Parking Brake

[Q-Bert]

Originally Posted by Seabornman

I only got 4 years and 60,000 miles out of that brake job. This time the backing plates are gone - disintegrated. The pins are stuck in the calipers, the rotors are trash, and I haven't used my parking brake more than 5 times in 4 years. This is after I liberally lubricated everything I could find with high temp grease and anti-seize. At least the rotors came off easily. And the rear parking brake shoes are still $80! The parts dealer wanted to sell me expensive rotors and pads. I told him not to bother - they don't wear out, they rust together. This is the last brake job I'll do on this truck because I'm afraid I'll have to replace the entire rear end next time!

I had to laugh when I read this. Sounds exactly like what I found on my 2005 Suburban this morning. Backing plates totally rusted and disintegrated.
What clueless idiots designed this so you have to remove the rear axles to replace the backing plates.... I mean WTF??

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Q-Bert

I had to laugh when I read this. Sounds exactly like what I found on my 2005 Suburban this morning. Backing plates totally rusted and disintegrated.
What clueless idiots designed this so you have to remove the rear axles to replace the backing plates.... I mean WTF??

I replaced my rear backing plates with out removing the axles about 3years ago 2000 silverado...4x4...

I simply cut them in half and installed the 2 pieces...i didn't even weld or reinforce the cut area...what I did do is coat them with a high quality rust proofing compound. as of this date they still look new...


what I found was GM had the rusted backing plates painted with out primer and without being cleaned this is why the fail so badly...


another chapter in designed to fail...



this post is too old, but I just had to respond to berts comment....

[powerstroke96]

Just had this happen to me in an 2004 Tahoe 107K. Great information in this tread!!!

[rockwood84]

and g.m. wonders why you don't go running back to buy another $20,000.00 + truck from them so they can get back to screwing you again with their junk.........if g.m. would quit getting their parts made in mexico they might last longer.and quit putting so much faith in dumb*** engineers they might get back to making a product they did in the '60's and '70's.

[LovemyTahoebuthate]

how can I help get this recalled

[markp1966]

The parking brake has not worked in my 2000 sierra Z71 since I bought the thing new. Backing plates rotted away to nothing and destroyed the P.B. shoes within a couple years old. For quite a few years now I got my inspections at a place that wouldn't check it so, so be it. Right? Well my luck ran out this year. I'm terrified to pull the rear shafts out so I think i'm gonna cut the plates in half and I understand that the shoe will rotate around the shaft hub with a little trickary (saw this on you tube). I believe the backing plate is a must for the new shoe because of the retaining clip at the bottom of the plate that assists in holding the P.B. shoe in place.
If anyone can verify that this is correct or if an aftermarket hasn't come up with a fix without going this far please share. Don't even get me started on the torx bolts that hold the front callapers in place in this thing(hint, have an easy out handy), the front ABS false cycling at 10 MPH of less, or my favorite the steel brake lines that rot and fail while driving (hint, have an extra set of skivey's handy). I think GM outsourced the braking engineering duties to the Three Stooges because the entire braking systems are pure crap in these things. BTW, Did I happen to mention I also have a 02 tahoe with the same exact issues so I know for sure my truck isn't an isolated case, this is widespread. I hope the assclown engineering team at GM has figured these things out on the newer models.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by markp1966

The parking brake has not worked in my 2000 sierra Z71 since I bought the thing new. Backing plates rotted away to nothing and destroyed the P.B. shoes within a couple years old. For quite a few years now I got my inspections at a place that wouldn't check it so, so be it. Right? Well my luck ran out this year. I'm terrified to pull the rear shafts out so I think i'm gonna cut the plates in half and I understand that the shoe will rotate around the shaft hub with a little trickary (saw this on you tube). I believe the backing plate is a must for the new shoe because of the retaining clip at the bottom of the plate that assists in holding the P.B. shoe in place.

If anyone can verify that this is correct or if an aftermarket hasn't come up with a fix without going this far please share. Don't even get me started on the torx bolts that hold the front callapers in place in this thing(hint, have an easy out handy), the front ABS false cycling at 10 MPH of less, or my favorite the steel brake lines that rot and fail while driving (hint, have an extra set of skivey's handy). I think GM outsourced the braking engineering duties to the Three Stooges because the entire braking systems are pure crap in these things. BTW, Did I happen to mention I also have a 02 tahoe with the same exact issues so I know for sure my truck isn't an isolated case, this is widespread. I hope the assclown engineering team at GM has figured these things out on the newer models.

the 2000 silverado Lt ext cab 4X4 I have owned since new has had all these issues..

a few years ago the backing plates rotted..gm painted over the rusted metal..these I cut in half. no axle removal. the shoes will rotate over the hubs.

the brake lines were designed to rust I purchased the double flare tool and 25 feet of brake line..

the rear calipers were defective from day one . caliper pistons distorted pads binding when 50% worn..

the front abs sensor needs removal , then file down the mounting surface to bright clean metal ..that will fix the abs coming on at low speeds..

inspect the brake line next to the fuel tank that will blow, also the lines driverside frame rail...

with new shoes and the new hold down clips these park brakes do not flop around like the oem as built types this is why those park brake shoes wear out ..also I would replace the rear rotors, I did....

park brakes work great now almost 3 yrs.

toyota gets slamed with the runaway issue and GM gets away with murder!

you need a diaper when you drive these vehicles if your not on top of these brake issues!

[MIKE48PA]

Dorman makes a split backing plate for The rusted out ones, you need not remove the axle to install them, I saw them on Amazon.com for $19. hope this helps, as mine are all but rusted away but I'll wait, maybe I'll sell it.

[MIKE48PA]

Originally Posted by j cAT

I replaced my rear backing plates with out removing the axles about 3years ago 2000 silverado...4x4...

I simply cut them in half and installed the 2 pieces...i didn't even weld or reinforce the cut area...what I did do is coat them with a high quality rust proofing compound. as of this date they still look new...


what I found was GM had the rusted backing plates painted with out primer and without being cleaned this is why the fail so badly...


another chapter in designed to fail...



this post is too old, but I just had to respond to berts comment....

Dorman makes a split backing plate for The rusted out ones, you need not remove the axle to install them, I saw them on Amazon.com for $19. hope this helps, as mine are all but rusted away

[Tony Silva]

I recently installed rear E-brake shoes on a 2002 Tahoe...like, a year ago. and the dang thing is grinding again. It is important to repair the faulty brakes as soon as possible otherwise it will be very difficult to remove the disc. The grinding comes from the metal portion of the E-brake shoe coming in contact with the hat portion of the disc and it will end up making a groove and basically lock itself onto the vehicle. In my experience, pulling hard on the disc resulted in a tiny bolt to snapping off. This tiny bolt is the one used to secure the retaining clip for the shoe. Only good thing about it is that it was easy to drill it out.and rethread the hole.

[4x4junkie]

WOW, guys this thread started in 2003 that 9 years old, and yes there is still no recall on this issue ..... oh and its also an issue on the newer models as well.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Tony Silva

I recently installed rear E-brake shoes on a 2002 Tahoe...like, a year ago. and the dang thing is grinding again. It is important to repair the faulty brakes as soon as possible otherwise it will be very difficult to remove the disc. The grinding comes from the metal portion of the E-brake shoe coming in contact with the hat portion of the disc and it will end up making a groove and basically lock itself onto the vehicle. In my experience, pulling hard on the disc resulted in a tiny bolt to snapping off. This tiny bolt is the one used to secure the retaining clip for the shoe. Only good thing about it is that it was easy to drill it out.and rethread the hole.

first I want to correct you on the term E brake ...these are parking brakes . that means these parking brakes are "not" to be used when the vehicle is moving or to hold this vehicle on a steep grade..now this is NOT my opinion but that of GM >>>>>>>>>>>. very poor quality and strength.


the park brake shoes fail / wear out , usually due to the hold down clips being too weak to keep shoes from floppying around. the new heavy duty shoes/clips autozone sold a few years back do work. the OEM clips are crap and should not be used.

when the park brake drum gets damaged from this failure the rotor must be replaced.

[Finoman100]

This not a reply but more question about the parking brake release cable. Now I have just replaced it and the Brake alarm is still going off as though it is still engaged. How do I fix this?..I looked to see if I could tighten the parking brake but it is tighten completely already.

I have a:

2003 Chevy Silverado V6

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by Finoman100

This not a reply but more question about the parking brake release cable. Now I have just replaced it and the Brake alarm is still going off as though it is still engaged. How do I fix this?..I looked to see if I could tighten the parking brake but it is tighten completely already.

I have a:

2003 Chevy Silverado V6

your problem is most likely the park brake self adjusting apply /release assy. make sure the wires to it are secure.

what was your problem to begin with ?

did you adjust the park brake cable ?

[Finoman100]

Originally Posted by j cAT

your problem is most likely the park brake self adjusting apply /release assy. make sure the wires to it are secure.

what was your problem to begin with ?

did you adjust the park brake cable ?

The release cable in the inside broke, then the Parking Brake light and alarm stayed on. After I replaced the release cable I figured they would turn off, but didn't. Before it broke though I had to pull up on the parking brake pedal to get the alarm to turn off. I look underneath to tighten the cable, but it is tightened all the way. Also I can't find where the "sensor" or wires are located. I even looked for the fuse on the left side of the dash and under the hood, but they were all fine.