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#1
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Hi all... been a while.....cause car is runnin pretty good...
I just got my Prothane motor mount inserts I did a search on the inserts and found half of my answer.... I recieved 4 smaller inserts that just go into each side of the front and rear mounts.... looks easy enough.. my question is there are four larger ones, two are a little bigger and two are a little smaller... they are round/cylinder like and I assume these go on the mount just behind the PS reservoir...yes? I saw the link/post for the front and rear install w/pics but nothing for the other ones.... Anyone know of any install links w/pics? Thanks in advance!!!!
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"A man's greatest work is to break his enemies, to drive them before him, to take from them all the things that have been theirs." -Ghengis Khan |
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#2
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Re: Motor mounts
the bigger round ones are for the motor mount itself, the smaller round ones are for the tranny mount...the inserts are for the front and rear roll stoppes.....the easiest of all these to install would be the front roll stopper inserts...the motor mount is also a piece of cake, but the rear roll stopper is a HUGE PAIN IN THE ASS because you have to remove the battery/tray, part of the UICP, (and i think some other stuff), but after that, you have to find a way to get your hands down in there with a (14mm socket i believe? maybe it's 17) and lossen the through bolt, and the bolts that actually hold the mount to the crossmember, THEN you have to find a way to get it up and above the shift cables that come straight out of the firewall....after all that is said and done, put the inserts in, and you have to find a way to get this damn thing back in there and alinged to put the bolts back in...took me around 2 hours cause it was such a bitch.....the tranny mount is a little difficult too because you have to jack up the tranny a bit (make sure you use a piece of wood on top the jack)...jacking the tranny up relieves the pressure on the mount through-bolt so you can unscrew it and take it out, then take out the other bolts, then find a way to get that damn mount out, lowering the tranny helps a little....also, you have to jack up the engine when you're working on the mount behind the PS to relieve the stress on the through bolt....what i did was used a 3 1/2 ton jack with a block of wood on top, and jacked up the oil pan slightly....be gentle with the oil pan, you don't want any dings or dents in it......after getting all the mounts in, you'll notice your car vibrates some...this is because (i'm pretty sure) all the vibration from the motor is being transmitted back into the cabin, so your motor won't shake as much anymore. if i mis-spelled anything or missed something, i'm sorry because i'm kind of in a hurry...hope this helps you man
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#3
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Re: Motor mounts
yup it helps.... but I like pictures!!!!!!!! lol
As for vibration...my exhaust does that enough along with my sub/amp and the new eminem CD!!!!! ![]() Oh yeah...is yours an auto or manny?
__________________
"A man's greatest work is to break his enemies, to drive them before him, to take from them all the things that have been theirs." -Ghengis Khan |
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#4
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Re: Motor mounts
To add to 97GSTs post. A ratcheting box end 17mm works the tits for getting out that rear mount. Also be wary of the speed sensor that comes up through the middle of it (2g only). The two big ones for the timingeblt side mount and the tranny side mount should be self explanatory as far as install/removal. The key to making life easy here is to take the two mounts to the machine shop to have the old metal sleeve/rubber insert pressed out (about 10 bucks). Then install the new ones with a vice or a mallet.
Modern Marvels just started, and its about dragsters, gotta go
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#5
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Re: Motor mounts
word i just changed the channel
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#6
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Re: Motor mounts
Commercial break... Couple DSMs, didn't see any fast ones yet though.
__________________
Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#7
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Re: Motor mounts
Do you recommend doing all mounts at once? or one at a time?
__________________
"A man's greatest work is to break his enemies, to drive them before him, to take from them all the things that have been theirs." -Ghengis Khan |
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#8
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Re: Motor mounts
Do one at a time unless you have the motor out. OR if youre lazy like me, do the front/rear during a clutch swap, then wait 2-3 years before finally working up the motivation to do the sides during a motor swap
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#9
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Re: Motor mounts
LOL!! Is it possible to push/press the old pieces/side mounts my self?... I was thinking along the lines of a pulley puller with a round piece just a bit smaller than the ID of the mount as the pusher.
What does it mean if the rubber pieces on the driverside mount are loose and wiggly? they don't spin but there is a lot of slop... I assume bad/shot...i'm probably right but.....he he
__________________
"A man's greatest work is to break his enemies, to drive them before him, to take from them all the things that have been theirs." -Ghengis Khan |
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#10
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Re: Motor mounts
There should be a little movement since there are slots cut into the rubber (to allow movement only in the desired direction), but they should be quite stiff. There is no way to get those inserts out at home short of burning out all the rubber with a torch, and finding some way to cut the sleeve so you can drive that out. It really is best to just take it to a machine shop and pay the 10 bucks. They just toss it on a ~20 ton press with the right dies and drive that POS out in 10 seconds. It is possible to crack the mount though, but I have only seen that happen on one mount out of the 3-4 sets I've had done.
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#11
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Re: Motor mounts
if you car is pretty much stock you can get rid of wheel hop for the most part by getting better tires and a suspension. i had tons of wheel hop on my stock GST, but it was because the suspension was set up wrong, and the tires were bad. after fixing both it went away.
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#12
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Re: Motor mounts
My suspension is still nice and tight.... The fr. &rr mounts are really dry and cracked....
My tires are pretty good....when it's warm/hot out I have nuttin but GRIP and no hop
__________________
"A man's greatest work is to break his enemies, to drive them before him, to take from them all the things that have been theirs." -Ghengis Khan |
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