facing subs- up/down?

[FRONTLINE1985]

Rickyi869 Do You Have A Pic Of You System, I Would Like To See It? Tanks

[rickyi869]

i'll take a pic of my system and post it or something

[z34dohc]

i have decided to face them down, and they pound 2 12" bostons in 2 separate enclosures . works awesome nice tight bass. hits hard. i have a kicker ix402 and it is bridged and everything is awesome. if anyone wants pics and measurements email me at [email protected] and i will send them to u
It works for me so.. I would like some crazy bass, but i like the type that handles different types of music and sounds good. clean sound....
Thanks for all the info guys.. and TAKE CARE!!
Peter

[TexasF355F1]

Originally Posted by z34dohc

i have decided to face them down, and they pound 2 12" bostons in 2 separate enclosures . works awesome nice tight bass. hits hard. i have a kicker ix402 and it is bridged and everything is awesome. if anyone wants pics and measurements email me at [email protected] and i will send them to u
It works for me so.. I would like some crazy bass, but i like the type that handles different types of music and sounds good. clean sound....
Thanks for all the info guys.. and TAKE CARE!!
Peter

Glad to hear your happy with the turn out. I feel the same way about mine.

[buttnekked]

here's a cheap trick to clean up your bass. Go to your local discount store and pick up the poly fill in the craft dept. this stuff is for stuffing pillows or something but it also works great to stuff an enclosure to get solid clean bass without the "muddy" sound whe it hits.

[white97ex]

a lot of times, if the base isn't sounding right, your airspace is wrong, it doesn't have a whole lot to do with speaker orientation. yes, it does make a difference, i've got an s-10. i had my speaker firing into the seat. it made the seat back rattle so i down fired it, took care of the rattle, and it sounds ok. the base was always louder if the windows were down. this is an indication that i need more airspace inside the box. that is the first test i would perform if your base doesn't sound good. roll the windows down and see if it sounds better. if it does, get a bigger box.

[buttnekked]

porting and passive radiators also help with smaller than optimal boxes.

[white97ex]

porting doesn't really help with smaller enclosures. the goal of a smaller enclosure is to take up less room. and in trucks unless you plan on eliminating some seating. or, if you've got lets say a single cab s-10. like me. you dont have enough room to add a port to a box. it is not as simple as cutting a round hole and putting some pvc in an existing enclosure. ported enclosures are complicated to build. they require a lot of time and definately require more airspace. most of the time approximately .5 cu. ft. more. i've got a JL10w6v2. and it is a small air space woofer. in an s-10 you need about .75 cu. ft. in a ported enclosure you need about 1.25-1.5 cu ft plus the area of the port which, for that particular speaker needs to be ab out 30"Lx1.5"wx11.5"H. that is a pretty good size box. simply because of the size of the port.

[jeverett]

Originally Posted by white97ex

a lot of times, if the base isn't sounding right, your airspace is wrong, it doesn't have a whole lot to do with speaker orientation. yes, it does make a difference, i've got an s-10. i had my speaker firing into the seat. it made the seat back rattle so i down fired it, took care of the rattle, and it sounds ok. the base was always louder if the windows were down. this is an indication that i need more airspace inside the box. that is the first test i would perform if your base doesn't sound good. roll the windows down and see if it sounds better. if it does, get a bigger box.

Not trying to be mean, but getting a bigger box if you test it that way wont help. If your enclosure is sealed, it doesnt matter if your windows are down or not. None of the outside air is getting in the box anyhow. All the air in the box is used for is suspension for the speaker cone so it won't bottom out. Too much air, and it bottoms. Use the spec sheet that came w/your speakers to see how much air space it recommends.

What happens when you roll your window down, is the speaker is moving more air, which is what a speaker does to make sound anyhow. The more air it moves, the louder it becomes.

I had a single cab F-150 w/ 2 kenwood 12's and it pounded w/the windows up, but like you said, was always louder w/ the windows down. The truck I have now is the same way with 10's and I know the speakers have enough room b/c I blueprinted and built the boxes myself.

[white97ex]

i agree with you on the suspension part. but i beg to differ on the rest. the manufacturer does provide specs for the speaker. and the optimum enclosure volume. but that is merely an average. the sheet on my w6 says .62 is the internal volume needed for the box. but if you call them up and say hey i got a single cab s-10 how much air space does this thing need, they throw .75 at you. that is because the smaller box volume is tightening the cone movement and causing it to move more air on the outside of the box. if there is not enough air outside of the box (cabin space) then the bass is not going to sound right. so by increasing the volume inside the box, the woofer is trying to move less air outside the box and you eventually reach and equilibrium, where the difference between windows up and windows down is not as noticable. if you will look on that sheet for your kenwoods, they give you a volume "range" a min and a max. it all has to do with teh frequency drop off and efficiency of the enclosure. the frequency of the sound waves, determines their length. im gonna stop there. i've been doing boxes for a few years now, im not going to argue with anyone cause we all have our own views on the subject, but most of my methods and ideas stem from those that i have attained by contacting jl audio. just remember that the volume they give you on that spec sheet is not always the optimum volume for every application. i always call the manufacturer of the woofer i am designing and enclosure for and tell them what vehicle i am working with and what my goal is spl, sql or an equal mix and see what they have to offer on the box volume.

[jeverett]

Good deal man. I'm glad you filled me in on that, I know it'll help me next time I build a box for someone/myself.

[thefro]

but now if your serious and want spl or just a tight set up, cut out your rear cab wall, build a speaker box in the bed of your truck and have the subs firing forward. than you can make big enough to be ported, or or have the subs blasting in your ears. and i agree with white97ex on box enclousers. yea if your box gets to big or subs move to much air the air in the cab becomes the box and vis-versa

[jeverett]

Hey since, you've been building boxes for awhile, maybe you can give me some ideas for my truck? I wantto be able to build a box that won't move my seat up much, will fit on TOP of the factory jack box (i have things mounted under there that I can't move) and still provide enough air space.. So far the only design I've come up with and built is just a plain square box..not angeled or anything and I think that theres a better design that can meet my needs. Also, have any experience with these so called "low profile" subs?

[white97ex]

what do you mean by lo profile subs? personally i would move the jack into the tool box, and eliminate the jack box, that would save some room. or are you saying that is what you have done and there are other things in the jack box? first step is to decide the orientation of the woofers. front fire or down fire. i downfired mine. i've got a jl 10w6v2. that was the only feasable option. the surround of the woofer stuck out a good way from the basket and it would have made the box long and skinny. i didn't have enough room for the mounting depth of the woofer and still have room for adequate breathing room for the pole vent (always leave at least 3/4 in behind the magnet). so i chose down fire. it sounds good. and it allowed me to make a more compact box. it was not as long and a little deeper. allowing more room for my amps. next get your seat in a comfortable position and then measure your clearances. decide how much room you want to sacrifice to the box and the force it to fit. use up every bit of space that you can. that is the bad thing about single cab pick ups building boxes that allow the driver to still be comfortable are very detailed and time consuming. just remember to leave enough room for cone movement so you dont wear out the surround. need any more help just ask. my e-mail is [email protected]

[pacethis]

Originally Posted by rickyi869

i have 2 10 inch alpine type E's, 2 bostons 6x9's in a custom made box up front, in front of the middle seat, 2 6 3/4 component cerwin vegas in the front doors, 2 4x6 infinitys in the rear doors, n an alpine head unit, n all this getting powered by a kenwood 600 watt amp, and a 100x4 DhD amp. The first box that fires down i bought it all ready made, but i didn't like the bass that it produced. The dimensions of the box were so small inside, that i decided that i was gonna build my self my own boxes. So far the boxes are done and hit 10 times better. 1 10" hits better than both of the tens with my old box. Now i'm just fiberglassing the boxes and painting them the same color as my truck. I made the bozes facing out towards the front, and up at an angle it raises the rear seat around 2 inches but hey i don't ever ride back there

Wow, that's quite an assortment of different products in your truck...
Most people like to sound-match their speakers, which is really hard w/ different brands...