fixing an oil leak 3.8

[Pixies dad]

Has anyone ever been able to replace the REAR rocker arm cover gasket without taking the whole top end apart? Got a leaker in the back and want to fix this one nagging problem....My best guess is that the whole top end has to come off to gain access to the cover....and as long as that is the only way, maybe it is time to replace all the top end gaskets......any thoughts?

[rkvons]

Originally Posted by Pixies dad

Has anyone ever been able to replace the REAR rocker arm cover gasket without taking the whole top end apart? Got a leaker in the back and want to fix this one nagging problem....My best guess is that the whole top end has to come off to gain access to the cover....and as long as that is the only way, maybe it is time to replace all the top end gaskets......any thoughts?

Don't know what year you have, but Autozone says this about the 3.8L.

RIGHT SIDE (REAR)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Remove the acoustic/cosmetic engine cover.
3. Remove the rear alternator brace.
4. Tag for identification and remove the right (rear) spark plug wires.
5. Remove the engine cover retaining bracket from the exhaust manifold studs.
6. Remove the right (rear) engine lift bracket from the exhaust manifold studs.
7. Remove the rocker arm cover bolts and remove the cover from the engine. Do not pry it off. Bump the cover sideways with a rubber mallet if it is stuck. Discard the gasket.

[Pixies dad]

Thanks - I read the AZ instructions and viewed you tubes of the 3.8. BUT the APV has the motor so deep in the body you cannot even see the rear bank, much less work on it. Seems to me that the complete upper intake, alternator, coil pack and wiring harness have to be moved and maybe the dogbone removed and engine rolled to even get at the rear bank. I was hoping someone had attempted this and could give me an idea of how much work this is. Maybe it is best to farm it out?

[rkvons]

Originally Posted by Pixies dad

Thanks - I read the AZ instructions and viewed you tubes of the 3.8. BUT the APV has the motor so deep in the body you cannot even see the rear bank, much less work on it. Seems to me that the complete upper intake, alternator, coil pack and wiring harness have to be moved and maybe the dogbone removed and engine rolled to even get at the rear bank. I was hoping someone had attempted this and could give me an idea of how much work this is. Maybe it is best to farm it out?

Oh, I see. On my '98, I can chock the wheels and remove the front dog bone motor mounts and tilt the engine forward (you can't be in park and do this). You have to be careful not to go too far forward with the engine, but it does give you more room. It is a pain in the butt though.

[LMP]

THe '98 has the 60° 3.4, the heads are much closer and the body has changed also in '97. The 90° 3.8 has a very wide top and the problem is total. FOr changing the rear plugs from under, http://www.avigex.ca/xport/rearplugs.jpg I have lowered the rear subframe 2 inches (2 large bolts to remove and use a jack for control) ..no more than 2 inches limited by the steering column...if disconnect the steering coupling one may go near 5 inches.(when changing steering rack http://www.avigex.ca/xport/rackremoval.jpg) I do not know if this can help for the valve cover though...