What to do now???

[kjewer1]

If the cam sensor (not affected by crankwalk, thats the crank angle sensor), or the crank sensor was bad, you wouldnt get spark. If the engine doesnt know where the motor is relative to top dead center it wont fire the injectors or plugs. If you are getting spark its time to look elsewhere. Start with the fuel pump. Have your mechanic (not that first guy ) check to be sure its working by whatever means necessary. using the scan tool to force it on while the key is in the on position but the car is not cranking is the best way. Anther simple test is a compression test. If the motor doesnt have compression for whatever reason it wont start. But again, since it ran when you shut it off this is very unlikely. Just by the fact that yo have spark I can rule out several other possibilities, so be sure that you are getting it. If yuo arent getting it you need to look into the ECU, the ECU fuse, coil packs, ignitor, etc. Make sure you post when you find out what it is

[95eclipse-gsx]

ok here is the result after checking my car.... the cranck angle sensor was loose... so my mechanic tightened it up... then he also said the timing belt tensioner was a bit loose to... so he then tightened the timing belt also.. then i asked him to check for sparks he did it and there were sparks still... so he went and did the compression check and the readings were all zero .... now what does this mean and what do i need to do to repair it... he still insist me on getting a new engine but i got no money for it... another thing which i want to remind u guys abt my car is that..my head gasket was leaking and there was white smoke from the exhaust which i dint repair... i wanted to repair it at the end of this month... but my guess is that it has nothing to do with the compression i think ....but anyway somebody help me

[hodunwun]

See message from hodunwun above. I have done engine work on an 16 valve that had an unbroken belt but nearly all the valves were bent. Over reving, lost teeth on belt, jump time - what ever - the valves were bent. The belt will still run the cams but the valves will not be closing = zero compression. See message obove.
doug

[EclipseRST]

yea he is right, it could be the valves, to check it, take the spark plugs out, put a big ass breaker bar on the crank bolt that holds the pully on, if it turns all the way throught you shouldnt have a problem with bent valves, although i could be your valve seats, if it is not that it most likly is your piston rings causing blow by, good luck and i hope that helps...

Jake

[hodunwun]

EclipseRSt, He just had the engine turning over with the starter to do he compression check, so turning the crank over to check for valve/piston interferrence will show no interference. The valves will already be bent out of the way or far enough up but not closed so the pistons can travel up and down ok. But the valves are still not closed thus the zero compression. I am not sure of the engine he has in a 95 was it? But the 1g 16 valve crate engine with 40 thou runs about $750, the turbo crate is 1500 smackaroos in Portland. On the bench the head work with new valves and valve guides if needed is about $450. A bench pressure test for a cracked head my also be called for. Gaskets about $100 and a new belts if necesary about $30 plus minus. That's the cam timing belt and the balance shaft belt behind it.

[kjewer1]

Sounds like the belt may have been loose enough and skipped teeth. Usually the only way to have ZERO compression is bent valves. Bad HG, pistn ring, etc will usually be somewhere between 50 and 130. The good news is you can get a head rebuilt for ~200 bucks, and new valves are about 200 for SS, so stock should be around 100--150 I'd guess. And while the head is off, you can do the HG fix, and if it needed timing belt parts replaced or will soon now is the time. Also be SURE this asshat does the tbelt tension right. One does not just go in and "tighten" the tbelt on a DSM. MAybe on every OTHER import out there... But not a turbo DSM. The tension has to be set such that the gap bewtween the tenioner arm and tensioner body is between .15 and .18 inches after it sets for about 15 minutes to expand fully. Read the vfaq, and make that toolbag read it twice, as I suggested earlier. Its no wonder people think that DSMs are unreliable when I consider the douchenozzles that are working on them... Its not really thier fualt either, they just dont realize thats its a very different system than all other cars out there. At least give him the info I gave above about having that gap right. I've done this too many times, and it still takes me half a dozen tries to get the gap in between .15 and .18. He should know how to change it (tighten the tension to get the gap smaller, and vice vera if its too small) Good luck.