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#1 | |
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AF Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: syracuse, New York
Posts: 14
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M/T wheels...help please!
im getting some M/T classic lock wheels 15x10 but on the website i am ordering from it has other info and options for that size and model that i am clueless on what it means here are the options...
the 15x10 with: 1. 5-5.5 bolt pattern 2. 6-6.5 bolt pattern 3. 5-4.5 bolt pattern and then after choosing that you have a choice between two additional options: 1. 4 1/8" backspacing 2. 3 5/8" backspacing are these options purely by preference or what is needed for the car to fit correctly? info on my car: 97 cherokee sport with 6" skyjacker lift and 33x12.5 super swampers, also the rims i have on now take 5 bolts to secure the wheel...if that helps any. so if anybody knows what options for the rims i should or need to get to fit my car OR can explain to me what the bolt pattern and backspacing mean...that would be greatly appreciated |
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#2 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ANC, Alaska
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
The rims you need would be the "5-4.5 bolt pattern". What that means is:
5= number of lug nuts 4.5= 4 1/2" bolt circle. The bolt circle or lug pattern is the distance between two lugnuts, across the hub. Meaure the distance from head to head on any 2 lugnuts on the wheel that are the furthest away from each other (not right next to) and that is your lug pattern/bolt circle. Early jeeps like CJs, and most dana 44 axles use the 5-5.5 pattern. The 6-6.5 is something you'd typically see on a half ton chevy truck, just as an example. And on most 1 ton trucks, you'd see an 8-6.5. That is "8 lugs" with 6.5" between the oppisite lug nuts. Backspacing: This is, in the simplest terms, the measurment defining how far towards the outer or inner lip of the rim the mounting surface is. With a higher numerical backspacing, the further towards the outer edge of the rim the mounting surface or "face" will be, causing the tire/rim to sit further back under the fender well. With a numerically lower measurment, the further towards the inside of the rim the mounting surface will be, thus pushing the whole tire/rim combo further OUT of the fender well. With the options you listed, the 4 1/8" rim will cause your tires/rims to sit inside the fender a little more, and be mostly or completely covered by the flare, and the 3 5/8" rim will stick out just a little, and give a bit wider stance.
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97XJ 4.0, Full chromo hp D60, FF 14bolt, Fox 14" Coilovers, Longarms, On Board Air, Winch, Armor, etc... 40's and beadlocks on the way....a.k.a. the "one ton crack habit". |
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#3 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: syracuse, New York
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
you have been such a big help, i guess it also really helps that we have the same ride.
you got any pictures of your jeep? also is there any way on this site i can ask you, directly, any questions i have...as i said before, if you dont mind. |
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#4 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ANC, Alaska
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
Yeah, I have a few pics that I can link you to. As far as giving out advice, I just try to pass on what I have learned, and in return, learn a lot from others. There's plenty I dont know when it comes to the intracacies of 4x4's, and in myself passing along info to other folks, I hope that those more knowledgable than I will share their wisdom and experience.
One thing is for sure though, dont only take my word for all that information. Im just one person, and there are others out there who might tell you different. Just search and search and search. Check out www.naxja.com/forum as well. Another XJ site. There are so many jeep guru's out there that you can learn TONS from. Any info you get from someone, no matter how accurate, you should always weigh it against, and compare it to the info from other sources as well. You can occasionally find good knowledgeable folks who mean well and have good intentions, that get their info mixed up, and tell ya something that is inaccurate. Iv'e done it, and so has everyone else. Read, and compare, and contrast. If theres anything else your curious about, I'll try to help. Just PM me. Or you can drop me an Email at [email protected]. Click on mine or anyone else's screen name on the left side of the page, and it'll take you to their profile, where you can message them. Later, Nolan. Oh and heres a few poser shots for ya, lol... http://images.snapfish.com/3436956%3...42%3A659ot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/3436%3A36...9%3C5576nu0mrj http://images.snapfish.com/3436%3A36...8%3B%3A9ot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/3436%3A39...%3C5%3B6ot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/3436956%3...8%3B%3A6ot1lsi http://images.snapfish.com/3436956%3...C5429694ot1lsi
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97XJ 4.0, Full chromo hp D60, FF 14bolt, Fox 14" Coilovers, Longarms, On Board Air, Winch, Armor, etc... 40's and beadlocks on the way....a.k.a. the "one ton crack habit". |
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#5 | |
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AF Newbie
Thread starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: syracuse, New York
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
any suggestion as far as backspacing goes?
so when i do lift my jeep im getting a 6" lift with 33 x 12.5 tires...would you suggest an even wider stance with the 3 5/8" backspacing? i was just going to go with the 4 1/8" backspacing because i can always add spacers. but if i should have the extra space i figured i could potentially save some money and ask you considering the difference in backspacing on the rim is no difference in price. |
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#6 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ANC, Alaska
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
6" of lift will clear 33x12.50's, but there will be *some rubbing* without the fender wells being trimmed back a little bit. Consider this:
If you go with the deeper 4 1/8" backspacing, it puts the tires further in the wheel wells, thus helping to prevent them from hitting, and tearing into or off your fender flares. With the wider 3 5/8" backspacing, when you turn, the tire swings back and forth in that much wider of an arc (since youve increased the distance that the rim/tire is from the steering knuckle) and seeing as how it now sits further out of the fender well, it wont tuck back into it as well, and will very likely hit the flare at full steering lock. Take the time to have your rim and tire shop mount up the tire of your choice on both rims, bolt them up to the jeep, and check your clearance while steering back and forth. Try to picture where the suspension will compress to, and where things will hit. There is some mutal pros and cons: The less-backspaced rim will, yes, offer more stabilty. But it will hit your fender sooner, and will put more stress on your balljoints, seeing as how the further out that heavy rim and tire are, the more leverage you put on them. There is also the issue of legality. Most states require that the tire be completely covered by the fender or fender flare. They arent allowed to protrude outside of the coverage offered by the flares on your jeep. For extended length flares, check out Bushwhacker cutout flares. They require you to cut some sheetmetal, but offer the advantage of more tire coverage, and tire clearance. With the deeper backspaced 4 1/8" rim, the main concern you will have is whether or not the tires will hit your control arms at full steering lock. Im sure you dont want your brand new, spendy tires being beat to heck rubbing and grinding on the new control arms that will come with your lift kit. Mostly, its a debate of personal preference. Both have compromises. Just go with the ones that you find to be the most minimal hassle for you.
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97XJ 4.0, Full chromo hp D60, FF 14bolt, Fox 14" Coilovers, Longarms, On Board Air, Winch, Armor, etc... 40's and beadlocks on the way....a.k.a. the "one ton crack habit". |
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#7 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 650
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
Hey Arctic,nice lookin XJ you got there,but I was wondering one thing.Your tires seem to be installed so they are rotating opposite of what they would be typically.Now I'm not trying to be a smartass but I was wondering the reasoning because I personally have never seen that done before,and maybe there is something I could learn from this.I see in your sig it says "bias claws",is that what they are because I thought they looked like M.T. Baja Claws or something very similar.
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#8 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ANC, Alaska
Posts: 65
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
Some say the theory is true, and some call B.S., but heres what my PERSONAL opinion is about running the claws backward...
From what I can tell, it makes sense to me to invert the contact patch of the chevrons on the softer terrain like we have here in Alaska. Running them forward they seem to be digging in with the pointed head of the tread first, and digging downward while kicking rocks, dirt, mud, snow, sand, etc out from under the tire, causing the vehicle to sink downward in the soil. With them run the other way, I feel that it helps to create extra traction and flotation by having the tread act as "scoops", if you will, and they tend to pull the rocks, dirt, sand, snow, etc. into the center of the tread, and allow the vehicle to float up top better in the loose soil. Like I said, some say its B.S., but I'm personally convinced and can feel a difference. There were times when I'd be getting buried the further into a mudhole that I went and would lose forward momentum and progress... but eerily enough, I could back right out almost at Idle. So I flipped 'em. Seems to be helping.
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97XJ 4.0, Full chromo hp D60, FF 14bolt, Fox 14" Coilovers, Longarms, On Board Air, Winch, Armor, etc... 40's and beadlocks on the way....a.k.a. the "one ton crack habit". |
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#9 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 650
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Re: M/T wheels...help please!
Sounds good to me.
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