95 Rodeo Timing Belt

[chaznw]

I am in the process of replacing the timing belt. I am able to get the timing marks lined up with the engine marks and the belt lines, but I have seen several posts where they say to put the #1 pistion at TDC. There are two TDC positions for a pistion. One on the power stroke and one on the intake stroke. How do I tell which one?

I used a rod in the #1 to find TDC but when I look at the notch in the crankshift gear it doesn't match up with the mark on the oil pump. #1 just doesn't seem to want to line up as has been suggested. #2, however, does line when it is at TDC with the notch in the crank. I still have the delima of not knowing if #2 is on the power or intake stroke.

Reason I am asking is my Rodeo won't start and I have had the belt out and in several times. One posting on the web said to use the #2 piston at TDC.

Finally, I have been trying to start it without the alternator or other belts installed. I didn't want to install all that stuff until I new the engine would kick over.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Cat Fuzz]

You can tell true TDC by removing the spark plug and feeling for the air rushing out of the plug hole. This is called the compression stroke.

It should start and run just fine without the accessory belts installed.

BTW, are you replacing the belt because it broke or just as part of routine maintanance? If the old belt didn't break, you could have simply reinstalled the new belt in place of the old one as long as nothing moved while removing the old belt. I've done this many times, saves alot of the hassle of lining things up.

[chaznw]

Thanks for the tip on finding the piston position. It was a forehead flattening revelation.

The Rodeo quit one day after the engine light came on. It didn't quit till I got home and tried to start it the next morning. A few sputters then.....nada.

It was due for a timing belt and I had one go out on my Subaru before with the same syptoms. After much reading in the net I am afraid that I damaged the valves.

After I am sure everything is lined up correctly I guess I will go get a compression gauge .....and do a lot of praying.

Thanks again for the tips. I'll let you know how I made out.

[amigo-2k]

its a non-interfearance engine. no worries.

[chaznw]

No matter what I do, the #1 piston is not at TDC when the timing mark on the crank is lined up. Does someone know for sure if it is the #1 or #2 that should be at TDC when the crank is lined up? I've seen both mentioned on this forum.

[chaznw]

Got it started....Yipeeeeeeeee! I finally realized that it didn't matter where the pistons were as long as the notch on the cam sprocket was lined up with the mark on the oil pump, the pistions would be in the correct position. The position of the cams determine whether a piston is on intake or exhaust so as long as you have the timing marks lined up on the sprocket and engine you are good to go. The lines on the belt help you get the right tension as you work the belt around the sprockets.

I would have finished a long time ago if I hadn't gotten off on a tangent worrying about which stroke the pistons were on etc.

After installing and removing the belt so many times I can practically do it blind folded now. Here are the tips from my experience.

An air impact wrench makes taking the crank pulley bolt out a lot easier.

Don't fret if you have a broken or loose belt that has jumped. Mine did and there isn't any valve damage.

Use pinch clips to hold the belt in place when installing it.

When installing the belt over the Driver side cam sprocket, pull the belt from the side of the fender. You can turn the spocket very slightly clockwise in order to get the belt mark lined up on the sprocket then turn it counter clockwise to line everything up with the engine dimple mark.

On the passenger side, you can also turn the cam sprocket slightly to get the belt lined up on the sprocket then rotatate it back to engine timing mark.

After lining up everything and using pich clips at each sprocket the belt should be pretty tight everywhere except where the tensioner and tesioner rod go.

Install the tensioner first and tighten it. Then install the tesioner rod.
Note the the tensioner rod has a shock absorber effect so compress it very slowly in the vice. If you try to comrpess it too quickly it seems to increase in resistance.

Whe installing the tesioner rod I found it very easy to use a large wooden dowel as a pry bar to pry the tensioner so I could start the screws for the tensioner rod.

Good luck to anyone doing their Rodeo timing belt.