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#1
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HELP!! S/C problems
About a month ago I put on a Vortech S/C on my 2000 civic SI. Darn thing was awsome at higher RPMs. About a week ago I noticed a substantial H.P. loss after 5.4 (vtech) almost as though My vtech quit working. Test driving I was able to blow a p1259 code. Dudes at auto zone said it was a F/A mixture problem. Turns out it was a Vtech malfunction. when I first got the car I hooked up a vtech light that engages when.. vtech engages.. and the thing broke after a week. so i just let the light sit. I thought the problem was that the light was grounding out, so I cut the wire and my vtech does engage (can tell by the sound) but there is still a hp loss and the car feels like the S/C isnt makeing a constant boost level at high RPM. low RPM is the same as it was when the kit was first installed. Beacuse I just bought the S/C I havnt had the funds for Guages, F/A controller...
Please help I have no idea what the problem is and im starting to wonder i I didnt waste 3,500 big ones. |
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#2
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Re: HELP!! S/C problems
i can't help u...but people are anal when it comes to spelling...
it is Vtec...not Vtech...Vtech makes cordless phones
__________________
The name's Adrian 1990 Civic HB Si - 265.7whp/223tq @9.2psi. Tuned on NepTune by J.Mills 1991 Civic Sedan DX - 296.3whp/230tq @1bar. Tuned on NepTune by J.Mills 1991 Civic Sedan DX - 185.8whp/139tq. Tuned on NepTune by J.Mills 2006 G35 Coupe 6MT - Stock 2011 CR-Z - Stock |
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#3
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Re: HELP!! S/C problems
Oh yeah when I brake hard my oil light flashed but i havnt check my oil reading yet
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#4
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Re: HELP!! S/C problems
add more oil if your oil light goes on when braking or accelerating.. manual says for my accord to put in 4.4 quarts.. I usually end up putting in 4.7 quarts just to be safe..
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Black 1999 Honda Accord LX, Bombz Cold Air Intake, DC Sports Ceramic Exhaust header, "Rally racing" Foglights, 400 watt coustic 401SE AMP, 450 watt Bazooka TVB 141 Tri-vent triangle sub. 220 watt Pioneer 6.5" 3-way (in doors). To come: Dynamat, Borla exhaust system, and 17" Koenig Absolute (black w/ chome lip), Coilovers, & camber kit (1-1.5 drop), Extensive Engine mods. check me out on: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/515191 |
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#5
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First off is concerning the oil level. if your oil light comes on, you need to check it imeadiately. I cant stress how important it is to keep your oil level up with boost. If you want your motor to suvive the extra wear and tear, use fully synthetic motor oil and keep the oil level up to the full mark on the dipstick. simple as that. i change mine every 3500 miles with mobil 1 fully synthetic. you will start to notice how quickly your motor oil goes bad with boost. if your oil light is already on, and you are still driving it, you are already causing some damage to your internals.
2nd off, you dont have any problems with A/F mixtures. you will know when you do, because other codes will accompany it. you dont need a stupid vtec light. if you want it, make sure the lines do not have breaks in em. it will throw the code. also, you may have accidently knocked over lines, give them a check. i personally dont believe in sound as a diagnoses for vtec to be working. if all else fails check the vtec seloniod itself, heres the how to procedure for it http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=324804 Also did you do the install yourself? if you spent $3500 on this, you need to be more aware of what is going on with your setup. thats alot of money to be throwing away from not checking why your oil pressure light is going off. also if the change in oil pressure since the last time you checked it is dramatic, check for leaks and check to see if you did the oil drain tube correctly. PS, the main gauges you will need is a boost/vac gauge and egt. get a good engine management system and you will be fine.
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99 [email protected] psi si- I voted for the Terminator for Gov. 95 HB- B16a2- SC34@12psi WTB: USDM B16a2 or B16a3 complete short block. pm is the key. FS: B series InlinePro cast mani, PnH RC 550s, and Hondata S2b. pm me. |
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