Are high RPM's hard on my truck?

[djpbaby]

Did you join the forums just to say that? Cause your thoughts aint worth two cents.
1. Did you think I meant factory roller rockers?
2. That's right. You've probably never seen the bearing chases on a piston rod or the crank after a year or so.
3. Here is a sight for you to learn what a camshaft is.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/camshaft2.htm
4. I wouldn't expect a non silverado owner to know this. The short skirt design of gm's 99-03 causes a piston slap, aka knocking on a cold start.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news03/gm_buyback.html
5. No, I meant the springs in your seat cushin seeing as this is a thread on your front porch couch.
6. Yes, I'm going to bore my cylinder a 10th of an inch over. How about using the standard boring increment of 1/100th of an inch. (.010/one over)
7. This one is my bad. I meant to say forged pistons (wisco) with chromoly rings. (although they are only coated iron chromoly rings). I was tired and wrapping up my post. And is it ok if me and alot of people spell it different?

If you have anything productive to say about redlinning an engine, you should post here. But if your just here to nitpick my posts, maybe you should go back to being a porch monkey.

[Redneck_Cadillac]

no.

the reason i joined the forums was to read worthless comments written by handj@bs like yourself that couldn't tie their own shoes without an Alldata bulleten, a Chilton manual and their big brother helping them. (must have all 3 to qualify. you do.)

i did have something constructive to say: hence my comment. apparently you stopped reading when it stopped concerning you and your idiocy. typical......

the fact that you couldn't find your a$$ with two hands and a flashlight, is just purely coicidence... go back to Autozone and buy more APC crap for your truck. i hear decals are back on sale......maybe a new chrome exhaust tip.....

This is your Quote:
The only reason your engine can't go at higher rpms (besides the limiter) is because that is the fastest the rockers can go without "floating." If they float, you bend valve stems and misfire and other cool stuff. In NASCAR, they are pushing over 9000 rpms and they say the valve springs are tougher than the springs on the suspension. unquote:

Rockers don't float: valves do. anything that rockers do, is secondery to the cam, pushrods or the valves. (that's why they're referred to as "pivotal movement parts) Hydraulic lifters pump up with oil beyond zero lash and can't release the oil at higher RPM's. that's why your rockers break. can't compress a valve with negative lash and expect something not to give/break. NASCAR (and pretty much any serious racing tappet engine) runs solid lifters. no pump-up, no floaty valves, unless your valve springs are too weak, or someone forgot to reinstall the retaining bar....but why would i explain this to you. you know everything.......... like piston slap.

it's not caused by a short skirt, it's caused by an improper cylinder bore/clearence issue that causes the top/side parts of the pistons, (above the compression ring) and skirts to bang against the cylinder walls.

short skirts??? (another fine quote from on of your posts...i can get it if you'd like.) all my race engines had shorter skirts than any street car.....

argue with these experts, if you fail to believe me. they're the ones fighting for GM owners with the problem/lawsuit. did you even read it, or just read about it in the forum and now want to sound like you're all boned-up on it?

http://www.pistonslap.com/media/arbitration03.pdf

(see page 2: read where it starts, "Dr. Victor Wong....")

the site itsself with more info for those who care:

http://www.pistonslap.com/experts.htm

GM's commentssee "What's all the racket")

http://www.mylemon.com/Piston%20Slap.html



Chrysler went through the same thing in the late 80's with the 2.2/2.5 engines. when disasembled, the pistons fell out, rings and all.....but i wouldn't expect you to remember that since coloring inside the lines was probably the most important thing going on for you then.... `nother juice box?

why are you boring your engine anyway? unless there is cylinder wall damage, no cross hatching or you're fitting another type/larger piston in there, (Chro Moly, right?)there's no need for it. don't tell me you're one of these a$$clowns that thinks that boring an engine .10 or .30 over is a way to get horsepower...???? "oh jeepers..it's bored .30 over....!!"

man....i haven't heard that since 7th grade.....on the playground.

going from 9.0:1 to 10.0:1 compression means nothing if you haven't got the cam, heads, exhaust, intake system or anything to help produce any more HP's....... most turbo engines are 8.5:1-9:1 compression. you'd get more flipping the aircleaner lid upside down on a carb'd car..........

it's apparent by your post(s) that you know enough to sound like you know what you're talking about. when it comes to real life experience, you're full of crap. just wanted to point that out. nothing personal really....

be as it may, people come here to ask for help, not have some monkey on a computer give them a line of sh1t that even a third grader could detect was BS..........

[djpbaby]

where do you find time to sit on your porch now that you spend half of your day researching your posts and the other half wacking it to a picture of your sister's panties. You probably do have more cars in your front yard than a used car dealership, so I concede. You are the better dirthead. Thank you for helping me realize this.

[Redneck_Cadillac]

Originally Posted by djpbaby

where do you find time to sit on your porch now that you spend half of your day researching your posts and the other half wacking it to a picture of your sister's panties. You probably do have more cars in your front yard than a used car dealership, so I concede. You are the better dirthead. Thank you for helping me realize this.

no prob....

but it's not my sister. it's yours.......

mine died 3 years ago in a farm inplement accident. that's why me and my brothers have been stuffin' yours...............

but hey....after we're done, we're given her first choice of any car in the front car she wants!!! it's win/win for you!!

it's all good!!!!!!!

[v10_viper]

haha, I love the discussions in here!

But I've got about the same question, we have a Jayco T28A Camper, it's one of those that you can haul like a go cart in the back, and for us it's two Harley's. I think the camper alone weighs somewhere around 7000 lbs, plus 100 gallons of water, other crap, plus the bikes, so it's prob pushin 10,000 lbs or so. We were driving back up from Kansas, we live in northwest Iowa, and we had a hell of a wind pushin on us and the truck was in Tow/Haul mode, and we were goin like 65 mph i think, it'd downshift into second and shoot to like 4300 rpm and dad was gettin really pissed off cuz it would stay up there for say 20 seconds or so then go back into third. I figured it was fine just because with todays engines they know what they're doing. But I just wanted to ask if it's ok for the (Vortec 6000) to run at that rpm for very long. We're also getting about 8 mpg pullin that big fucker around, so i was going to ask if we put one of those Velocistacks i think they're called, that you slip in your throttle body and it's suppose to be smoother or w/e, then one of those Tornado air inserts, Do you suppose that those would increase mileage pretty good and up power? The truck has no problem at all in pulling the trailer when there is no wind, but bein 10 foot tall, 30 foot long and shit it catches quit a bit of wind, and we dont have the spoiler , but we're thinkin bout gettin a topper then mountin the wing on that, but dad mainly wants better mileage, so do you think the increase would be pretty good?

Edit: It's an extended cab long bed, um....has 3.73 gears and 265/75's on it. In the Manual it does say that the max pulling with that rear end is suppose to be 8000 lbs but it seems to have no problem pulling it.

[Redneck_Cadillac]

in my opinion...those "tornado" things have not been proven to do anything except make your wallet lighter.

part of your problem is the 3.73 gears, and pulling that kind of weight. (10,000) especially uphill......... GM offers a 4.10 rear but i believe a 3.73 is standard on a lot of the light truck chassis. i have a 3.73 rear in my truck and i still find areas where my truck just isn't comfortable in any gear, and bounces around a bit, until on more level ground, or down hill slightly, and that's only with a 3000lb trailer behind me. (5.3 motor only) i realize you have a camper, and not a pick/up truck, but gearing is gearing. changing to a 4.10 will make the truck work less, keeping you in a higher gear, hence better gas mileage. or.....lighten the load.

you could try Hypertech tuner and change your shift delays a little, but i feel like that's only trying to band-aid the situation. a gearing change sounds in order......

the RPM thing (4300 was it?) isn't terrible, if you're only holding it there for a little, but i wouldn't recommend it repeatedly. why try making the truck work harder than it was intended to.....??

another problem is that it's a camper..... it's heavy and has the wind resistance of a billboard. it almost actually sounds as if you're borderline where a diesel would have been a better power source, than a gas motor.........