought as well. going to try and jump both hot wires together and see what happens

gjimene2 · #28 06-14-2004, 07:34 PM

cool. Just don't make a short near the gas tank.

armonica · #29 06-20-2004, 12:10 PM

If this is still occuring you need to get a good debug session going.

It seems to me that you have no idea where the problem is. An gas engine needs 3 things to run - gas/air, compression and a spark. Rather than blaming fuel, maybe it isn't getting a spark. This is easy, if you have a spare spark plug, keep it with you. Then when it fails pull a wire off the front, put the plug in and put it against the block. Have someone turn the engine over or if you are by yourself you might be able to get it on top of the engine enough to see if it is sparking or not. Your engine you may also be able to put the spark plug in where the coil wire connects to the distributor an put it where you can see it there. Be careful to put the spark plug on something very solid and not near or on some other electrical component. There is somewhere between 30,000 and 100,000 volts being sent to the plug depending on the ignition system. That can nuke solid state circuits! Don't worry, I do this all the time. Just be careful. BTW be careful how you hold it if you are holding it. If you get shocked, you will remember it. It is very unlikely to kill you but it will get your attention.... Not that this has ever happened to me... much.

If it is electrical, it could be the bundle of wires that go over your transmission. There is a sharp edge there and it is known to rub right through into the wires and short or break them. This can be intermittent as you describe. Maybe one of these wires goes back to your fuel pump!

Sometimes it can be the distributor. I don't see this much anymore, it used to happen all the time with points ignition systems (up to years 1975 in most cases, GM started putting electronic ignitions in cars as early as 1967). The darn distributor would get a crack in it, sometimes you couldn't even see it and cause trouble like this. Distributor and rotor are cheap. Take a look at the inside and see what it looks like. Sometimes just cleaning the crap that builds up in there can do wonders.

You may also be suffering from a bad sensor. Cars this day in age are controlled a great deal by a computer. Bad input, bad output. I had one car that it turned out to be the sensor in the arm of the air intake. When they work, they work great. When they don't, you need a diagnosis computer to tell you what is wrong.

Armonica

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