Rear Window Defogger

[DavidM2]

I had the same problem the my 1999 GLS. Luckly for me it failed under warranty and after the seconf trip to the dealer they replaced the Module. I believe it was under the head liner in roof of the car.

[mrlsle]

I found a fairly complete, inexpensive repair manual to be the Haynes 38026. I use it for troubleshooting and repairs.
It costs about $20 at parts stores in Ontario Canada.

[mlauer_98]

You can find GM parts 22618677 and 15305949 for about half the list price at gmpartsdirect.com. The module is about $55 and the connector is about $13. Please post any cheaper prices if you find them. I am having the same problem with my 2000 Alero. I had the module replaced under warranty but it went out again.

[SteveR...]

Originally Posted by mlauer_98

You can find GM parts 22618677 and 15305949 for about half the list price at gmpartsdirect.com. The module is about $55 and the connector is about $13. Please post any cheaper prices if you find them. I am having the same problem with my 2000 Alero. I had the module replaced under warranty but it went out again.

The problem is the connection, not the module. The connector can't handle the amps being put through it, and it overheats. Solder the wires to the terminals in the module instead of using the connector, and you won't have this problem again.

There is no cost if you already have a soldering iron. If you don't, go buy a good adjustable one for $50 and you'll still save $30, and you won't have this recurring problem. Use heat-shrink tubing or a couple of coats of "Liquid Electric Tape", NOT normal electric tape, that stuff is crap, and should only be used in temporary connections.

[mlauer_98]

Thanks. I'll give that a try. I already have a soldering iron so maybe I can fix it for nothing.

[mlauer_98]

Originally Posted by SteveR...

The problem is the connection, not the module. The connector can't handle the amps being put through it, and it overheats. Solder the wires to the terminals in the module instead of using the connector, and you won't have this problem again.

There is no cost if you already have a soldering iron. If you don't, go buy a good adjustable one for $50 and you'll still save $30, and you won't have this recurring problem. Use heat-shrink tubing or a couple of coats of "Liquid Electric Tape", NOT normal electric tape, that stuff is crap, and should only be used in temporary connections.

SteveR -
I clipped the half-melted connector from the wires and soldered them directly to the module, as you said, and it works perfectly! Finally I have rear defrost again. I also used heat shrink tubing for the first time and will never go back to electrical tape. Thanks for all your help, I really appreciate it.

[SteveR...]

You shouldn't have any more problems with it.

As for heat shrink tubing, if you ever want to make a good water-tight connection, use heat shrink tubing and liquid electric tape. Coat the soldered connection with liquid electric tape, then slip the tubing over the connection and shrink it befor ethe liquid electric tape cures. It produces a very tough water-tight electrical connection. I'll usually use two layers of heat shrink, shrinking them one at a time. Makes a connection that is stronger than the original wire.

[mo42oya]

I had the same issue with the rear defrost. The Dealer had charged my $110 to replace the Defrost/Radio module. After 11 months I started smelling a burning plastic odor. This Really freaked me out! I would always spazz and start to sniff everything, but I could never find it. Once morning I noticed the defrost wasn't working. So I changed the relay without any results. So I Bought a big Torx Fitting for my ratchet and then removed the Passenger side seat belt. Then use a tiny flat head screw driver to pull out the center of the hanger hook. As soon as it is free the hook will drop down. Everything will pop off just Pull. Some of the plastic clasps might break but try not to break too many. Disconnect the module and then unmount it from the vehicle. The connector will be Unusable. Just cut off the connector. Use a knife to cut the corners of the module only one side. Fold it over and you will see the two male prongs. Solder heavy gage wire onto each of the two prongs. Use the old connector to reference which wire connects to each prong. Close up the module with Super glue or Black Tape. Reinstall it in the vehicle. Strip the wires from the module and the vehicle. DO NOT BLACK TAPE THESE CONNECTIONS. Instead use butt connectors. That should solve the issue.

Here are some images. If no images then HTML is disabled so just copy and paste the address

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Now I just have the problem of my car stalling and not starting. What junk. lol