Diagnosing ABS Light

[debian4life]

I have a 1998 Ford Windstar and the ABS light has come on. Is there a way that I can find the error codes for the ABS light? Autozone said that they cannot read those error codes with a engine code reader. I am trying to save some money as my local Ford Dealer wants $99.00 just to get the codes for that.

Thanks,

Brian

[wiswind]

1. Check your brake fluid level in the master cylinder. If it is even very slightly low, the Brake and ABS lights will come on. The level sensor is very sensitive.
It is normal for the fluid level to drop slightly as the brake pads wear.
If there is dampness (brake fluid) on the switch (with wires going to it) on the bottom of the master cylinder, you should change the brake pressure switch....not very expensive at the dealer......comes with a wire harness to adapt the new switch to the old wire harness....very easy to replace. Sign that this switch has failed is no cruise control.

2. The wheel speed sensors at each wheel can cause failures.....LOTS of codes. I would look at the brakes at each wheel, if it has not been done for a while. You want to look at remaining lining life, look for any signs of fluid leakage, and this will give you the opportunity to look at the wheel sensors.
If the brake pads / shoes need replacement......

3. Wheel sensor inspection. The wheel sensor is made up of a metal "gear" and a small magnetic pickup unit that has a couple of wires going to it.
Each time one of the "teeth" of the gear passes the magnetic pickup, it creates a pulse in the pickup....which goes to the PCM (computer). By keeping track of the pulses from each one of the 4 wheel sensors, the PCM can determine if one of the wheels is locked up.

A. Look to make sure that the wires to the magnetic pick up unit are intact....and also look at the wire that goes to the plug that the magnetic unit plugs into......on the front wheels, this wire can hang down.....and become damaged.

B. Many disk brake linings are "semi metalic". Brake dust can build up inside the teeth of the gear part of the wheel sensor (if metal is present....could cause problems with the wheel sensor). This can be cleaned by spraying the wheel sensors down with a liberal amount of brake parts cleaner.
Brake cleaner will leave no residue.

C. If one of the pick-up units seems to be bent further from the gear than the other ones, you can GENTLY bend it back into place.
This is a common issue on the rear wheel sensors.

I have not had to repair wheel sensors on my '96 (which is very similar to your '98....major changes in '99 and newer), but I have done the brakes....and posted pictures, which may be of help to you.
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

[dexter3011]

Had the same problem with 98 windstar. The solution was to remove the rust build up on the sensors. Cured the problem and costs about 1.5 hours of your time! They are secured by a single bolt (if memory server right) and may need a slight prying to get them out due to rust build up. Use wire brush to clean the magnetic pickup. When installing be careful to turn the wheel very slowly to ensure that the sensors have enough clearance with the rotating toothed gear. You should be good to go!!

[debian4life]

Thanks Wis and Dexter, I will try these and let you know how they work.

[LeSabre97mint]

Originally Posted by dexter3011

Had the same problem with 98 windstar. The solution was to remove the rust build up on the sensors. Cured the problem and costs about 1.5 hours of your time! They are secured by a single bolt (if memory server right) and may need a slight prying to get them out due to rust build up. Use wire brush to clean the magnetic pickup. When installing be careful to turn the wheel very slowly to ensure that the sensors have enough clearance with the rotating toothed gear. You should be good to go!!

When I got my 95 the anti-locks would come on at 5 mph while stopping. The fix you mentioned above fixed my problem. I was going to get the codes read at an independent repair shop. However, I forgot about the apointment and saved myself the 25.00 they wanted (which would of been a good price). Call around, ask around for a shop that can

During vacation last summer, I had both my brake light and ABS light come on. The cause was leaky rear wheel cylinders. I had replaced my rear shoes and then the rear wheel cylinders started leaking. When I got home, I replaced the cylinders, and shoes once again. All is fine.

One test that you can do is measure the resistance of each wheel sensor. Using a digital volt OHM meter, the front sensors shouldn't be greater than 2200-2500 and the rear not greater than 2500-2900. If these test good measure the wires back to the control for continuity. If they are good your control may be bad.
Regards

Dan

[aviacionlight]

hi, someone knows the voltage on the parking brake switch on 2001 model
w/ key on my indicates 1.06 volts could be that the problem for the brake light on?

Thanks.

[aviacionlight]

Originally Posted by debian4life

Thanks Wis and Dexter, I will try these and let you know how they work.

Hi debian4life do you fix your problem?

[debian4life]

Still not working. Only other noticeable issue is that the drivers side rear tire when spinning makes a whirring/clicking sound from the ABS sensor and "gear wheel" that it connects with. Is this normal or is that a sign of a bad sensor?

[Rrey199]

Just went through this.

The "gear " is the exciter ring. The ring should not come in contact with the sensor. The teeth pass by the sensor and cause a small magnetic pulse that is picked up by the computer. The computer calculates the speed of the 4 whhels and if one sends a different pulse during braking, the comp thinks that wheel is skidding and kicks in the ABS.

My problem was a broken ring on the driver's side. I replaced the shaft and all is ok now.

In addition to the good info the guys gave you, check each exciter ring. The fronts you can crawl under & see but the backs need the drums removed to check.

The backs are about 3 times as thick as the fronts, so much less prone to cracking & they are inside the drum. The fronts are thinner & exposed to the elements. If one is broken , it's probably in the front.

Please let the board know how it turns out.

Every gearhead needs closure.

[wiswind]

During my anual brake inspection, I spray down the exciter ring, etc with brake parts cleaner and inspect things.
Brake dust builds up on the exciter ring....and give moisture a place to be.