Burning oil at idle

[bhw33191]

Originally Posted by j cAT

I used engine restore twice on an engine like yours and it did not in any way reduce oil consumption....

the use of 10-40wt is not the correct oil for our engines,,GM advised that this oil must not be used....10-30wt oil is the correct oil...if you wish to try a heavier oil use 30wt in the hot weather then 10-30wt when cooler temps return...synthetic will reduce your oil problems and crankcase contaimination,,but it will cost twice as much for the product..and the reduction will be slight...


as you know , my opinon is , your engine needs lots of work..
no additive will correct this.

Ugh this really sucks. If i end up spending loads of money to get this thing in perfect working order its not even worth it in the end, all of this work and the motor won't even repay me by being just "a little" fast. I hate being stuck with the worst engine ever put in this car. Maybe i'll swap it out with a 454 lol. But probably not, if anything it might have to be a 350 just because i know it works with my ECU or whatever and my transmission, and most important better gas mileage than the 454 i'd assume.

I'm still in school and with my income and the fact that its a carbed 305, its just not worth the money period. I'm still paying off that $1,350 transmission bill too. So at this rate i just gutta deal with it for a while and save for an engine that has potential...

And one more thing, whats going to happen with my engine because of the 10W-40?? You know i stood at autozone for 15 minutes debating on which oil to get..i always make the wrong decision in the end damnit. Because now when the engine idles (i'm not sure exactly how to describe it) but i can hear sort of a ticking noise, it sounds like you can actually hear the crankshaft dipping into the oil or something like that..ugh this is just bad...

[j cAT]

if you really want to keep this vehicle ,,,you should not drive it during the winter...I would get another vehicle for winter use...do a plate swap/insurance swap...get a vehicle that is cheap to operate..then see if you can over the winter spring get some engine work done on the caprice..

[bhw33191]

Originally Posted by j cAT

if you really want to keep this vehicle ,,,you should not drive it during the winter...I would get another vehicle for winter use...do a plate swap/insurance swap...get a vehicle that is cheap to operate..then see if you can over the winter spring get some engine work done on the caprice..

You know thats exactly what i was thinking. I kind of think i really want to restore this car and the only way to do it is to get another car in the meantime..too bad my parents sold the old ford expedition not too long ago, coulda had yet another free car lol..my father even asked me if i wanted it, but he was thinking it was either the caprice or the expedition, as you can see i took the caprice but anyway i'll figure it out.

[datownsend]

I have a 94 dodge shadow 2.5 litre that I just replaced the head with a brand new one back in April. Just recently and all of a sudden it started to run like a mac truck and upon investigating I have found oil in my air breather. What could cause this. This is a high mileage car.

[silicon212]

Originally Posted by datownsend

I have a 94 dodge shadow 2.5 litre that I just replaced the head with a brand new one back in April. Just recently and all of a sudden it started to run like a mac truck and upon investigating I have found oil in my air breather. What could cause this. This is a high mileage car.

This is the Chevrolet Caprice forum.

[manicmechanix]

As was mentioned, the most likely culprit for high oil consumption/burning oil on a smallblock chevy is the valve guide seals or worn valve guides themself. It's possible to change the valve seals without taking off the heads but I think you would need compressed air and an adapter to screw into the spark plugs to hold the valves shut. You could have poor ring seal but that is somewhat less likely. A compression test would indicate if you have bad ring seal.

How much oil are you burning? A quart every 500 miles or what? Also the valve covers are prone to leak on the chevy, but I think you said you are burning oil out the exhaust. Although a good valve cover seal will help the PCV system work better. Like someone else mentioned, you should only use a quality 10W-30 conventional oil only. Some years ago, around the time your engine was manufactured, GM said that 10-40 could cause ring sticking. A lot of people use to use 10-40 back then.It's probably a long shot but you might try going to a dealer and getting the exact PCV valve for this application. I would also want to check your engine vacuum. None of that will probably solve the problem but it might help. You probably have worn valve seals and valve guides and maybe bad ring seal.