95 Windstar Front End Problem

[scubacat]

Was that because it was a camry or because you were in newton county? (hah - kidding)

My camry is a 2002 V6 - talk about NO working room for ANYTHING. I'm already dreading next timing belt change and it's not due for another 40-50K.

[uzzo2]

Originally Posted by scubacat

Was that because it was a camry or because you were in newton county? (hah - kidding)

My camry is a 2002 V6 - talk about NO working room for ANYTHING. I'm already dreading next timing belt change and it's not due for another 40-50K.

Probably a little of both, his was a V6 as well. I still have nightmares about it. But hey, at least we weren't in Porterdale.

[tempfixit]

Here is a link for a remanufactored rack and pinion with lifetime warranty $84 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150557114355...84.m1438.l2649

[uzzo2]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

Here is a link for a remanufactored rack and pinion with lifetime warranty $84 shipped:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150557114355...84.m1438.l2649

Man that's a great deal, my only concern with that would be is if I had a problem with it. I would then have to pay the return shipping on it. Have you dealt with them before and had a good result? I can get one from Advance for $98.00 with the same warranty.

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

A reman rack and pinion, complete with new inner tie rod joints, will set you back around $100 - $130 before taxes. I would replace outers at the same time, maybe include anti-sway bushings and links also ... and be done with it.

Dunno if 95-98 models are anything like 99-03's but replacing sway bar bushings is such a deceptively arduous ordeal that I wouldn't be surprised to hear him uttering expletives from way up here. "It's a 5-min job, 10-min tops" said the NAPA guy. Yeah right, more like 3 hours. You have to drop the subframe about 3 inches and those bolts have such a death grip on the frame that my arms were sore for a week after I was done. All of that because of ONE STUPID NUT on the bushing bracket that can't be reached otherwise

Unless you have a lift the procedure is best done using two jacks and two jackstands, incredibly tedious job.

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by uzzo2

Man that's a great deal, my only concern with that would be is if I had a problem with it. I would then have to pay the return shipping on it. Have you dealt with them before and had a good result? I can get one from Advance for $98.00 with the same warranty.

I have not had any dealings with them. There is another forum that I am on of which a fella from Ford Company in Detroit has used without any problems and he does reecommend them to people on that forum.
You could email them the question about the cost to send the faulty rack back to them. I do believe that they will cover the cost but you need to confirm.

Personally I would be more comfortable getting from detroit axle than Autozone, but that is my opinion.

[uzzo2]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

I have not had any dealings with them. There is another forum that I am on of which a fella from Ford Company in Detroit has used without any problems and he does reecommend them to people on that forum.
You could email them the question about the cost to send the faulty rack back to them. I do believe that they will cover the cost but you need to confirm.

Personally I would be more comfortable getting from detroit axle than Autozone, but that is my opinion.

They have to be getting a super deal on the shipping to sell it for that price and include the shipping. Thanks again for the info!

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by tempfixit

Personally I would be more comfortable getting from detroit axle than Autozone, but that is my opinion.

Detroit? You mean directly from Ford or is that another supplier? If it's from Ford I would check first if the part has to come from Canada (all Windstars come from there) and if so, make sure they won't charge duty fees.

[uzzo2]

He's talking about Detroit axle is the name of the company I believe that has the reman rack. I have it ordered along with everything else guys. Anything else I need to know about the process to R&R that rack. Only the 2 rear subframe bolts need to be removed, right? I know someone said you needed 2 jacks. I guess to lower the subframe once you get the vehicle up in the air on jackstands. But could you do it with one if you get it in the center of the subframe?

[12Ounce]

I've replaced the rack on a Winny perhaps two times. I don't remember many difficult details ... so it must not have been too difficult. The mounting design is rather good ... the steering rack on a number of vehicles is mounted to the firewall. In this case, they are mounted in rubber isolators to provide a bit of "give". If these rubber isolators get too worn, the steering becomes very loose.

In the case of the Winny, the rack is hard-mounted to the subframe. Therefore the "give" is provided by the sub-frame mounting isolators ... which seem to last a long while.

Tips:
1. Begin with the front wheels facing straight-ahead. Use a rope or large tie-wraps to anchor the strng wheel to the driver's seat. You don't want the steering wheel loose so it can be turned a full revolution accidentally ... but you do want the wheel anchored loose enough for some back and forth movement.
2. Remember that the two main rack mounting bolts are splined. After the nuts are removed, grab the hammer and drive them upward.
3. Before removing the hyd tubes from the rack ... use paint sticks, or tape, or something to mark them in some way. Otherwise you will be confused when its time to reconnect. "Which tube goes where??"!
4. Expect trouble when you try to align the rack input shaft to the steering column shaft. If you are not very lucky, it can take a while ... and much cussing. Ford recommends a new attaching bolt be used and it should be torqued to spec (which I don't remember the value.) But there is almost no room for a torque wrench anyway! Preposition the rack to the center of its travel before beginning this procedure....otherwise you will be off-centered beyond correction.

[uzzo2]

Okay guys, it's all done, thanks for all the advice. Special thanks to tempfixit for the awesome deal on the rack. They didn't even charge me a core charge, but when the box arrived yesterday. There was a note enclosed to please return the core and a shipping label to return it free of charge. I would definitely deal with them again. It drives like brand new now with the rack, new lower control arms, sway bar bushings and outer tie rod ends.

[uzzo2]

Bad news folks, the wife told me yesterday that the steering was making a bunch of noise. The PS fluid was low. I topped it off and drove it up on the ramps a little while ago. This reman rack I put in it is leaking. Right at the top seal where the steering knuckle attaches, what a PITA!

[scubacat]

If it's leaking from the high pressure hose connection, you can just unscrew it and change the teflon seal.

[uzzo2]

Originally Posted by scubacat

If it's leaking from the high pressure hose connection, you can just unscrew it and change the teflon seal.

I wish I was that lucky, the hose fittings are dry. It's leaking from the very top input shaft and running down the other small steel lines that are connected.

[scubacat]

That sucks. How tough was it to swap out? I haven't actually done a full swap before (although I have a hunch it's coming up thanks to a curb that allegedly jumped out in front of the wife while turning a corner...)