97 S-10 transmission removal

[babuhr]

('97 S-10 4.3L, 4wd, 5spd)
I'm replacing my clutch and am currently trying to remove the tranny. I have the front cross-brace, drive-shaft and exhaust all removed. I also have all the bolts around the bellhousing removed (those were fun).
-What gear should I have it in? The manual states either neutral, 3rd, or 4th depending on which tranny.
-How do I identify which tranny I have?
-When I pull the tranny back, is the standard procedure to pull it back over the rear cross brace, and then drop the front of the assembly down? How far will it have to come back before it clears the input shaft?
Any input is appreciated. I'll be working on it today, so we'll see how it goes. Thanks

[dmbrisket 51]

i beleve it is a c5 tranny, (whatever the small blocks have for transmissions is the one your 4.3 has) and you need to get all bellhousing bolts removed, then pull back off the guide pins, then let it down

[OverBoardProject]

It'll have to slide back at least 4" but give it a little extra room (6" or so)

I've removed transmissions in just about any gear before and never had a problem. Where the gear selection is really important is while installing it. And in this case it's important that you can rotate the tail shaft splines to line them up with the splines on the clutch.
Is it easy to remove the shift leaver from your truck? or s it out already?
If it's imposible to take it out it might only fit through the hole in 1 gear.

This job is easiest on a paved driveway with a floor jack. The hardest part is lining everything up while installing it. I always replace the seals on both sides if possible to prevent any leaks from destroying the new clutch early.

[dmbrisket 51]

Originally Posted by OverBoardProject

This job is easiest on a paved driveway with a floor jack. The hardest part is lining everything up while installing it. I always replace the seals on both sides if possible to prevent any leaks from destroying the new clutch early.

no, this job is easyist at my shop... on the hoist

[OverBoardProject]

LOL, and very true Doug.

I was refering from a poor man's point of view.

I also find it really easy from above if your doing a cab off restoration. Then there's nothing in the way, but it's a lot of extra work if the person isn't planning on a cab off project

[dmbrisket 51]

with the cab off its not work

[babuhr]

The rest of the removal went OK. The biggest problem was that the rear cross brace didn't allow me to slide the tranny back very far. If that wasn't welded on, it would've been an entirely different deal. Also, I broke one of the rusty posts near the manifold and TWO near the cat. conv.when removing the exhaust. I guess I got a little carried away. Anyway, I took the flywheel in and it should be resurfaced tomorrow. I replaced the bearings and I'll be attempting the clutch/tranny install over the weekend. My kit came with and alignment tool, so I hope that helps a little. Also, I'll be recruiting an extra set of hands. Wish me luck...

[OverBoardProject]

It's hard to remove those rusty bolts. I wish that they used Stainless steel there.

The alignment tool comes with all new clutch sets that they sell now (that I know of)
And your doing the right thing getting the flywheel re-surfaced. So many people skip this step and wonder why it isn't flawless.

Good luck with it

[babuhr]

Well, I got the tranny slid back on. It was very difficult to get it aligned, but it's together. Now, I have to figure out my situation with the broken off studs on the exhaust. I think I'm going to cut them down, drill through them, and replace with new hardware. I still won't have everything reassembled for a few more nights (since I'm just working a little on it each night after work) but hopefully ir works properly when I try it out...