1983 Mustang V6 232 stalling HELP!

[rustysurfsa]

dfssfsdf

[angus10]

Start with checking the fuel pressure. And what about cap and rotor? PCV ? Is it throwing any codes?

[rustysurfsa]

sdfsdf

[angus10]

Sorry ! I saw 93 and jumped the gun.

[rustysurfsa]

no problem.

[351wStang]

Did the exhaust pipes get cherry red? Sounds a whole lot like it jumped time to me. If thats the problem you will need a new timing chain & gear set, as well as gaskets for water pump and timing cover. Possibly the oil pan too but its been so long since I've messed with a straight six thats I cant remember for sure.

[rustysurfsa]

dfsdfsdfsf

[83mustang]

Did you ever get an answer on this. I have a similar problem with my 83 V6. Just replaced head gaskets. It runs but won't idle. Gets gas, sound & feels stronger. But just can not get her to idle or stay alive on her own. What did you find out?

[83mustang]

83 Mustang with 232 V6, 3.8 L. won't idle, starts up with a little help but will not idle. Had blown head gaskets- no water in oil, leaked into cylinders on both side. Any suggestions?

[rhandwor]

To check if you jumped time turn the engine over by hand to 60 degrees past top dead center turn back to 0 degrees. Pull the distributor cap and have somebody watch the rotor while you turn the engine clockwise. Stop as soon as the tip of the rotor start to move. Look at the timing mark if the crank moved appx. 30 degrees you have way to much slop. Its time to change the timing chain. THis is very liberal and you might to change over 15 degrees.
If this is good clean the carburator. They get gummed up inside.
You can check for a vacuum leak by spraying carb. cleaner along the edges of the intake. If you find a leak it will smooth out immediately.

[MRDANGERUS]

I had a similar problem on my 86 V6 232 at 32,000 miles! I drove it anyway (like your friend) and I blew the gasket. Believe me, It is a FPITA to do the gaskets yourself. Have to strip all accessories
Change the catalytic converter! You can buy inexpensive replacement from CATCO, I paid 35 bucks. Mine have rusted "solid" Do not drive it until you do this.
Now , at 56,000 miles, it startred acting again!



I agree, is good to check your timing belt slack!!!


Tech info on timing chains:
http://www.cloyes.com/Aftermarket/Te...S/Default.aspx

PROCEDUREIt How do you easily make sure timing gears and timing chains are good, and do not need to be replaced?
It's easily done. You don't have to take the front of the engine apart to check, but it's a two man job. So, let's begin.
Remove the Distributor cap.
Put a ratchet and socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Have the 2nd person standing over the distributor looking at the rotor.
Start to rotate the engine CW with the ratchet to the timing marks on the pulley.
Stop rotation at the 10* BTDC mark.
Again, start to rotate the engine CW.
Have the 2nd person tell you EXACTLY when the rotor starts to move.
Stop the rotation of the crankshaft.
Look at the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley.
How many degrees did the crankshaft pulley move?
If the crankshaft moved more than 5.5 degrees, replace the timing gears and the timing chain. IMHO, I replace the set at 4.5 degrees of movement as a preventative measure.
The number of degrees that the crankshaft pulley moves BEFORE the camshaft transfers the movement to the distributor represents the amount of slack in the timing gears or the timing chain. This slack is seen as a time lag by the distributor and the distributor acts accordingly and the spark to the plug is now delivered at the wrong time. It's best to have the whole mechanics of the timing train nice and tight

[MRDANGERUS]

FYI: CATCO catalytic converters 800-274-2515 or 219-947-1664

[WarHound]

I'm having the same problems with an 83 5.0 H.O. Except when I first got to the car (its a friend's) the car was backfiring through the carb and hesitating real bad under load. First things I checked was the dist. and plugs. replaced rotor cap and dist. due to large deposits on rotor and dist points. Also the dist. cover wasn't properly seated and fastened so it wiggled when engine was moving. Now car runs smoother, timing is F*CKED and I can't get it to idle right. Had it running smooth after 5hrs of playing with it rotor button, took it out for a spin to test and on the way back engine started dying unless you kept your foot tapping the accelerator.

[rhandwor]

What are you asking how to set the timing or how to install a new timing chain? Why are you playing with the rotor button normally when you install a new one it only goes one way.
Describe exactly what you want to know.