Passlock System

[Zelig]

Well, I just got through installing the switch. It was so much easier than I thought. It only took me about 35-40 minutes, and I'm really not much of an auto mechanic.

I left the car off when I cut the yellow wire and installed the switch. I didnt solder it, I just twisted the wires together and taped them up, same on the switch. I didnt even mount the switch in the dash or anything. I just left it hanging in the back of the dash. You really cant see it unless you just stick your head down there and look up, but its still easy to get to if I need to enable it again.

I started the car up with the switch closed and it started up fine. After several seconds I turned the switch to the open position. At first nothing happened, then after about 2-3 seconds the 'theft system' light came on and stayed on. I turned the car off and on several times and it started up fine each time. I just stuck a piece of black electrical tape over the light.

I know I just did a cheap, quick method. But all I cared about is getting this to work. I got tired of getting stuck waiting 10 minutes for the passlock to reset. On average it would hapen about once a month, but in the last 2 weeks it happened about 5 times and I was just fed up.

I'll post an update after several weeks and let you know how its going..

I just wanted to offer a big thanks to everyone on here who contributed. Especially to the guy who posted screenshots. You guys were a big help.

-Zelig

Originally Posted by Zelig

Hi everyone,

I just had a couple of questions.
I, like everyone else here, have been having problems with the passlock on my 2001 Chevy Mailbu. I have read through all the posts here (took me a long time, lol!) as well as on some other message boards, and I decided I'm going to install the toggle switch.

Many people have said that you need to have the engine running before cutting the yellow wire. And that makes sense if all I'm going to do is cut the wire and cap off the ends. But if I'm using a toggle switch. I should be able to cut the wire and install the switch with the engine off, and just make sure the switch is in closed position when starting the car. Then just put the switch in open position after its started. I mean, thats essentially the same thing right?

Another thing I wanted to bring up is someone (forgot the name, sorry) was saying that he didnt recommend installing a toggle switch (use resistor instead) because if the battery konks out, the car wont start. Which again makes sense, but I mean, if that happens the switch can just be placed back into the closed position after the new battery is put in (or charged) and started as normal...or am I incorrect on this? I have seen other sites where they said this can be done.
The reason I would rather use the switch instead of a resistor is because I have never done soldering before and would rather not try it for the first time on my car...LOL! But a switch should be very easy for me to wire in.

Thanks,

[rsimpalals]

I have a 2002 impala ls that has this problem, i want to do one of the methods that have been discused but how in the heck to you get to the radio to pull it out...it looks like you have to pull the dash off. That dash goes althe way across to the passenger side, I wish it was split. I did find the screws that look it they hold the panel on but im sure there are clips also, can anyone give some advice on taking the plastic dash off?. I could go to the junk yard and try to find one and experiment, but hate to do that just incase there is a part that someone may need.

Thanks!
al

[Angel4711]

I have a 1998 Chevy Malibu that I bought used in December 2007 (a month ago) and it just started having this problem, which is how I found this site.

My poor husband was spending hours outside jumping my car with his and trying over and over again to get my car working. He kept adjusting the jumper cables on the battery terminals thinking that might work, but nothing was getting my car to start.

The first time it happened, I was able to unlock my car (in a grocery store parking lot), open the trunk, load up the groceries, but then I tried to start it and nothing happened. No lights, no radio, no AC, no start. My husband met me there, jumped the car and it was fine. I was so mad because I just bought a new battery when I got the car a month before.

Now, the next time I tried to start it was a few days later. This time, the lights in the car, the radio and AC came on when the key got to the ACC line, but then everything went dead when I tried to start it up. We tried jumping it, but it didn't work. It was at time that I noticed the flashing lights below the steering wheel that apparently have something to do with the security system. I'd looked up an owner's manual online and had read about it prevously (from what I remember, unless it recognizes the right key, it prevents gas from getting to the engine, making your car a doorstop), but I didn't know it had anything to do with that funny black key-looking-thing under the steering wheel. Now that it was blinking, it got my attention. It did slow red blinking, fast red blinking, slow green blinking, but nothing really consistent that I noticed. In any case, I figured now that it probably had something to do with the security system rather than the battery. Still, just in case, my husband tried for about half and hour and then we sadly canceled our for-the-first-time-in-a-month dinner plans since it was now too late at night.

The next time I tried to start the car, which was the next day, my husband tried starting it again. He managed to get it started once and left the car running (doors locked) for about an hour hoping to recharge the alternator. We went to start it later and the same thing--the car went dead when I tried to start it. So, I went to the computer and he went back to the jumper cables.

I saw a thread about cutting wires, but that scared me, so I kept reading. I saw another idea of permanently disabling the security system, but that would cost money, too, and I can't work, so I kept reading. Finally, I saw the answer to my prayers in the post that said to put in the key, put the car in neutral, and then start it and that has been working like a dream!!

SUMMARY: If your car's dome/dash lights come on when you stick the key in, but then everything dies when you try to start the car, check under the steering wheel. If lights are blinking, it might be the security system. So, before you spend a zillion dollars on this, try putting the key in (don't start, but you can stick it in ACC), then put the car in neutral, then start. For about the next 6 times I've started my car, it has worked without a problem!!

[slls]

Ponchonutty , have you read the post before mine.

[foxtrot]

Originally Posted by rsimpalals

I have a 2002 impala ls that has this problem, i want to do one of the methods that have been discused but how in the heck to you get to the radio to pull it out...it looks like you have to pull the dash off. That dash goes althe way across to the passenger side, I wish it was split. I did find the screws that look it they hold the panel on but im sure there are clips also, can anyone give some advice on taking the plastic dash off?. I could go to the junk yard and try to find one and experiment, but hate to do that just incase there is a part that someone may need.

Thanks!
al

I have a 2002 Monte Carlo, I thik they are similer but have never seen inside an Impalla. I thought the dash went all the way across I just got pissed and pulled on it and presto the cover came of the intrument pannel and radio.
Thats as far as I have gone so far. Sitting in the driveway half apart.

[foxtrot]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Sounds like you have a faulty ignition switch and not necessarly a PK2 issue.

Well isnt the passlock part of that switch? Im asuming you mean the box that plugs into the locking cylinder.

I am just wondering if I replace that, about $230 and then it turns out to be the BCM at about $105.
What is weird is it will start every time when it is cold, but only fail when it it warm. The other day is was warm but the car was cold and it would not start. Something is tempature sensative.

[foxtrot]

Originally Posted by logoody

Either the toggle or the resistor method requires soldering unless you care to mount the toggle right next to the ignition switch which will need a hole in the dash. You will need to extend the wires and using crimp on terminals is not a good method although it will work. I actually went through the resistor install and then again had problems starting. Turns out the ignition switch itself was all carboned up and needed replacement which took less time then the resistor method.

The switch was $100 and I left the resistor in.

goody

Is this switch a fit all type of part?

Another thing that got my attention in your post, when my problems first started, I remeber pulling my key out and it had something on it, like there was some gunky stuff in the lock. Did nt think much of it at the time.

[drvnguy]

Originally Posted by raycorri

Here is a re-write of the GM upfitter bulletins ( http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull2wsA.pdf and http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf ) so that we can more readily apply it to our cars! There is no need to add a remote starter.



PASSLOCK I or II DISABLEMENT

The following is a procedure to disable Passlock I or II Systems for vehicles in which remote start/stop system installations are required. This procedure is required because a remote start system will not function with the current Theft Deterrent System (Passlock) which is included on many 1996 and up GM vehicles.

Please note that this modification is intended to be used only in conjunction with the installation of a remote start/stop system and does not provide a procedure to install a remote start/stop system.

CAUSE
If an attempt is made to start a vehicle by a means other than a key rotation in the ignition switch, the Body Control Module (BCM) will interpret this start as a vehicle theft and disable the fuel injectors.

CORRECTION
A minor wiring modification may be made to allow the vehicle to be started remotely. This modification includes adding a switch to allow the customer to select “ON” to disable Passlock or “OFF” for normal Passlock operation.

CAUTION: When this modification is performed and the switch is set to the ON position, the theft deterrent feature will be disabled. When the theft deterrent is disabled the SECURITY or THEFT telltale will light up indicating that the theft deterrent system is NOT functioning.

PASSLOCK MODIFICATION
Refer to appropriate GM service manuals and/or SVMQP Electrical Guideline Manual for instruction on splicing and electrical connections.
1. Select a suitable on-off switch (see note below) which will be used to disable/
enable the Passlock System. Mount the switch in a location such that it is
accessible to the driver and will not interfere with normal vehicle operation.
NOTE: This is an extremely low current circuit (approx. 7mA), it is therefore very important that a high quality, low energy, fast acting switch be utilized
for this application.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Locate the Main Ignition Switch Harness. GM's Passlock System wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and then join with the Main Ignition Switch Harness. (See http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ or http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp and select your Make, Model and Year for wire colors and clues on the quickest way to access these wires.)
4. Locate the Yellow Passlock Data Wire which is included in a bundle of three tiny (20 GA) wires wrapped in friction tape.
Cut this wire and splice a 0.5mm2 (20 GA) yellow wire to each end of the cut wire.
Keep wire length to a minimum. Route modification wires clear of moving parts.
Connect the yellow wires to the switch such that the contacts are OPEN when the switch is in the ON position.
5. Turn modification switch to the OFF postion (contacts closed).
6. Start vehicle to verify normal operation. If engine “cranks but will not start"
recheck the switch position (contacts should be closed), wire connectors and
modification wiring.

SWITCH OPERATION

To enable remote start:
Start the engine with the ignition key (modification switch must be in the OFF
position). Turn modification switch to the ON position (contacts open). The
SECURITY or THEFT telltale will light up indicating that the Passlock System is inoperative.
Once the SECURITY or THEFT telltale has been on for at least 5 seconds the vehicle can be turned off and then remotely started.

To disable remote start:
The Passlock System can be reactivated by turning the modification switch OFF
(contacts closed). Vehicle can either be running or off when this is done.

Please note that the VCM/PCM will record Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) related to the security system when the modification switch is in the ON position (circuit open). This is due to the way that the VCM/PCM interprets this condition.

NOTICE
Any condition which removes battery power from the Vehicle Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (VCM/PCM) (e.g. dead battery, disconnected harness connectors, etc.) will prevent the vehicle from being restarted. If the engine exhibits a “cranks but will not start” symptom, place the modification switch in the OFF (contacts closed) position. This will reactivate the Passlock System and allow the vehicle to be started with the ignition key.

Ray

Proud Member of The Anti-Passlock Club

I spent all morning doing this operation exactly how its states ,with my 98 malibu ,My wife has a remote start unit installed (aftermarket) and will not function properly or start with this theft system active ,,so I went out got my good quality switch ,installed it cut the yellow wire and tested it first before making any soldering connections . switch off first turned car on ,flicked switch to on /open connection and theft light appeared and stayed on . waited 10 seconds to registar ,shut car off . than waited a few minutes ,used remote start it worked great ,but there was no light on dash (theft light ) only when i used my key did it illuminate and stay on . ....

45 minutes goes by after a coffee ,i tried the remote start and Shoooot .
it did not work ,theft light started flashing again ,I dodnt understand why within 30 minutes of using the remote it works fine but when it sits for more that 45 min the theft system acts up evan though the switch was left on and connections opened ?????.. grrrrrrrrr.. could it actually be a faulty lock cylinder after all ..

thanks for any input

[dooser1]

I was recently working on my friends 99 Sunfire with the same passlock issues. Intermittent starting, Theft Light on, fuel system dissabled, etc.

I was running thru the relearn sequence when I stumbled across the solution to the problem. I had the key in the run position and tilted the steering wheel upward to get out of the car, upon doing this I heard the fuel pump kick on and the theft light went out, so I turned the key and the car started fine. Then I shut it off, tried it again and it started right up again. So I started to think that maybe it was related to the postion of the steering wheel. I moved the steering wheel back to the down positon and sure enough, the car wouldn't start and the theft light was on again. At this point I decided I needed to remove the steering column shrouds and find the cause. After removing the shounds, I turned the key to the run position and tilted the steering wheel up, and again the fuel pump kicked on and the theft light turned off. I found that the cause of the problem was the ignition harness didn't have enough slack and the connector at the left side of the column was being pulled outward (not completely out) every time the steering wheel was tilted down, and then pushed back into place when the steering wheel was tilted back up. I zip tied the connector to hold it in place, tested it with the steering wheel in all positions, and now it starts everytime without the theft light coming on.

Thought I would throw this out there as another thing to check for when dealing with this dreaded Passlock system, and THEFT Light.

Good Luck!

[WMM]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

That particular symptom sure sounds like a bad ignition switch. It's very common on these cars.

Well, I finally got around to putting a new ignition switch in (Borg Warner) and I still have the same problem. When I turn the key to on all the dash lights go out and the theft light comes on, it does not blink, it comes on and stays on, I know at this point if I turn the key farther to start the car will not start. However, I have found a work around, when I give a little flick of my wrist when I turn the key from off to run all the dash lights come on and I can proceed to turn the key to start and the car starts right up. This was the case with the old swith and the new switch. I skimed through all the posts on this thread and I didn't see this exact problem.

Do you think I got a bad ignition switch (it was just the metal part that the key fits in, the auto part store called the part "ignition switch") or do you think there is something else wrong?

2003 malibu 3.1

Thanks for any help.

[slls]

Originally Posted by WMM

Well, I finally got around to putting a new ignition switch in (Borg Warner) and I still have the same problem. When I turn the key to on all the dash lights go out and the theft light comes on, it does not blink, it comes on and stays on, I know at this point if I turn the key farther to start the car will not start. However, I have found a work around, when I give a little flick of my wrist when I turn the key from off to run all the dash lights come on and I can proceed to turn the key to start and the car starts right up. This was the case with the old swith and the new switch. I skimed through all the posts on this thread and I didn't see this exact problem.

Do you think I got a bad ignition switch (it was just the metal part that the key fits in, the auto part store called the part "ignition switch") or do you think there is something else wrong?

2003 malibu 3.1

Thanks for any help.

You need a new ignition switch, has nothing to do with the key, it is electrical. What you replaced was the key assy?

[WMM]

Originally Posted by slls

You need a new ignition switch, has nothing to do with the key, it is electrical. What you replaced was the key assy?

Thanks for the response. The part I replaced was called an ignition switch by the auto parts store and according to my Haynes manual it was the ignition switch. It was a solid piece of metal (its the part the key goes into). But, it does plug into a large black plastic (my memory is a little fuzzy on this part) piece and all the wires plug into that and the metal piece I replaced slides into the center of that. It sounds like I need a new black plastic piece. Does that have a name? Do some people call the combination of the metal piece and the black plastic piece the ignition switch?

Thanks.

[slls]

Originally Posted by WMM

Thanks for the response. The part I replaced was called an ignition switch by the auto parts store and according to my Haynes manual it was the ignition switch. It was a solid piece of metal (its the part the key goes into). But, it does plug into a large black plastic (my memory is a little fuzzy on this part) piece and all the wires plug into that and the metal piece I replaced slides into the center of that. It sounds like I need a new black plastic piece. Does that have a name? Do some people call the combination of the metal piece and the black plastic piece the ignition switch?

Thanks.

The part with all the wires is the ignition switch. It gets confusing because it is normally called the ignition key, but the ignition switch is electrical and not the same thing. I am not familiar with the Malibu set up, I have yet to get into my 04 Malibu, on my truck there is a rod going from the key assy to the ignition switch. It should have lots of heavy wires, the main feed should be red.

[WMM]

Originally Posted by slls

The part with all the wires is the ignition switch. It gets confusing because it is normally called the ignition key, but the ignition switch is electrical and not the same thing. I am not familiar with the Malibu set up, I have yet to get into my 04 Malibu, on my truck there is a rod going from the key assy to the ignition switch. It should have lots of heavy wires, the main feed should be red.

Ya, I get it now. I think I replaced the ignition lock cyclinder. Ok, I guess back to the auto parts store. Hopefully I can buy the ignition switch without the lock cyclinder since I already have one of those.

Thank you for the info.

[bighoss66]

My wife's 2004 Chevy malibu classic's engine will not turn over. The head lights come on, the radio and a/c works but the starter does not turn the engine over. I have jumped it at the starter and it runs until I shut off the key. Does this sound like the passlock issue or something else.... it is driving me . A reply would be much appreciated.