Alternator Going?

[richtazz]

Typically, alternators only put out about 60-70% of rated amperage at rpm's below 1000 or so. A heavier duty alternator may or may not help your issue at idle, especially with the add-on stereo. Since you have a quite large capacitor installed, I assume this is a pretty big watt system.

[00GTP4ME]

Eh, it's decent sized I guess. It's a 3000w amp, but I think it's only like 500 watts RMS so not crazy. The deck is a Sony 52Wx4. What's weird is that I've had this system since about April-ish and haven't had any issues until recently. What I don't get is that in the morning sometimes I won't even turn the stereo on at all and I still have the same problems. Yeah, I've noticed that the stereo can make it worse, but it still happens either way.

[BNaylor]

Typically H.O. alternators put out around 105 amps at idle which is much better than OE/stock. For example a 220 amp H.O. alternator will achieve full output at around 1200 rpm.

Another factor is the rating of the battery and reserve capacity. Thats why most people with decent aftermarket high power stereo systems not only install a H.O. alternator but a better battery like the Optima Red or Yellow tops.

Regardless wiring from the output from the alternator should be upgraded to 4 gauge main charging wiring for maximum current flow to the battery.

Based on your symptoms you could have a combination of issues. If you are going to dump a bunch of money into a system then it doesn't hurt to upgrade the basic charging system if it is stock.

[00GTP4ME]

Cool, thanks Bob.

Hmmm.... Maybe I'll try that Bosch HO alternator then. $120, 200 amp, and 1 yr warranty on it.

How difficult of a job is it to upgrade the wiring? I've never done that before on any vehicle. Do you just take a 4 gauge wire and run it straight from the alt to the battery or do you have to change out harnesses and spaghetti bowls of wiring?

[BNaylor]

No comment on Bosch stuff.

Rich probably will.

You can get H.O. alternator wiring kits ready to go from on-line stores or at auto parts stores or make your own. The wire is the alternator output wire going back to the battery positive cable/terminal. Keep in mind this should be fused. Up to 250 amp fuse. The stock setup has a fusible link.

Here's an example (instructions) from a rather pricey kit. 0 gauge kit with a 250 amp fuse.

Click here

[00GTP4ME]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

No comment on Bosch stuff.

Rich probably will.

Crap! You had to rain on my parade!!

Originally Posted by BNaylor

You can get H.O. alternator wiring kits ready to go from on-line stores or at auto parts stores or make your own. The wire is the alternator output wire going back to the battery positive cable/terminal. Keep in mind this should be fused. Up to 250 amp fuse. The stock setup has a fusible link.

Awesome, thank you! It looks like they do just "add" a BFW to the existing wiring which is easy peasy! I was really hoping that was the case!

I've measured the output at the battery, but never at the alternator. I probably should at some point.

[richtazz]

never tried a Bosch Alternator...that is all I will say!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by richtazz

never tried a Bosch Alternator...that is all I will say!

Probably for a good reason. Can't complain about the price though. But I'd pass. Had to replace the stock Bosch alternator in my Audi 100LS back in the late 70s.

[00GTP4ME]

My brother said he used to have a Bosch alternator and he loved it. He said even after a head gasket blew and drenched it in oil, it never failed.

In talking to the same brother (who worked at AZ) he confirmed that the AZ remans are garbage. He said he went through 3 or 4 in the space of a year and finally but in a new AZ alternator and hasn't had problems since. If I went that route, I'd only be out $25, but the old alternator has to test bad first. The more I watch the alt behavior, the more I'm thinking it is the regulator. There are times that I can be idling at a light with the defroster blasting, the lights on, the stereo thumping, and it doesn't flinch while staying strong at 14V. Other times nothing will be one but the blinker and that will cause voltage drops.

So I still haven't made a move yet. I'm kind of hoping it will just die like the factory one did.

[tblake]

I could help you get the factory one to die.... :P

Matt, did you get my PM response about the LCA arms? My wifi was acting up so I'm not sure it went through.

[00GTP4ME]

Originally Posted by tblake

I could help you get the factory one to die.... :P

Yeah, that's the same thing my bro told me.

Originally Posted by tblake

Matt, did you get my PM response about the LCA arms? My wifi was acting up so I'm not sure it went through.

I sure did! Thanks!