Tamiya or Aztek Airbrush's

[Martbee]

Ok, here I am... after the week-wend.
Stephendeli, don't waste time on doing a how-to on how to empty a TS can... here it is:
Ts paint in Airbrush

For Acrylics paint from Tamiya, let dry a month and if you have to do some little handeling, you're ok ! Don't do too much handeling though because the X paint don't have a hard shell but YES, it will have a glossy finish as good as their TS paint. I have a "Ford F100 Harley Davidson Panel truck" to prove it... X-1 is a real black ! Not all the X paint act as well. The problem is the X-22 Clear... this stuff don't seem to get hard (and stay hard) at all !!! You always have to be carefull not to push too hard on it or you'll end up with a fingerprint on the finish. Needeless to say it'll scrap the model and the realism of it ! I have a model with this stuff (great finish though) and even a year after the final shooting I had to be very careful with the fingers passing by.

And finaly, if you think New Jersey weather suck... try Canada for a week !!!

[pettercardoso]

Guys, I'm back with more questions

I still haven't made my mind about the right airbrush to buy (and I still don't have enough money eheheh). Initially I intended to buy the Iwata Revolution (as per your recomendations), but I absolutely adore the HP-C (for it's looks and price - more expensive = better?).
But a friend of mine has come to me with a very good question that I could not answer and I was hoping that you airbrush masters would help me .
That friend owns a Badger 150 and he told me that metallic particles get stuck in the nozzle and in the cup (using acrylics-fast drying). The colour cup on the HP-C is not separate, so I'd have to dip the "entire" airbrush in airbrush cleaner/paint thinner to clean it.

What are you comments on this?

Thank you,
Pedro.

[Vric]

sure, it's fun to have a separate colorcup.
You can use your own airbrush to clean it.

I don't know the best way to clean that, but diping the entire front of the airbrush seam the only solution... and even there, the thinner would go quite dirty fast and you will need to do 2 or 3 dip in fresh tinner... not quite economic.

My anthem have a separate color cup, So I just use the glass jar full of thinner to spray thinner on the color cup. get clean preaty fast. I'm a bit paranoid wiith the cleaning, so it take me 20 minute everytime to fully clean my airbrush (after few use, it's still look new and shiny)

As for metallic particles, the only one I used are ModelMaster Metallizer and Tamiya, and particles are so small that then don't get stuck

[Martbee]

Well, I have a 360 Universal from Badger that is this way, no way to detatch the little cup... I'll try to teach you my way of cleaning it ! The way I found to work great (not the only one but...) is to use a Pipette ! I don't even know the translation of it but this is a little plastic device to count the drop you're using... like in laboratory ! I fill it with thinner and I put it's nozzle into the little cup on the Airbrush, I empty it but right after, I refill it from the juice in the cup, then empty then repump the same old juice over and over to create a kind of mini vortex of mixture... no new thinner is use until the 10th time or so. When the juice from this particular process is quite messy, you have the choice to push the Airbrush's trigger or if the particules are too big, just empty it by turning it down. You can take another pipette of bran new thinner and again do this trick until the airbrush is clean... this trick can unpluged all the particules, big or small... well, it always worked for me.

[pettercardoso]

Thank you very much for your answers, guys. I really apreciate it!

oh, and Martbee, I know exactly what a pipette is

Again, thank you!

Regards,
Pedro.

[ImolaEK]

Great! Now i know not to use Tamiya Acrylics for bodies, thanks guys.

One more question, If i drain the TS paints to airbrush them, when i airbrush it will it still stink like it does from the can? Or will the smell be less stronger.

^ Thats one of the reasons i hate using TS paints indoors


Edit: PS: Once i drain it into a bottle how long could it last inside the bottle without maybe getting bad?

[StephenDeli]

Still stinks

[ImolaEK]

Originally Posted by StephenDeli

Still stinks

Aww crap! I guess i'll have to get or make a spray booth

[Vric]

hummm. TS paint smell really good to me....

once drained, it won't last long. few hours for my experience

[ImolaEK]

Originally Posted by Vric

hummm. TS paint smell really good to me....

once drained, it won't last long. few hours for my experience

Arghhh! Only a few hours. I was hoping for a few weeks!

Well guys im running out of the Airbrush cleaner that the Eclipse came with. Whats my other option of cleaning it. I sprayed some water the other day to get it cleaned and it seemed to work a bit. I also took it all apart and saw that the needle had some paint on it and tried to wipe it gently with a towel as instructed on the Owners Manual but the paint didn't come off, Also it seems like paint likes to stay where the bottle goes in, i tried to run some water through the inlet to get it out but there was still some paint there But it is still working fine. I will try to go this weekend, since i couldn't last weekend, to the place where i bought it ready to ask plenty of questions. Maybe even take the airbrush over there to see if im doing correctly.

Pedro: The HP-C is a very cool looking one, i saw it at the store when i bought my Eclipse. I liked the fact that it came with a .3 nozzle (my eclipse comes with a .5 nozzle) and that the HP-C is gravity feed. But the eclipse gives you the option of pulling back the needle from the back meaning that all the paint will shoot out while you handle the airbrush from the middle and the back (more control) which i guess will be better to shoot paint on a model. Both are great and sometimes i wonder if i should've bought the an HP (High Performance) series airbrush but then again the HP series costs a bit more. GTmike owns an HP-BC so he could tell you more about the airbrush. Maybe in the future i'll buy an HP airbrush.

[ImolaEK]

Has anyone used this paint for models?

http://www.dixieart.com/CreatexAutoAir.html

I have heard of some paint done by testors called Boyd or something like that. Is that for airbrush? How good is it?

[Vric]

Cleaner:
For Tamiya Acrylic paint: Go to your wallmart, and buy some windex. Work wonder.

For Testor Enamel: Go to your hardware store and buy a 4 Gallon of Enamel thinner for less than 3$

For Lacquer (such as Model Master Metallizer): Go to hardware store and buy Lacquer Thinner (this one will be in a metal can) usually a 1 Gallon will cost 3$

For Acrylic such as Model Master or testor: Watter work, but if the paint is dried, you will need Lacquer Thinner. This stuff clean everything

[StephenDeli]

TS paint has sat a week in a jar for me!

[ImolaEK]

Great i'll get some Windex soon.

Also has any of you guys bought from DetailandDesigninScale.com?

I bought some Alclad II off the site and paid with paypal since saturday and they still haven't cleared my payment?

[Vric]

yes I alreay bought from him.. 2 times.. without problem.
I had a problem on my second order, but he solved it without problem. good store !