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#16 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Nvm, I did a research and came across this. Didnt know such things exist :P
![]() This is TENAX-7R, the Space Age Plastic Welder(Glue). Clear Colored Liquid Super Fast-Dry Formula, One Drop Welds A Seam, FAST Excellent For Plastic Models and Plastic Sheets How To Use Carefully Align Parts Apply TENAX-7R Directly To The Joint, One Drop At A Time (Use Sparingly) TENAX-7R Will instantly Spread Across The Joint, Hold Together for 10 Seconds. Includes One 1-Fluid Ounce Bottle. Part #: 12TNX01 $3.99
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To each his own! Read the FAQ you faqer ![]() Evo Meet....coming to a forum near you! ![]() Completed!-Click on Pic: ![]() Projects done and posted: Subaru WRC2001 RGB-My first project in AF Click HereIn stocks: Ferrari F1 2001 Tyrrell P34 CLK Warsteiner Ford Performance Blue Ferrari Enzo Opel Team Holzer Williams FW24 |
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#17 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Austin, Texas
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But, is it any better than Liquid-poly or Testor liquid cement? They've been available for years, and do a great job welding parts. (Tamiya has a similar one, too.)
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#18 | |
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AF Regular
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i've been using plastistruct bondene glue which works the same the tenax. i haven't tried the tenax but i've used the bondene for all my projects dating back to when i was doing gundam and sci-fi models. the bondene stuff contains dichloromethane which is known to the state of california to cause cancer. all items know to cause cancer or potential to cause cancer has to, by law, state that it does so on the label. so... i don't know what tenax or p-man's source for this new liquid glue contains but any solvent that can evaporate that quick and melt plastic may certainly enter your bloodstream through your skin and cause undocumented harm. so just be careful using this stuff and don't arbitrarily pour some excess glue on your hand just to see it evaporate and experience that evaporated aclohol sensation on your hands.
a. ps. this stuff is alot better than ths testors stuff as the bonded plastic dries and provides strength much much faster. |
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#19 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
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Quote:
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#20 | ||
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Mar 2003
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Quote:
Is this the one you r talking about hirofkd?
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To each his own! Read the FAQ you faqer ![]() Evo Meet....coming to a forum near you! ![]() Completed!-Click on Pic: ![]() Projects done and posted: Subaru WRC2001 RGB-My first project in AF Click HereIn stocks: Ferrari F1 2001 Tyrrell P34 CLK Warsteiner Ford Performance Blue Ferrari Enzo Opel Team Holzer Williams FW24 |
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#21 | |
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"P-Man"
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That TENAX-7R stuff sounds similar.
All i can say is "go and get some as its amazing stuff" christofurr....As for as i know it is only made in PNth at www.mrmodels.co.nz
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Current Build.....1/12 Scale Camaro......Almost finished!!! ![]() ![]() View All My Models Here. |
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#22 | |
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Non-profit Organisation
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Hmmm
Looks like its Palmy road trip time ![]() Up for a bbq Warren?
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#23 | ||
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"P-Man"
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Quote:
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Current Build.....1/12 Scale Camaro......Almost finished!!! ![]() ![]() View All My Models Here. |
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#24 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Gold Coast
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Re - New?Glue
P Man. It sounds as though the liquid glue you are talking about is something I first used back in NZ over 25years ago. It is/was commonly used by model railroaders which is how I came across it with my late father at Stokers Model Shop in Greenlane, Auckland. They called it something else to do with there own name just like your local shop appears to have done if my suspicions are correct.
I found out quite by accident from a friend who worked in a paint shop who smelt my bottle one day when I had it open on the bench that it is actually called M.E.K. or Methyl Ethyl Keytone and yes it is a solvent. It is used for cleaning amongst other things electronic circuit boards, hearing aids etc. As for affecting paint - it sure does! It will strip it as quick as a flash and because it gets trapped under the paint residue it then starts to work on your model by softening the plastic and I have noticed it will actually swell the plastic a little. You can try to sand it back but it is as though it has changed the chemical structure of the plastic and turned it porous. If you are holding two parts together and a little runs between your finger and the plastic I gaurantee a perfect fingerprint on your model. I still use it today with the results you have described on UNPAINTED plastic. Itwill fuse any 2 bits of styrene together as if welded. It is available from Marine shops here in Australia under its own name. A word of caution though about getting it on your skin. In some people it has been known to effect skin. |
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#25 | |
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AF Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2002
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So is the Tamiya extra-thin cement anytthing like that Tenax or Milfix? Might have to pick up a bottle!
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#26 | |
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AF Regular
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i've been using Ambroid Pro Weld for a long time now and i think its great!!!
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#27 | ||
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Quote:
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#28 | |
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AF Enthusiast
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talking about glue,
one friend of mine, do not use glue, really, he use nitro thinner, it disolves a little the plastic and literally solder the pieces.
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_835_ from ASPHALT models IN PROGRESS / WAITING Too much to list all And so many project in my head.... |
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#29 | |
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Car Mod guy
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I use nothing more that Humborl Liquid Poly and the Revell stuff with the hyperdermic type applicator. I've been wanting to try some of that Tenax stuff for a while, i guess its worth a try if you guys say there is a noticeable difference.
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#30 | ||
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Quote:
, what's the retail on it? They have quite a good selection of kits though. Could be worth a drive up there one weekend soon to have a look around, maybe pick up a couple of new kits . |
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