Passlock System

[gen6eric]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

If the technician had a good scanner, he can get inside the BCM and erase any stored codes including PK2 failures. Sometimes just unhooking the battery is enough to do it too.

Well ... disconnecting the battery is an easy enough thing to try ... sure beats being stranded. I'll have to put a sticky note in her owner's manual for future reference (as well as the three ring binder I keep with others' solutions to the various problems with this vehicle.)

And ... if clearing the passlock related code with a scanner is enough to allow the car to continue running ... no wonder so many people report towing their vehicles to the shop, only to have the technicians report back that it started and ran just fine for them. Of course, I do realize that if the issue is in intermittent wiring related problem, just jostling the car around by towing it might temporarily resolve the problem.

Edit: What is the difference in Passkey systems and Passlock systems? From what I have been able to piece together, Passkey has a resistor "pellet" in the key. However, my daughter's 2001 Alero does not have the pellet in the key and the manual refers to "passlock theft deterrent system" instead of "passkey." Are the solutions for the "security" problems for both systems the same?

[CANTER6]

thanks poncho,..
if this hombre was hacked up with just cutting the yellow wire..
why wouldnt i be able to reconnect said wire, and follow relearn procedures?
Or reset the computer and follow relearn procedures?
thanks

[gen6eric]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

serski, it can also be corroded prongs going into the BCM as well.

What is the best method to clean corroded BCM prongs and/or the board itself?

I am also curious to know if it is normal for the BCM to have tape on it that must be broken to open the BCM box.

My daughter's 2001 Alero BCM that was recently replaced was very corroded. I still have it, but haven't tried to trace which corroded prongs relate to which functions. I did notice that only a few prongs appeared to be corroded when looking on the outside of the box, but when opening the box there were many more that were corroded as well.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by CANTER6

thanks poncho,..
if this hombre was hacked up with just cutting the yellow wire..
why wouldnt i be able to reconnect said wire, and follow relearn procedures?
Or reset the computer and follow relearn procedures?
thanks

You can do that as long as the PK2 system is still working.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by gen6eric

What is the best method to clean corroded BCM prongs and/or the board itself?

I am also curious to know if it is normal for the BCM to have tape on it that must be broken to open the BCM box.

My daughter's 2001 Alero BCM that was recently replaced was very corroded. I still have it, but haven't tried to trace which corroded prongs relate to which functions. I did notice that only a few prongs appeared to be corroded when looking on the outside of the box, but when opening the box there were many more that were corroded as well.

Well I don't really know. I don't normally mess with corroded stuff too much. Try to google that and see what comes up. There are electrical spray that you can use to clean electrical stuff but if it's too bad it won't matter much.

[ztroop]

Just performed the resistor fix on my 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo. 9.09k ohms was the initial ohm meter reading. Used two 4.7k ohm 1/2 watt resistors from Radio Shack (.99 cents pkg of 5). Before soldering I verified the values to be 4.61k ohms (9.22k ohms in series after soldering). Thank you ponchonutty for the excellent posts.

[CANTER6]

thanks poncho

[ponchonutty]

no problem guys. ztroop, your reading may be a little out of reach for the system to allow to pass in extreme weather. So if it gets very hot or very cold, it may mess up again. Then again, it may be just fine. If it messes up again, just adjust your ohm amount

[ztroop]

Ponchonutty,the car ran fine until we got a warm front & the car messed up again.Re-checked the resistance value across the yellow & black wires on the switch, but this time read 8.77k ohms(???).Re-connected the cut yellow wire.Car started fine.Re-installed a 5.6k & 3.3k in series (8.72k on meter).Car started. No problems as of yet.Let me know if I need to be aware of any potentialproblems.Thanks again.

[ponchonutty]

Nope. You should be good to go.

[UnhappyImpalaOwner]

Hello, I own a 2001 Impala (Passlock2). I have both the trouble starting (wait 10 minutes) and intermittently the security light comes on when driving. Could it still be the cylinder or more perhaps the BCM? I would hate to cut the yellow wire and have it be the BCM all along.

Thanks.

[slls]

Cutting the yellow wire is cheap, replacing the BCM is not .

[UnhappyImpalaOwner]

Read elsewhere on the net about adding a resistor (or cutting the yellow wire) at the connector to the BCM for a GrandAm instead of at the cylinder. Any info on whether the passlock yellow wire will be easy to find going into the Impala BCM? Didn't know if the BCM connectors would be in the same location for an Impala and a GrandAm.

Here is the link for the GrandAm:
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm

[ponchonutty]

No. The BCM's are totally different and the pinouts are also different. I am sure somewhere you could get the info and do it at the BCM if you wanted to but taking out the knee knocker and looking up behind the ignition switch really isn't all that hard. There's normally enough wire to pull it out into the open to do your work on. Now seriously, it could easily be either the BCM or PK2 system but like stated, messing with the PK2 is much cheaper and easier. That's usually the plan of attack I use.

[UnhappyImpalaOwner]

Last night I looked up under the dash I saw the Impala BCM, but its not easy to get to. I removed a panel held on by clips and then there was another panel held on by screws. Is this the knee knocker? This sounds like a different (better) way then removing the radio (here is a site that describes how to get the radio out -seems like alot of work -
http://impalahq.naioa.com/HowTo/Dash.html )

Also any opinion of not using the exact resistance and the system learning that new resistance? The GrandAm site used a 2.2K resistor and had the system relearn.

Thanks for the help and the time it takes to describe these details.