McLaren SLR 722 GT Luxury Street Convertible

[andybmw7272]

My next project is going to be a McLaren SLR 722 GT Performance Luxury Edition. This is a SLR 722 GT which is a racecar but has been converted to a fully functional luxury convertible street legal edition. When sitting in this car, you can tell it is made with the best of the best, double stitch high end leather and suede, etc and you cannot tell it once was a race car. This means it will have A/C and all. The exterior will have all the 722 GT Race body cues, but will be painted in a light metallic blue and a darker navy blue with a full cream/white leather interior. It will not have a lot of carbon fiber in terms of a decorative purpose. There will be the carbon pieces for lightening and performance as this car started out as a 722 GT. It is essentially the 722 GT for the street and in full luxury and comfort. The rear diffuser and giant wing are being traded for something more socially acceptable and it will retain the style of the 722 wheels but in an offset street version, no slicks for tires. Think of this as if the SLR 722 GT and Maybach had a baby.

I am starting with a ton of parts that I have had in the closet for three years and need to be used.
- Tamiya McLaren SLR
- KA Models SLR grade up kit
- Hobby Design SLR 722 GT Trans Kit (I bought this before they came out with the Tamiya 722 kit)
- Hobby Design SLR Roadster Convertible Trans Kit
- Studio 27 SLR grade up kit

All of the parts will allow for a very detailed kit. I am also going to add my usuals with RB Motion shocks (although I think one of the kits above has some shocks in it already maybe) and then the assembly of photo etched parts, etc.

This is going to be a fun journey and I welcome you all to join along!!!!
And we’re off!

Andy

[rallymaster]

Seems like an ambitious and promissing build but...

[andybmw7272]

One of the first things I noticed is the Hobby Design hood is warped severely. I am not even going to try to fix this. This forces the Tamiya hood to be converted to a 722 GT hood. I dont think it will be too hard, but may require the grafting of the fins on the side of the 722 hood to the new hood. I dont want to have to try to replicate those and have them be the same size and shape on each side. We will see how that works out.




I moved on cutting off the rear SLR bumper and replacing it with the Hobby Design 722 bumper. The 722 bumper is wider as it carries the fender flares as well as the body. This too does not fit and would be under stress to have the sides be in contact with the body. In fear of it cracking over time and coming off the car as the resin tries to get back to its original default shape, I then decided to glue the SLR bumper back on and add the flares from the resin piece just as I am doing with the hood. So I needlessly cut off the bumper and glued it back on.

I am 0 for 2 which now makes me question all the Hobby Design resin body pieces. They require a TON of clean up so I am going to convert the Tamiya pieces instead. This is pretty disappointing for a resin kit that I think I paid $100+ for a few years ago.

This should be a pretty easy conversion.



Doors are from the Hobby Design SLR Roadster conversion kit, but I am going to use the Tamiya doors and modify them. They are sharper with the lines and I dont trust them to fit properly when done. Maybe they too are warped.



Bumper should be easy to convert, although again disappointing to have to make something that I purchased.



This is not the way I wanted to start, but I know it will be the best for the final project.

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO USE TO GET THE RESIN TO HOLD TO THE FACTORY BODY? I have some fender flares to attach.

Thank you in advance for the help!!!!
Stay tuned!!!
Andy

[andybmw7272]

Thanks Rally, sorry, your response beat me to getting the pics posted.

Originally Posted by rallymaster

Seems like an ambitious and promissing build but...

[stevetriumph]

Hi Andy,
the only time I have had to deal with warped resin was on a 1/32 scale Pitts stunt plane, a few years ago.
I had to put the wings in really hot water and twist them back into shape (wearing thick rubber gloves)
This did work and the aircraft is still straight. I was worried about it reverting to default but apparently this does not happen - the bottom wings are still attached to the top ones after 5+ years!
The resin in my kit was grey though and may be different stuff.
From what I can gather, this hot water method is pretty much the only method for fixing warped resin.
Hope it goes well for you, I will be watching your thread.
Regards,
Steve.

[star21]

Unfortunately, I feel your pain when it comes to spending $$ on the Hobby Design SLR 722GT kit and being SEVERELY disappointed. I did the same thing you had done for the rear bumper. I cut the plastic Tamiya one off, then realized I was better off when comparing the resin one on. I gave up on it awhile back and ended up selling it.

I'd love to build a 722GT, but next time it won't be using the Hobby Design transkit. I think I'd be better off modifying it myself.

GOOD LUCK! It sounds like a very unique project.

[Helico]

Ouch. That is a horrible trans kit. I would try hot water method as stevetriumph suggested.

[andybmw7272]

I do not trust myself to get the resin bent properly. It has to fit perfectly and I don't think my odds of getting this right are that high. Thanks for the thoughts on the hood, but I am going to have to make the stock one work.

I am making up the car based on the 722 GT and converting to a street legal convertible with full interior, not race.
I dreamed this up before the 722 street version came out, but unlike the 722 street version that is in production, this will have the 722GT race elements such as wider body, flares, more aggressive hood scoops, etc.

Imagine this car, but in full luxury and with no top and no big ass wing.



Yea, so much for keep it simple like on the Cobra.

Thanks again for the insight on the resin guys!
Andy

[da_ashman]

Nice project!! Love the idea, & cant wait to see what you do.
Have you built a McMerc before? From my experience the Tamiya kit has a few fit issues with the stock kit, mostly on getting the doors to close properly & the leading edge of the hood sitting flat over the front lights. I'm sure someone can shed light on how to fix this, but i was none the wiser...

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Considering the only real issues with the Tamiya kit OOB are with body panel fits, you are really taking on an ambitious project! It's a shame that Hobby Design resin isn't better...a lot better, considering the cost.

I've had excellent results w/reshaping resin in hot water, sub-boiling. It becomes very pliable and easy to reshape, but it doesn't turn into a blob. The hardest thing is that it if you need to "re-dip" the part, it will warp all over again so you have to do the repair in sections, or over again.

If you'll be at the ACME February meeting, I can bring my SLR builtups and you can see for yourself where the fit issues are, up close and personal. Final door fit without the frame will probably be good, that is one issue they have...once the glass and door panel is installed, the upper frame sticks out just a bit from the body. Before glass...it fits fine. Since yours is a convertible, you can probably get by with only some minor shaving/sanding of the inner door panel where it meets the door surround on the interior tub.

Hood fit is compromised by the intake part, the attachment boss is too long and needs trimming to get the nose emblem as low as possible.

Even knowing about the fit issues, my second SLR (the 722) gave me more problems than the first...

[CrateCruncher]

Neat project. Not having seen the resin in your transkit I don't know if its salvageable or not. However, you have nothing to lose in trying to correct the shape. Also, it's most likely the part was the correct shape when packed but it warped due to improper packing. Once you learn the skill it will open up a lot more building opportunities so it's a skill worth developing.

If it were mine I'd acquire a thermometer with a range up to 100C (212F). Since every plastic and resin is different you'll have to experiment with a piece of scrap gradually increasing the water temp until the resin becomes pliable but not overly flexible. Start at 50C(120F) and increase by about 5 to 10 in the microwave until you hit optimum. For the hood, immerse in the optimized water bath and quickly transfer it to the body forming the contours so it fits correctly. It may take a few cycles before your satisfied but you'll get there. Resin and plastic forming can save a lot of horrors making it a valuable skill. Good luck.

[andybmw7272]

Thanks guys!!!!

Bob, yes, please bring your SLR's. They would be great to see in person. That would be a big help!!!!!!

Andy

[MidMazar]

Its sad to see you barely using the t-kit. Do you happen to know if the t-kit was fine when you first bought it and it warped over time? If i was you i would e-mail hobby design with a couple pictures of your issues. Who knows, maybe they'll replace it? Good luck on this one and keep us posted.

[star21]

Originally Posted by MidMazar

Its sad to see you barely using the t-kit. Do you happen to know if the t-kit was fine when you first bought it and it warped over time? If i was you i would e-mail hobby design with a couple pictures of your issues. Who knows, maybe they'll replace it? Good luck on this one and keep us posted.

Sadly mine had similar flaws as well. One might also factor in that this transkit was made when Hobby Design was still in it's somewhat infancy and shorter product list. Now they've exploded with a variety of products. I think someone also commented in a totally unrelated AF archival post (I think a 599XX wheels post), that Hobby Design was doing all the design work by hand and only recently switched to a 3D printer?

Still it's not excuse for the $$ tag VS. quality.