Intermediate Shaft Steering Clunk

[Diesel Pete]

Originally Posted by 02RADO

Anyone had the dealer tell you the intermediate shaft clunk of the steering can be fixed with grease?
Is this normal??


Thanks in Advance

02 silverado 4.8

Noise from Steering at Low Speeds #PI00299 - (07/30/2002)
Noise from Steering at Low Speeds
.When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms.

Condition/Concern:
Rattle, noise emanating from the steering column, particularly during low speed parking lot maneuvers.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Verify noise is from stub shaft bearing area.
Replace stub shaft bearing with kit part number 26099860.
Also, a special tool is required to complete the repair. You must use Essential Tool J-45798 to avoid damage to the bearing seal. The repair procedures are available in SI (Service Information) to install the new bearing


Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt In the steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) #00-02-35-003B - (01/24/2003)
Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2003 GMC Sierra

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

2003 HUMMER H2

With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

This bulletin is being revised to add model years and models and Correction information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003A (Section 02 -- Steering).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Correction

Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns

26085548
26049343
26083324
26088325
15772436
26078079

Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below.

Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.



From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.



From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.




Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.



Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.



Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.



Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.



Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 10-12 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.



Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.



Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.



Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m(35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

26098419
Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft
1

It's not only the older models l have a 2006 Chev 2500hd and the same thing in the steering, mostly when l turn to the left you can feel and hear the clunk

[burbahoe]

I just bought a 2001 Suburban that was doing this and after reading a couple of these threads I decided to try a short cut. I took out the lower bolt (under the hood), retracted the ISS toward the firewall and sprayed some WD-40 up into the shaft splines using the little red extension tube. I cycled the shaft five or six times by hand and then re-assembled. That was two weeks ago and my noise is gone with no return. I figure a can of WD-40 is about three bucks so I can buy about 30 cans for the price of one steering shaft. May not work for everyone, but it' s the best 2 minutes I ever put into a car.

[ukrkoz]

hello

i have question to those who replaced the shaft themselves.
ok, i have attempted this job once last year, relying on haynes manual. their directions turned out to be bogus. they said "losen 2 bolts, one at the gear box, one at the intermediate shaft, and slide shaft off" which is impossible to do, as shaft is backed by another shaft that comes out of firewall.

anyways, i have 2000 silverado. i read the post and it appears that shaft to be replaced is not the lower intemediate shaft, but the upper intermediate shaft. one that goes into firewall.
my assumption is, as i am dead fed up with that clunk, and it gets only worse (77K miles), that i have to remove a plastic panel that covers steering column; find upper intermediate to steering shaft nut or bolt; remove it; remove nut that connects upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft; slide shaft off steering column shaft and slide it off the lower shaft, pulling it out through the firewall, into the passenger compartment.
if this is correct, i have question: well, i have just picked under the hood, and there is no way the shafts will slide up or down for more than 1/8 of an inch. upper shaft is backed against the lower shaft, and lower shaft is backed against the steering gear box. there're no gaps for any "slide".

so, if you have done this before, please, let me know what am i missing? is the shafts assembly sliding UP into the dashboard on steering column splines so that it can come off the gear box and then be removed off steering shaft??

i have 3 days off coming, so it'd have been nice to have advice on this. also, making sure - it's the upper shaft that needs to be replaced, not the bottom one? as i tried to fix this last year and dealership told me that they are selling LOWER shafts mostly.

[Art's Auto]

Originally Posted by ukrkoz

hello

i have question to those who replaced the shaft themselves.
ok, i have attempted this job once last year, relying on haynes manual. their directions turned out to be bogus. they said "losen 2 bolts, one at the gear box, one at the intermediate shaft, and slide shaft off" which is impossible to do, as shaft is backed by another shaft that comes out of firewall.

anyways, i have 2000 silverado. i read the post and it appears that shaft to be replaced is not the lower intemediate shaft, but the upper intermediate shaft. one that goes into firewall.
my assumption is, as i am dead fed up with that clunk, and it gets only worse (77K miles), that i have to remove a plastic panel that covers steering column; find upper intermediate to steering shaft nut or bolt; remove it; remove nut that connects upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft; slide shaft off steering column shaft and slide it off the lower shaft, pulling it out through the firewall, into the passenger compartment.
if this is correct, i have question: well, i have just picked under the hood, and there is no way the shafts will slide up or down for more than 1/8 of an inch. upper shaft is backed against the lower shaft, and lower shaft is backed against the steering gear box. there're no gaps for any "slide".

so, if you have done this before, please, let me know what am i missing? is the shafts assembly sliding UP into the dashboard on steering column splines so that it can come off the gear box and then be removed off steering shaft??

i have 3 days off coming, so it'd have been nice to have advice on this. also, making sure - it's the upper shaft that needs to be replaced, not the bottom one? as i tried to fix this last year and dealership told me that they are selling LOWER shafts mostly.

I replaced this shaft almost a year ago, and the fix is still working. There are only two bolts to remove - the lower one is under the hood about half way down the steering shaft assembly. The upper one is on the other side of the firewall under the dash. Both bolts are easy to see. You'll need to remove the throttle pedal (two bolts - easy) to get at the upper one. This intermediate shaft does compress enough to remove it - yours must be stuck (dried grease?). You'll need to bang on the intermediate shaft maybe? It WILL move and compress after you undo the lower bolt!. From a post I made last year: "I had this same problem on my '03 Silverado. Removing and replacing the shaft is very easy - if you don't mind laying on your back under the dash to get at the bolt on one end and bending over the fender to get at the bolt on the other end. The book says you need to remove the throttle pedal first (which I did - two nuts and it pulls out). The whole thing is really pretty easy. Just be sure to lock the steering wheel so you don't get things mis-aligned. "Stroking" the old one had no effect. Adding grease worked for a week or two. The new shaft has worked great for several months - I've almost forgotten about the whole thing! I purchased the new shaft in April."

[ukrkoz]

Originally Posted by Art's Auto

I replaced this shaft almost a year ago, and the fix is still working. There are only two bolts to remove - the lower one is under the hood about half way down the steering shaft assembly. The upper one is on the other side of the firewall under the dash. Both bolts are easy to see. You'll need to remove the throttle pedal (two bolts - easy) to get at the upper one. This intermediate shaft does compress enough to remove it - yours must be stuck (dried grease?). "

as a matter of fact, i saw your post. appreciate response, thank you.
just to set my ducks in a row:
1. remove plastic panel to access steering shaft
2. possibly, remove 2 bolts holding gas pedal in place. i've seen a post stating that that was not necessary
3. remove in dash intermediate shaft to steering shaft pinch bolt
4. remove, under the hood, upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft bolt (mine has 2 shafts, one coming out of firewall and one attached to steering gear; that one looks like it has 2 "harmonicas" on either end, probably designed to collapse during head on collision; solid metal); they are connected together and there's a bolt securing connection, about midway from firewall to steering gear.
5. from under the dashboard, press intermediate shaft down on steering shaft, to slide it off it; i am assuming that there's some sort of compressing structure in it that permits so, as it will not slide down the lower intermediate shaft, it's 100%, i know from my 1st attempt. i never tried to remove the upper sshaft, as, like i said, dealer sold me lower one as "the most popular one". i have no idea if the upper one is stuck, never had my hands on it.
6. slide intermediate shaft off the lower intermediate shaft and remove it into the cabin.

did i get it right? will be fun to do, considering that i'm 6'5''. 'ts ok, that clunk became a solid "pebble in the shoe".

[Art's Auto]

Originally Posted by ukrkoz

as a matter of fact, i saw your post. appreciate response, thank you.
just to set my ducks in a row:
1. remove plastic panel to access steering shaft
2. possibly, remove 2 bolts holding gas pedal in place. i've seen a post stating that that was not necessary
3. remove in dash intermediate shaft to steering shaft pinch bolt
4. remove, under the hood, upper intermediate shaft to lower intermediate shaft bolt (mine has 2 shafts, one coming out of firewall and one attached to steering gear; that one looks like it has 2 "harmonicas" on either end, probably designed to collapse during head on collision; solid metal); they are connected together and there's a bolt securing connection, about midway from firewall to steering gear.
5. from under the dashboard, press intermediate shaft down on steering shaft, to slide it off it; i am assuming that there's some sort of compressing structure in it that permits so, as it will not slide down the lower intermediate shaft, it's 100%, i know from my 1st attempt. i never tried to remove the upper sshaft, as, like i said, dealer sold me lower one as "the most popular one". i have no idea if the upper one is stuck, never had my hands on it.
6. slide intermediate shaft off the lower intermediate shaft and remove it into the cabin.

did i get it right? will be fun to do, considering that i'm 6'5''. 'ts ok, that clunk became a solid "pebble in the shoe".

1) - I don't remember having to remove any plastic panels (I assume you mean inside the cab) - I could see the upper bolt without removing anything. I just looked - underneath the dash at the firewall, you'll see a small u-joint and then the bolt you need to undo.
2) - 2 bolts for the gas pedal - you might get away without doing this, but it was so easy, I did it anyway.
3) - yep - that's the bolt just inside the upper intermediate shaft u-joint
4) - yep - the bolt you want under the hood is just above the upper bellow shaped part of the lower shaft.
5) - I found it easier to unbolt the lower bolt, push upwards on the intermediate shaft 'til it clears, and then unbolt the upper bolt inside the cab. I'd be pretty sure it's the upper (intermediate) shaft that you want to replace - it's the one that's causing all the "clunking" problems. This shaft has a sliding splined shaft inside a cylinder that moves in and out. This is how your steering wheel can remain in place while the front suspension goes over bumps. It moves enough to clear so it can be removed. If yours is too stiff to move, it's probably why you're getting the clunking. You may need to force it.
6) - I pulled mine out through the firewall from under the hood - I think it's easier.
My truck is an '03 4x4 1500 - yours could be different...
Good luck! Art

[ukrkoz]

Originally Posted by Art's Auto

1) - I don't remember having to remove any plastic panels (I assume you mean inside the cab) - I could see the upper bolt without removing anything. I just looked - underneath the dash at the firewall, you'll see a small u-joint and then the bolt you need to undo.
2) - 2 bolts for the gas pedal - you might get away without doing this, but it was so easy, I did it anyway.
3) - yep - that's the bolt just inside the upper intermediate shaft u-joint
4) - yep - the bolt you want under the hood is just above the upper bellow shaped part of the lower shaft.
5) - I found it easier to unbolt the lower bolt, push upwards on the intermediate shaft 'til it clears, and then unbolt the upper bolt inside the cab. I'd be pretty sure it's the upper (intermediate) shaft that you want to replace - it's the one that's causing all the "clunking" problems. This shaft has a sliding splined shaft inside a cylinder that moves in and out. This is how your steering wheel can remain in place while the front suspension goes over bumps. It moves enough to clear so it can be removed. If yours is too stiff to move, it's probably why you're getting the clunking. You may need to force it.
6) - I pulled mine out through the firewall from under the hood - I think it's easier.
My truck is an '03 4x4 1500 - yours could be different...
Good luck! Art

thank you Art. how can i return the favor?

you see, that's what the forums are for. that's the spirit of camradery.
i don't think we have any difference in design, as there are plenty of complaints for the same clunk on 2006 and 2007 models. obviously, GM does nto give rats ass about this.
well, let them start staring at toyota's tailgate lights next year in the race, maybe then they'll start thinking less about corporate profit and CEOs bonuses and more about designing better vehicles.
this problem is just a tip of the iceberg i have to fix on this "60 years in development american revolution".

anyways, thanks again, friend. i ow u one.

[ukrkoz]

ok, i just found that if you have below 70K miles on your truck, 1999 through present, chevy will replace it for you. the intermediate shaft, not truck. depending on mileage, they "participate" in sharing cost of parts and labor.
too bad for me, as i'm over 70K, but might help other soles with the same clunk.

[ukrkoz]

well, that was the easiest $120 i ever saved to myself.
took around 10 minutes for a rookie job
stealership quated $220
part was $101 after tax

piece has 2 bolts that hold it in place, and 2 couplings. one is like a finger, goes into steering column, right under the dashbord. did not have to remove any pedals, access was nice and easy even for my 6'5 frame. 15mm socket.
2nd bolt secures this shaft to lower intermediate steering shaft inside engine bay.
it was easier to pull shaft into passenger compartment, cardane joint won't let it go out into engine bay through bellow anyway.
i have not noticed any difference between the two parts. none. hopefully i got "improved" version.
so far, clunk is gone.
will get my hands on steering componentry tomorrow. i have now to take care of very scary sidewise shake that happens time to time. nice to have longer weekend.
i am still wondering how flimsy that piece is for such a large vehicle.

[kobarr]

Dealer just replaced mine for the second time, first time they greased it then later replaced it under warranty, but now my 03 has 40k on it and they did it at no charge.

[parkermw]

Dealer just replaced the THIRD one in my 06 2500HD. They must be a dime a dozen.

[alabamacameo]

FYI... Borgenson makes an excellent quality replacement shaft for this application if you want to use a better one. I bought one and am going to install it.
Go to their web site (www.borgenson.com) and look it up. Thanks...

[ZR800]

I replaced this over the weekend on my 05 Duramax. P/N 19153614, $99.36 with Tax. Dealer said he charges $90 for the job.

I was expecting it to be a little easier based on most comments on here, but with the Duramax it is a little tougher to get to the lower bolt. In addition I had a hard time getting the new shaft into the lower shaft. Had to tap the top end from inside the cab with a hammer to get it in all the way so the bolt holes line up.

Less the time it took me to look for the nut for the lower bolt that I dropped, which disappeard somewhere under the truck, overall time was probably about 45 minutes.

So glad I finally got to this. It had been annoying me for about 8 months.

This is a very helpful thread.

[ukrkoz]

Originally Posted by alabamacameo

FYI... Borgenson makes an excellent quality replacement shaft for this application if you want to use a better one. I bought one and am going to install it.
Go to their web site (www.borgenson.com) and look it up. Thanks...

i tried borgensson(link posted) just out of curiosity, and all it is is bunch of re-routes to other sites that sell ISS-s.

i fooled with removed shaft for a while, just trying to figure out how it can possibly clunk. as it's plastic (!!) splines on metal. so, wiggling it sidewise produced no cluncking at all. the only time it'd clunck was when the shaft would completely fold/shorten. then metal hits on metal with loud clunck.
so i developed a feeling that when the front end saggs enough, ISS shortens to the point that metal approximates metal. slam on the brakes or hit a pothole - bang!

[Engineer Spike]

What recall is out for this now? I have a '04 K2500HD, and they replaced the shaft under waranty when the truck was about a year and a half old. They lubed it about a year and a half later. This time they wanted me to pay. I got them to give me service for a year in exchange. Now it is doing it again.
I have 64,000 miles, and I want to know if there is a recall now. Someone said that they will fix it under 60k, but seeing that it has been done twice before, I think that they should. I could do it too, but since it is their poor design, they ought to do it.
I am glad that I have found this forum. Now I know how widespread this problem is.