|
|
| Search | Car Forums | Gallery | Articles | Helper | Air Dried Beef Dog Food | IgorSushko.com | Corporate |
|
|||||||
| Off-Topic Talk about anything other than cars. |
![]() |
Show Printable Version |
Subscribe to this Thread
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Reverse problem
Alright well I've been having this developing tranny issue...While the car is running I usually have to put it in 3rd first and then slide it in reverse or reverse will grind...Well recently it's been becomming more and more difficult to put it in 3rd first before getting it in reverse. Now...you have to really push it hard to get it in 3rd but when regularly shifting from 2nd-3rd while moving its fine. It only gives me problem when sitting still trying to back up though. First of all what causes this grinding in reverse and second why is 3rd becomming so hard to engage?
-Also when the car is off...you can shift through the gears beautifully without a problem. THanks
__________________
![]() 05 Srt4 Agp 3147 w/supporting mods ![]() 97 Mx-5 T28, hks man, ebay int/pipes, rfl bov, xtd 6 puck, 3" magnaflow, msd timing box, |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
~Alright update~ I researched and found that it is better to line up the gears by using first and it works so there goes my problem.
So instead of that problem I have one other question. I just noticed that when the local car shop replaced my passenger side cv joint(which was busted) the one they replaced it by is 2 times larger than the factory one(the boot). And it is about 1-2mm from touching the bolt below it. Could this be a rubbing issue of any sort? Because it appears they loaded it up with a bunch of grease to keep it from rubbing. Will this be a problem?
__________________
![]() 05 Srt4 Agp 3147 w/supporting mods ![]() 97 Mx-5 T28, hks man, ebay int/pipes, rfl bov, xtd 6 puck, 3" magnaflow, msd timing box, |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Reverse problem
I just heard a good test for the reverse brake, recomended by John Sheperd to a local club member. If you hold the clutch in for a good 10 seconds, then try to put it in reverse:
-If it works fine, it's probably a bad reverse brake. -If it still grinds, it's most likely a clutch disengagement issue. Try that, hope it helps. Also, for the archives, John's latest recomendation for manual tranny fluid for DSMs is 1 quart of Redline Shockproof Heavy, and the rest Penzoil Synchromesh. For EVOs, straight Penzoil.
__________________
Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Re: Reverse problem
Quote:
|
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Reverse problem
Tranny fluid has nothing to do with the engine. Drain old fluid, fill with new fluid, drive it on.
__________________
Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Reverse problem
I just happened to order 3 quarts of Redline Heavy from summit. I live here in western NY and it does get pretty cold here in the winter. You think I would have to change it out for winter? Just reading a few things on tuners and have mixed feelings.
__________________
Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031
|
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Re: Reverse problem
Quote:
so what i've been doing; trying to put it in reverse all nice like, if it blocks it i go into 5th, and then back into reverse. works like a charm always. fyi new clutch here and reserfaced fly wheel. never tryed to hold in clutch for like 10 secs before trying to shift will do that next time i think of it. its tough because it doesn't do it all the time. and its a pain in the ass because i have to back out of my driveway every time so i don't scrape. there is NO WAY possiable of pulling out forward and not scraping. tryed ever angle i could. my questions: wtf is a reverse break?????? would changing out my tranny fluid help?
__________________
![]() Something new is coming... |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Reverse problem
I used to run straight 85-90 gear oil in the winter in MA, was a little stiff for the first few miles but no problem. The penzoil is quite thin, like BG, so with only one quart of the Heavy, I doubt you will have any trouble in cold weather.
The reverse brake is there to stop the input shaft, since there is no synchro on reverse, if I understand things correctly. If you look at a tranny and note how reverse engages you'll see why a brake is necessary. Changing fluid could affect its performance I suppose.
__________________
Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Reverse problem
Well after summit shipped me 3 qts of B&M Synthetic Auto tranny fluid, I called them and told them i ordered 3 qts of Redline heavy. He told me to keep the B&M...Anyway I just got the Redline today. I used 1 qt redline, the rest pennzoil synchromesh. I noticed a huge difference the first time i ran straight pennzoil, but with the redline it made shifting smoother, not a whole lot, but enough to notice the difference. I also noticed my 1st to 2nd was slightly less notchy.
Looks like this is the combo I will use in my tranny from now on.
__________________
Tim 1990 Talon AWD 2.3 stroker, 8.8 wiseco, FIC 750's, DSMLink, PTE SCM5031
|
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
Re: Reverse problem
Keep in mind that the heavy oil is not to improve shifting. In fact it more likely makes it worse. IT is there because when people run straight synchromesh oils that are lighter, there is a lot more wear in the tranny.
__________________
Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
|
![]() |
POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD |
![]() |
|
|