2000 Windstar lower intake

[scubacat]

This may help with torquing bolts and some other specifics. The fuel rail is just 4 obvious bolts and then it just carefully lifts up with all the injectors still attached. (dab clean oil on o-rings when reinstalling.) I just held it out of the way with a bungee cord; no need to disconnect the fuel line. Don't forget to change those little white bushings while you're in there!

UPDATE --- I just noticed something -- There is a typo under step #5 of the installation instructions. It should say "2. Position the lower intake manifold.", but it actually has "3." in front. That would lead you to believe, from the diagram, that sealant goes in the middle of the manifold. This is NOT the case. It goes only on the corners. The "2" in the diagram is their way of telling you to set the manifold back down onto the heads which would correspond with step #2 if there were one. I checked real quick just now and the typo has indeed been corrected in the 2002 edition that I use.

[12Ounce]

I opened this attachment, gave it a quick read ... now, I cannot re-open it. ??

[da180]

Ok, I did the job on Sunday. It took a bit longer than planned, but I also did other misc. maintenance on it.

One thing I noticed was that all of the lower intake bolts had some type of thread sealant on them. Upon closer inspection, I could see that the bores of some went through into the coolant passage. I used the Permatex gray and all is good. I did have an interesting outcome I discovered a day later. The van seemed to run fast at a stop. I found that my brand new Purolator PCV was stuck in an open position with NO metering of vacuum. In fact when I took the oil fill cap off, it made hissing sound as I unscrewed it. A new Motorcraft brand fixed that and it runs great.

[scubacat]

Yeah, for what those cost I wouldn't use an aftermarket. Even if they don't stick it's unlikely the air flow ratio is correct anyway.