What will happen if tranny fliud overfilled

[xiaodoupi]

Hi there,

I am a newbie to Chevy Lumina, I bought a 1999 Lumina 3.1 for 600 bucks last week.
I know before I bought that has leaking lower intake gasket. Antifreeze and some oil drips underneath slowly. But drives nicely.
But today I suprisingly found some reddish tranny fluid on the floor, after I turned it around to make it sitting back in the garage.
I checked the dipstick. It's obviously overfilled. I pumped out through dipstick tube for over 1 qt, less than 2 qt, until the max level on the dipstick.

Since I am not familiar with Lumina, is anyone could tell me if overfilled tranny fluid will overflow (overfilled for 1-2 qt beyond the max level)? Or there is some other leak point I need to find out?

Thanks buddies

[Schurkey]

Was the engine RUNNING when you checked the trans fluid level?

[xiaodoupi]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Was the engine RUNNING when you checked the trans fluid level?

Nope. Is it normal that the fluid beyond max level a lot when shut off?

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by xiaodoupi

Nope. Is it normal that the fluid beyond max level a lot when shut off?

Yes. Engine must be running and at normal operating temperature when checking trans fluid. Shift into each gear, and then back to "neutral" or "Park" before checking.

You might want to read the owner's manual for your vehicle.

Sounds like you need some leaks repaired.

[jeffcoslacker]

Sounds like you're a little new to car maintenance/repair...no worries, we all were at some point. That's how we learn.

Pretty much all automatic transmissions the fluid level is checked with the car at operating temp, sitting on a level surface and in PARK, engine idling.

If read with the motor off, it's going to show probably like it's overfilled by 1-2 quarts. When it's running, the fluid is in motion, pumping through the hydraulic circuits. You are reading the static level in the sump.

You need to fill it correctly and get that lower intake repaired. The bad part of the LIM gasket leak is not that it leaks externally, but usually is passing oil to coolant and vice-versa. Oil in coolant turns into an unholy mess and affects the cooling system in many ways, destroying hoses and plastic tanks of the radiator, etc, and coolant in the oil will rapidly destroy the bottom end (crank and rod bearings) and the engine will become a paperweight.

[xiaodoupi]

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

Sounds like you're a little new to car maintenance/repair...no worries, we all were at some point. That's how we learn.

Pretty much all automatic transmissions the fluid level is checked with the car at operating temp, sitting on a level surface and in PARK, engine idling.

If read with the motor off, it's going to show probably like it's overfilled by 1-2 quarts. When it's running, the fluid is in motion, pumping through the hydraulic circuits. You are reading the static level in the sump.

You need to fill it correctly and get that lower intake repaired. The bad part of the LIM gasket leak is not that it leaks externally, but usually is passing oil to coolant and vice-versa. Oil in coolant turns into an unholy mess and affects the cooling system in many ways, destroying hoses and plastic tanks of the radiator, etc, and coolant in the oil will rapidly destroy the bottom end (crank and rod bearings) and the engine will become a paperweight.

Yes, you guys are right. When I recheck with engine running, I put those exceed fluid back.

Then I tried to find the exact leaking position. I found the wetting area start from where the drive shaft connected with transmission (left drive shaft seal), and the reddish fluid continues to drip slowly, after I cleaned the transmission pan with brake cleaner.

Is that mean probably I found the problem, and need to replace the seal? Is it a common issue with this model?

PS. Yes I am pretty new to auto maintenance. The biggest work I have done is replacing the intake gaskets on a Ford 3.8 engine. Of cuz step by step according to the service manual. Not too bad so far.
Many thanks

[jeffcoslacker]

It's not a problem I've seen much at all on GM transmissions...if it looks like a newer cv shaft, maybe someone damaged it putting the new shaft in. Otherwise they usually don't go bad unless the output bearing is worn and letting the shaft stub wallow around in there and wreck the seal.

[xiaodoupi]

Update:

After replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gasket, I started to fight with the suspension.
It's really tough job. Looks more straight forward than engine job, but every step challanges. I rented many stuff from oreilly to take off the tie rod and lower ball joint (only the fork works). Eventually after I bought a 3lb hammer, they gave up. I made a big mistake, a lesson learnt. I punched the bolts on tie rod end and ball joint pretty hard, so the thread was mushroomed. When I tried to put everything back, the bolt spins with nut>_<
Of cuz I also fought alot with the drive axle and the seal ring, that's another story.

I just ordered new tie rod end and ball joint on ebay for $19 something at all. The Chinese price always beats all, God bless China!

My next challenge is how to take the rusted tie rod end bolt loose, and how to drill the ball joint rivets off. Any tips? I have read the factory service manual, it says use 1/8 drill bit to drill a pilot hole, then use 1/2 bit to finish the job. I am not sure if 1/2 (~13mm) drill bit is too big? Anyone did this before?

Thanks guys

[xiaodoupi]

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

It's not a problem I've seen much at all on GM transmissions...if it looks like a newer cv shaft, maybe someone damaged it putting the new shaft in. Otherwise they usually don't go bad unless the output bearing is worn and letting the shaft stub wallow around in there and wreck the seal.

Thanks for the advise
I just pull the drive axle, and replaced the seal ring. Transmission fluid leaks from the hole directly. I cannot see any wrong on the rubber seal on the old ring, maybe it's not visible.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by xiaodoupi

I just ordered new tie rod end and ball joint on ebay for $19 something at all. The Chinese price always beats all, God bless China!

I hope I'm not around when you figure out how cheap parts create extra problems including but not limited to poor fitment and short service life.

From where I sit, China, and the Communist Collaborators here in America, have managed to screw-up just about every industry they've taken over using "low-price" tactics.

[xiaodoupi]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

I hope I'm not around when you figure out how cheap parts create extra problems including but not limited to poor fitment and short service life.

From where I sit, China, and the Communist Collaborators here in America, have managed to screw-up just about every industry they've taken over using "low-price" tactics.

Alright, that's another sad story.
Anyway, those chinese junk gives you another option to choose.