Low servo repair: transmission slip problem solve

[phil-l]

mdare35 -

Your ABS light is almost certainly unrelated to the transmission issue.

The '00 Windstar (and other years) ABS modules are notorious for errors related to the electronic portion of the ABS controller. I replaced the electronic portion of my ABS controller - and have had no further problems. Note that it's now possible for the ABS electronic module to be repaired (a service that wasn't available when replaced my module; search for "windstar abs repair service" on eBay to start your research). It's important to note that it is possible to replace the electronics portion of the ABS module without breaking into the hydraulic portion, though it's very difficult to successfully remove the appropriate fasteners if your module is corroded.

I can't comment on your o-ring question, but Piper will probably have further info.

[mdare35]

Yea I like the transmission guy I go to but that makes me wonder about him. As far as ABS I've seen on ebay a guy that rebuilds the units for like 50 bucks. So if I decide it has to have working ABS in warm weather and get really bored I might lay on my back under the windstar some afternoon pulling the unit off so I can send it for repair. My guess is that won't happen!

[phil-l]

I don't have experience with the Windstar ABS guy on eBay - but a friend use a similar service for a different car, with good results. I would have tried the service, had it been there when I had the problem.

The real challenge to this job is the 4 bolts that attach the electronic portion of the module to the hydraulic portion. The fasteners have Torx heads, so use the right tools. The fasteners themselves are steel - and the hydraulic unit is aluminum, so some corrosion is practically guaranteed. If you can remove them without damaging anything, you're home free. Reassemble with anti-seize compound!

[mdare35]

I just stopped by the transmission shop and that guy is very hesitant to to this because or age and mileage...the vans that is, ha ha. And he still thinks there is some relation between the ABS and tranny...that really seems strange, almost like he's old school mechanical and doesn't understand all these electronic gadgets?

So I think I'll order the parts and give it a whirl. Might be a couple of weeks as I assume it will take a few days for the parts to arrive and I'm going to the beach next week so sometime after that.

I'll keep you posted.

[mdare35]

On the morning commute it made 2 good 1-2 shifts with in 3 miles of my house, the third and fourth 1-2 shift after about 4 miles, bam! ABS light was off the whole trip which is only about 5 miles for me. It would have probably come on too if I had a longer drive.

[northern piper]

to answer mdare35's question about the piston, yes, there's a rubber o-ring which sits in the groove of the piston. On the pdf that you posted it looks like #6, which on the diagram is just a tiny bit smaller than the #7 which is the ring that goes inside the cap. On the very first post I did on this topic I show a really big picture of the piston top. The groove you see there is for the ring (I removed it for clarity but should likely have left it in the shot.)

The only caution I'll add is that my trans is a 2000 so there might have been some mild changes though I didn't see anything indicating that when I bought the parts.

[mdare35]

OK that makes sense as transmission parts usa has a cover o-ring (item Number 7 on the pdf and their item 29261)

I just don't see a listing for a piston o-ring. Does one come with the piston or did you just reuse the old one?

[northern piper]

no, the piston doesn't include the o-ring (or at least my kit didn't) I'd for sure order a new one. The old o-ring was slightly larger, likely due to typical wear and needed replacement. I'd suggest you replace all those soft parts when you're doing this repair.

If you can't find a number post here and I'll find it.

[northern piper]

here's a link to a blow up of the trans. http://www.bulkpart.com/2/category/AXOD.html

If you call sonax they should at least be able to provide you with a number that trans usa can use.

[12Ounce]

It always concerns me that in using some local "Joe-Blow Tranny Repair" ... you have no idea what worn parts he is willing to reuse; if stopping and ordering more parts will "keep him from finishing the job" .. in the time he has allowed.

[mdare35]

Yea that piston o-ring seems like something that definitely should be replaced but no one seems to list it separately. I'll email them direct see if they have or can get it. If not I'll let you know and you can check your records. Thanks a lot!

[mdare35]

Got all the parts in yesterday. Tonight I'll probably just gather all the needed tools and supplies and then try Thursday night to git-r-dun. I'll try and take pics to document.

[mdare35]

Well fudge, the new pin was about 1/8" longer and I stuck it in as is and when I put it in any forward gear it goes nowhere. Tomorrow I'll pull it back off and shorten it and hopefully have some forward motion.

Also interesting is my pin didn't have any o-rings on it. Just the 2 e-clips which were both still intact. There was a notch worn into the coned surface. I have a few pics but just signed up for a photo account and will post when that gets approved.

Pics of new pin next to old and new pin broken.

[mdare35]

Well I took it apart and apparently the pop I heard while tightening the cover bolts last night was the new pin breaking! Took the old pin and polished a notch on the conical part of the nose thinking maybe that was getting stuck in the hole I assume it goes into. Put it back together and very little difference in the 1-2 shift bump. Maybe a little better in that before it wouldn't bump below about 1500-2000 rpm before now maybe you can go up to 2500. But that may just be wishful thinking on my part. Since my e-clip wasn't broken I'm thinking my problem may be a solenoid rather than this servo. I may take and get the tranny back flushed to see if that helps but I hate to waste the money if I then have to turn around and dump all the fluid to get to the solenoid. I think I'm going to google some more and see if I can find other possible solutions. One I saw earlier today was someone had a 1-2 bump that was fixed by the replacing TPS even thought there weren't any codes....seems a bit fishy...

[mdare35]

Here's some instruction on how to change the shift solenoid, I might try this next

http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic955631.htm