20g turbo or t3/t4 turbo for 92 eclipse GS?

[92eclipse92]

what up AF,

need your expert opinion.
i want to but turbo for my 92 eclipse gs
dont know that to get should i get a
20g turbo or t3/t4 turbo?
or any other suggestion.
thanks!

-92eclipse92-

[MB38]

How much research have you done into turboing your NA? Speaking in general, not about your specific car, NAs have substantially higher compression ratios. If you try and run a ridiculous amount of boost through it without working the internals and adding a spacer of some kind, you'll fry your pistons, bust through your crank case and blow off your manifold.

AKA bad.

[this is speaking, again, in general. In most cases, these turbos would be too much for a NA car. The eclipse may be different]

[RockinWRX]

For the NT motor , I would recommend no bigger than a T25. T3/T04 is a 600 Hp turbo (depending on setup and trim) on a turbo engine application. It would blow the rings out on the NT motors iron pistons and shatter the pistons thru detonation. Actually , go for it. One less GS on the road would be an awesome thing.

[turbo2nr]

it probably would be cheaper to sell the gs and look for a gsx gst or tsi and go form there..

1

[Talon007]

A T25 or a 13B off a 1G TSi auto would be fine

[RockinWRX]

Originally posted by turbo2nr
it probably would be cheaper to sell the gs and look for a gsx gst or tsi and go form there..

1

For those on a budget its not really an option. And its hard to sell a base model DSM , unlees you live near a highschool and throw a wing and a body kit on it and cruise it a few times. Its possible to turbo an engine without doing much to the ECU setup , but you have to be careful. You have to know exactly what you are doing , or it will get screwed up. Switching to bigger NT-style injectors , hacking the MAF , installing a S-AFC , and a bigger FP are just a few of the things you have to do.

[92eclipse92]

how much hp im gonna get on t25?
if im gonna change my motor i can use 20g ot t3/t4?
pls guide me i dont know anything about engine
and also i want to change my tranny right now i got auto tranny
i want to change it to manual. how do i do that? i mean change the whole engine or just the tranny.

[turbo2nr]

ok with the current motor you cannot boost alot of psi. b\c of the weak internals. i would say 8psi max on standard internals..
that should be good for 220hp.. the t-25 tops out around 15psi.. but you will never se that much boost on stock internals unless you want to blow up the motor.. the t-25 or the 13b is also a good choice.. i think the 13b you can boost a little more then the t-25 ..

but with stock internals and no supporting mods only expect 220hp most from a turbo gs....

good luck

1

[RockinWRX]

Originally posted by 92eclipse92
how much hp im gonna get on t25?
if im gonna change my motor i can use 20g ot t3/t4?
pls guide me i dont know anything about engine
and also i want to change my tranny right now i got auto tranny
i want to change it to manual. how do i do that? i mean change the whole engine or just the tranny.

Simply swap in a manual tranny , remove the tranny computer , and attach a clutch pedal under the dash. You may have to swap the complete auto pedal assembly for a manual pedal setup. It gets a bit complicated , but its possible.

[GaLaNt_DOHC_89]

Drop a 4g63t in your car and then upgrade to a 20g. You can get around 525hp with it. Go to www.car-part.com and do a search for the motor. You can find one for a decent price. Just my opinion though. Good luck with what you decide.

[Talon007]

Originally posted by turbo2nr
ok with the current motor you cannot boost alot of psi. b\c of the weak internals. i would say 8psi max on standard internals..
that should be good for 220hp.. the t-25 tops out around 15psi.. but you will never se that much boost on stock internals unless you want to blow up the motor.. the t-25 or the 13b is also a good choice.. i think the 13b you can boost a little more then the t-25 ..

but with stock internals and no supporting mods only expect 220hp most from a turbo gs....

good luck

1

8psi would not make 220 hp, considering a stock 1G runs 10.7psi and 195 HP Plus 8 is too much anyways, I'd keep it at 5 or less

Get the 20G and T3/T4 idea out of your head, think rational here, there are many things to do before you slap on a big turbo.

[RockinWRX]

Originally posted by Talon007


8psi would not make 220 hp, considering a stock 1G runs 10.7psi and 195 HP Plus 8 is too much anyways, I'd keep it at 5 or less

Get the 20G and T3/T4 idea out of your head, think rational here, there are many things to do before you slap on a big turbo.

Most NT motors can take about 8 psi boost , or double the original out put , whichever comes first. The newer engines with the " compressed powdered metal " con rods ( Zetec anyone ? ) can take about 4 psi. Most Honda engines can take 8 - 10 psi , especially the B16 , B18 and H22. 6 - 8 psi is a general good rule of thumb for NT motors. Remember 10 - 11 Hp per psi . It also depends if he has the 90 hp 1.8 liter engine , or the 135 Hp 2.0 NT 4G63. Turboing the NT 4G63 to 8 psi should net him about 223 Hp . Not bad , but thats pretty much its limit.

[Sluttypatton]

I don't want to knit pick here but I wanted to dispell an idea that has been running rampant for a long time, it involves cutting compression ratio and the manner it is done. MB38 (don't mean to pick on you, your just the first person I saw make the comment) posted

If you try and run a ridiculous amount of boost through it without working the internals and adding a spacer of some kind, you'll fry your pistons

Regarding the cutting of compression ratio, Corky Bell said it better than I ever can

CHANGING A COMPRESSION RATIO. A variety of methods exist to change a compression ratio. Almost all are unacceptable. The crux of the matter is upsetting the "squish volume" around the rim of the chamber. A chamber is designed so that the charge is pushed toward its center as the piston achieves top dead center. This is perhaps the strongest deterrent to detonation designed into the system, as it tends to either eliminate end gas or keep charge turbulence high This squish volume is a rim about .3 to .4 inch wide around the chamber, an approximately .04 thick-a big, washer-shaped volume between piston an head. Consider "squish volume" sacred and do not tamper. It is possible to err so badly in removing the squish that a resulting 7-to-l compression ratio may ping worse than a 9-to-l with proper squish. Clearly then, choices for reducing compression ratio are limited to opening up selected parts of the head side on the chamber, installing a new piston with a dish in the center, or remachining the original piston to create a dish. It is perhaps a little risky to undertake remachining a combustion chamber, because the thickness of the material is usually unknown. Furthermore, chamber shapes are closely controlled features of most modern engines. If the chamber must be recut, ultrasonic inspection can determine the material thickness. Commercial inspection service companies frequently offer this service. An entirely new piston, with the required dish that maintains the squish volume, is a proper approach. Machining a dish into the original piston is sound, provided the top thickness is adequate. A reasonable rule would require the top thickness to be at least 6% of the bore. Approaches to lowering the compression ratio that do not work are thicker head gaskets and shorter connecting rods.

Clearly it is not ok to add a spacer or thicker head gasket to the head and call it a day, as it upsets this "squish volume" and leads to a detonation prone engine.

[RockinWRX]

Originally posted by Sluttypatton
I don't want to knit pick here but I wanted to dispell an idea that has been running rampant for a long time, it involves cutting compression ratio and the manner it is done. MB38 (don't mean to pick on you, your just the first person I saw make the comment) posted Clearly it is not ok to add a spacer or thicker head gasket to the head and call it a day, as it upsets this "squish volume" and leads to a detonation prone engine.

Absolutely. And the 4G63's squish design in particular is its best feature. I know this isn't a 4G63 we are talking about , I'm just pointing that out. I also don't recommend lowering compression in that manner , because thicker HG's are known to blow much easier. Lowering compression in turn requires more boost and creates further "lag". I'd rather have a 9.0:1 compression motor and run 8 psi boost , than have a 7.0:1 motor and run 12 - 15 psi. WHY? Low end torque. Thats why a popular mod is 2G pistons on 1G "big" rods in the 1G's 6-bolt engine , it improves low end torque dramatically and requires less boost to reach the same Hp levels.

[Talon007]

But in theory you can run more boost on the lower compression pistons