2000 Silverado Driver Window Quit.

[fabrikator]

Have a '99 Z-71 x-cab with this problem on the drivers side. Had the dealer order the motor for me, they sold it to me at "cost" which was $61.

After seeing that many are having this problem, I'd like to offer my experience. If any of you would like pictures of my work, let me know and I'll upload them to a website for all to view.

The door panel needs to have the door lock cover, courtesy light, door handle cover, mirror cover and power window/mirror plate removed along with any electrical attachments they have. These are all held in with snap brackets/plastic tabs of similar type and can be popped out with a screw driver and some care. There is one screw by the door handle, one behind the power window/mirror plate and one on the very bottom of the door panel. When all removed the door panel can then be removed by lifiting up on the entire panel.

Three of the motor's screws (8mm) are blind so you'll need a small ratchet set for this job since you'll be inside the door taking the screws out. There is one more facing you (used a 3/8" socket), for a total of four screws to remove.

After removing the screws, you will need to seperate the cog on the motor unit from the cable/pully assembly. Be careful not to let the cable/pully pop out of it's housing when you seperate it from the motor unit, it's lightly spring loaded.

If you make it this far, the rest is easy. Be sure on reassembly that the plastic cable/pully bracket is behind the metal power window mount and that the motor unit is on the front side.

I used some Fel-Pro anti-sieze on the rails of the track while in there. I also noticed some light corrosion on mine between the metal motor and the plastic assembly it's screwed to.

[Jimmiz71]

Mines up and working now the motor was fine but the cable had worn out and snapped and tangled itself up. I ended up buying the whole setup and now have an extra motor(old one)if I need it Fabrikators instructions are very good... I used some 3M adhesive spray to put the Plastic back on the door between the panel and window, taking it off it lost its stickyness, after a couple of mins it was back in place.
Everyones help made this an easier fix.... Thanks!!

[C5GUY]

Looks like I am going to get to do this job soon on my 2000. I am about 95% sure it is my motor since the window will roll down and stop and after many tries it will finally roll back up SLOWLY. I have changed several power window motors but nothing this new. FABRIKATOR I would owe you if you could post your pictures for me!! THANX

[fabrikator]

C5Guy: Your window sounds as if it's doing what mine did. Replacing the motor cured the problem for me.

Here's a link to the pictures and some general instructions to help anyone with this job.

http://www.artisanmfg.com/silveradowindowmtr.html

It's a very straight forward job and the advise that others have posted here helped me to do it right.

[C5GUY]

fabrikator,
Thanks for the info' and pictures! It is members like you that make a forum work. I will tackle this job next week and let you know how it turns out.

[dpatrick]

Originally Posted by dpatrick

I took the door panel off today to see what was wrong with the power window. I activated the switch to roll the window and then tapped the motor with the screwdriver handel and it started working. I lubed up the tracks with grease and put it back together. So far so good. I took som pics while I had the door apart. Just email me if you want to see them. I'm not sure why some of you experience broken cables, they seem strong. I also motored the window several times while spraying wD40 on the cable. In my case I did notice some wear on the window tracks that indicated some binding. I think lubing them will help ease the operation.

Well its a month later and guess what? Yup! I'm taking it appart again. I think I will be ordering a motor.

[dpatrick]

I just got a price breakdown.
1) motor only = 118.75 Cad
2) motor and regulater 277.00 Cad
3) atleast 1.5hrs labor @ 88 per hour
I do have an extended warranty but of course these are not covered. #%&%*()(*@!!!

[Jimmiz71]

That seems kinda expensive.. I bought mine from the dealer in Lowell for 230.00 plus tax and installed it myself, I have an extra motor cause the cable had broke but the motor was fine, I would call around for a better price.
-Jimmy

[Jimmiz71]

It only takes about 30 mins total to pull the old one out and put the new one in, Im not sure why Chevy charges 1.5hrs?? since I'm sure they are pros since they change them so frequently.. due to the quality of the design..

[WhoMeLes]

Hello lighter-pocket friends. I have a 1999 Z71 Silverado. My cable broke for the first time in 2001 Thank God it was still under Warranty @ 26000 Miles. My cable has broke for the 2nd time 2 1/2 years later 52000 miles. I have read your E-mails about prices and will buy one soon, but would like to know if anyone has fixed the cable without buying a new one? I am willing to try to fix this and pass on information if it works. But if someone has tried and it broke again please inform me. Brother can you spare a dime I already have a lemon___ part thanks to GM. I also read an Thread that encourages people to phone and E-mail GM I did before finding this Website. Well GM said my truck is getting old so is my wife's 1998 Dodge Stratus but the motor cables have not broke once.

[mrcutssupreme]

You've got it all wrong. This happend with my brothers 2000 chevy silverado. Now keep in mind, there is no way a new truck like that should have problems with the windows motors burning out. The dealer said he would fix is for $300..BS its a simple unscrew and screw. What happens is the window motor and the gear bind up some how. So you take off the door panel and get right to the motor and gear. The two are mated up with 2 screws, unscrew them so they seperate just enough to notice. Then screw it back in, 99% of the time that's all that happens, try it and let me know what happens.

[macktoschool]

Same thing happened on the Passenger side window of my 2000 Sierra. I put in a new motor, and all was good. Oh by the way, if your going to do it yourself, buy some extra clips for getting the door panel back on, you'll need em.

[Murphster05]

Hey, hope someone is still reading this post...I am having a problem with my passenger side window regulator, why do I know this? I took it to the dealer and they looked at it, told me it was broken, and told me that it would be about 350 to fix, so yea.... I called my extended warranty place and boy do THEY know there is a problem with the regulators! They won't cover them! Genius...so I think that I am going to attempt fabrikator's fix here...doesn't seem too hard I guess, but your pictures are gone fabrikator, so if you still exist...let me know. Thanks!

[fabrikator]

I'm still around. Just not on the forum as much as I'd like to be.

Sorry the link is broken. Give me a couple of days and I'll see if I can locate them and repost to one of my websites. I'll list that URL in this forum after I get them loaded.

The job it's self is pretty easy if you're carfull. How the dealer justifies $350 for a job like this is beyond me. Or, perhaps I'm just in the wrong business.

-Fabrikator

[Murphster05]

well by that standard I think we are all in the wrong business, I am going to buy the part on ebay, comes out to like 60 dollars which is a little disconcerting but hey, if it works it is all ready better than stock...so... Should I pick any lube or grease up from napa before hand or will wd 40 applied liberally do the job? :-)