Swaybar Questions

[QUICK_EG_B16A]

Ok, I bought a blox 21mm rear swaybar kit(it was on sale for 120 brand new) and have lower control arms from a del sol vtec on the way(Damn cx with no swaybars) I've heard not to go bigger than 18mm or it can rip the subframe apart. But yet the DC2 integra type Rs have bars of like 22 and 23. with the DCs and EGs sharing many components how can one be fine with a bigger bar and the other have the subframe rip off??

[CivicSiRacer]

Because those chassis were reinforced at certain sections - whereas the Civic is just an econo car.

[QUICK_EG_B16A]

Oh I see... Well I am getting the EM Racing bars: C pillar, Rear strut Trunk bar and both diagonals for the rear end and already have a SPW lower tie bar. Would that combination help resist the subframe problems? also I don't do any serious auto X but I do love to take an occasional corner and want to go to a track day here and there. Besides those, what other points can I brace to stop the subframe from breaking?

[BullShifter]

The frame tears where the sway bar mounts, this is all you need - http://beaksproducts.com/SRK_EG_DC_S...nforcement.htm

this is what happens - http://beaksproducts.com/tearout.htm

[SilverY2KCivic]

Originally Posted by BullShifter

The frame tears where the sway bar mounts, this is all you need - http://beaksproducts.com/SRK_EG_DC_S...nforcement.htm

this is what happens - http://beaksproducts.com/tearout.htm

Beak's kit isn't good enough. For that bar (or ITR or similar bars) you'll need the A-spec Racing swaybar reinforcement kit. The DC2 ITR holds up because it's rear subframe is made from durable "1/8th thick steel, opposed to the paper thin 20 gauge metal of the EK/EG subframe. The ITR one was designed to accomidate a 22mm (or even the Mugen 27mm) rear swaybar without ANY complications. Beak's explained this to me in a very detailed and lengthy email when the subframe on my '00 coupe tore out on me from the 22mm ITR bar I used to have. Now I run a 15mm Del Sol VTEC bar and the differance isn't really all too noticeable.

[snowman2005]

btw. the ek chassi rip easier then the eg ones

[SilverY2KCivic]

Originally Posted by snowman2005

btw. the ek chassi rip easier then the eg ones

Both will rip with a large bar, the EG chassis is only marginally thicker/stiffer than the EK chassis but not by much.

[snowman2005]

ya i know theyll both rip with a huge sway bar i was just saying the ek chassis are weaker

[BullShifter]

Not running a front sway will cause even more stress.

[snowman2005]

depends on ur front rear springs rates. but usualy, yes ill agree with you

[SilverY2KCivic]

Originally Posted by snowman2005

ya i know theyll both rip with a huge sway bar i was just saying the ek chassis are weaker

And I'm saying not by enough to really notice... Both are very thin. The EG chassis has no real advantage over the EK because the thickness of the EG over the EK is so slight.

[QUICK_EG_B16A]

Thanks for all the help so far. I do have a question that may sound a little retarded but is it possible to use both the "a spec subframe brace" and the "beaks kit" combined if all the bolts were long enough. I really only know the bare basics when it comes to suspension so I need help more often than in other areas. I just want to be able to use that swaybar and bought a beaks kit (should come tommorrow) before I heard about the A spec reinforcement kit.

[CivicSiRacer]

The A=Spec brace is more than enough. I would actually recommend the Comptech sway bar/tie bar since I've been running it for about 2 years with no problems.

[SilverY2KCivic]

Originally Posted by CivicSiRacer

The A=Spec brace is more than enough. I would actually recommend the Comptech sway bar/tie bar since I've been running it for about 2 years with no problems.

Agreed. You can't use both together since the A-Spec kit comes with it's own Beak's similar mounting kit. When you see pics of it you'll know what I mean.