Another pair of Ferraris: 365 Daytona and 599GTO

[mattbacon]

Thanks, Justin... I'm afraid it's probably a case of "you get what you pay for". Mine's a can of 3M "Spray Mount" from the art store. It cost £10, because it's a professional tool for some people, but it's lasted me five years of modelling, kids art projects, interior decoration and more, and there's plenty left. It just works, really well. It sticks. And then you can peel it off. And then you can stick it down again...

bestest,
M.

[mattbacon]

Just a quick one to save anyone else any trouble. Revell have mixed up the brake disk parts in the 599 instructions. The bigger callipers with the disk only half-shrouded go at the front, on the narrower wheels. The smaller callipers with the "two-thirds" shroud are for the wider rear wheels. Just goes to show... I was so worried about making sure I had the disks facing the right way that I focused entirely on the instructions, and didn't look at my reference photos, which clearly show the right disks for the right wheels... or indeed think twice. I _know_ the beefier brakes go on the front, when there's an option, but I was derailed.

bestest,
M.

[tonioseven]

This is an informative and entertaining thread. I look forward to more updates

[mattbacon]

Thanks, Antonio. It's a big update today (for the 599 at least!) Lots of work that has been going on bit by bit in the background, with no real landmarks to post about, has now started to pay dividends.

First of all... some wheels:


I don't think that you can tell that they've been prised apart and stuck back together! Paint is Zero's Graphite Grey, and they are shod in Pegasus Michelin Pilots, which should help the look a bit. The disks are sprayed with Humbrol Flat Aluminium, which has a whitey-grey look that's just right for carbon disks, washed with Citadel Devlan Mud to pop the detail, and then the shields and centres are painted with Citadel black and grey. Callipers in Humbrol spray Yellow. Test fit carefully, because on at least one pair of wheels, the raised circular moulding on the back of the spoked disk hub interfered enough with the brake disk hub raised detail that I could't close the front and back of the wheels. I had to pare it off with a sharp knife...




The bare chassis assembled. The hubs, suspension, shocks and wheel arches fit nicely if you VERY carefully follow the instructions and numbered sequence. For the back pair, get a hold of the drive shaft with a pair of tweezers and lift it as you slide the wheel arch assembly into place to pop it into the back of the hub bearing, otherwise it'll keep pushing the whole thing out of it's location.

The engine:



All done out of the box, with detail painting of the parts that Revell provide. You need to cut the tops of the location stubs for the front shocks, which come up through the wheel arches, to get a snug fit for the airbox on top of the engine. The location for the radiator is unclear -- it actually sits leaning back with only the angled side brackets on the baseplate, and the front edge sits ON TOP of the raised tab in the middle. It does NOT go with the flat lower edge glued to the baseplate, as the location tabs might suggest!



A better view of the wheels in place, showing where the callipers SHOULD be...

More to follow...

bestest,
M.

[mattbacon]

...and now on to the interior.



Doors off, you can see the various slightly different blacks, greys and carbon colours (as well as Vallejo Sunny Skintone for the tan). I think the main thing is to try to get a range to represent the different kinds of materials. The steering wheel, for example, has Citadel Chaos Black, Vallejo German Grey, Citadel Charandon Granite (which is standing in for the suede-y Alcantara everywhere it appears in the cabin), and finally Tamiya Gunmetal for an ersatz "carbon" look on some details to small to "mesh" easily)



The colour's a bit off in this image, but you can see the mesh effect on the carbon dash, the centre console, and even on the seats, where I sprayed black over a German Grey base to give the effect of the "technical fabric" the real thing is made of...



Another view where you can clearly see the different colours and textures around the cabin. The rest is all tiny brushes and Citadel colours...




The chassis mocked up. It looks like it'll fill the body quite nicely...

bestest,
M.

[mattbacon]

And finally, a few "compare and contrast" shots...





It may be my imagination, or just a front-engined GT car thing, but I think I can see a resemblance between the underpinnings of some of Maranello's finest..

bestest,
M

[andybmw7272]

That interior looks nice.
I like those colors!
Keep up the good work Matt!
Andy

[dino246gt]

Great work, it's cool to see what a difference 40 years makes!

[mattbacon]

Another quickie, while I wait for decent daylight to take some more progress pictures. It IS possible to get the bonnet/hood on the 599 to close properly. The first thing to do, before painting, is to check the fit, and if it's like mine, heat briefly in the steam from a kettle and flex the left hand front corner downward a little. YMMV, obviously, so keep test fitting until it closes into the recess properly. Then, when the time comes to fit the thing permanently, I've found that first thinning the pins by removing the upper 1/3 or so and then rounding them again with some scraping, and secondly fully rounding the upper ends of the pivot arms, gives enough room for maneouvre when the bonnet is down for it to drop properly in place while still holding it in position...

HTH somebody else!

bestest,
M.

[dingguya]

Very cool to see old and new side by side!

[hd221813]

Let me post an inspiring picture:

[tonioseven]

These are turning out to be some awesome builds!! I need to find that 599 GTO kit to replicate a car I have in Forza Motorsport 4. Keep up with the great progress pictures!!



That's the historical racing livery. Inspired on the livery from the #4153GT 250GTO which was raced by the Ecurie Francorchamps racing team.

[mattbacon]

Thanks, gentlemen. That silver colour scheme with the yellow stripe is WAAYYY cool. Is that the Ecurie Francorchamps colour scheme?

If I build another, it'll be in that scheme, for sure! Having contemplated masking a similar stripe on the Moss/Rob Walker car, I can tell you that it's not as easy as it looks, and thank goodness for properly-shaped decals!

Anyway... Still no decent light, and I've been travelling, but some progress tonight:



The headliner positioned, and painted in matching colours for the interior (it was great to see an internal cabin photo that showed it clearly in Evo.) If you look closely you can also see the trimmed ends of the bonnet supports.



I'm using the mesh for the grilles, stuck in place with "Serious Glue", which holds them in position from the off, and then if you press them finally into position after a couple of minutes, "persuades" the springy mesh to conform to the curves.... The headlights are painted to replicate the ones on the 599 GTE I spotted in London last week. The lenses are grey shades with a "catch light" as figure painters use for eyeballs... those Xenon's are weird-looking, as I know from my own car.



I've gone for carbon mirrors, and this is probably the best bit of fake carbon detailing on the whole car, though I say so myself...



The bonnet doesn't stay UP by itself yet, but you can see that the engine sits in place nicely.




..and finally a couple on the bench where we are tonight. People may complain that the detailing on this kit is a bit soft or coarse, but the firt and engineering is superb. I think Revell have got their priorities right!

bestest,
M.

[tonioseven]

Yes, it struck me like a lightning bolt when I first saw it!

[AceCobra1]

How did you flex the mesh so much to create the carbon effect? Is it a pair of tights ??